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Kona PremSe64k 2020+bluelink +ohme
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Discussion Starter #1
For the second time our 12v battery failed. I know the reason why, which was our grandson was switching the engine off/on several times over the afternoon whilst we watched airplanes at East Midlands Airport. We just hadn't appreciated that switching the "engine" off/on along with using climate control was such drain. The AA came out and jump started us, so that was fine.

The reason I am posting this is because we were sat in the car and relays started clicking, persistently. Presumably as the 12v went flat the respective relay(s) couldn't switch properly and kept retrying. I recorded the whole thing. SO if you will excuse my wife becoming impatient with me here is that recording...

Kona EV relay clicking audio file

I've made it available from my google drive because SpeakEv won't allow me to upload it directly.

What you should listen for is the persistent clicking noise of relays attempting to switch - and failing. I have no idea what relay(s) were clicking in. At the time we were just sat in the front seats.

My apologies for the voice over. I tried to filter the voices, but failed. So here it is in all its gory. (If someone can remove the voice for me that would be great - I would happily repost.)

Given the Kona fires, my question is, is this perhaps related to the fires. Could all these cars burning out be caused by 12v failures, during which some relays kick into action time and time again, until something bad happens.
 

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Yes, when the battery is flat I also heard clicking as if contactor couldn't switch properly and kept re-trying. But after a few attempts that also stops and the car appears properly dead :)
Other signs: indicators flash frantically, weird messages on dash (eg. no key present), etc
 

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Kona PremSe64k 2020+bluelink +ohme
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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, when the battery is flat I also heard clicking as if contactor couldn't switch properly and kept re-trying. But after a few attempts that also stops and the car appears properly dead :)
Other signs: indicators flash frantically, weird messages on dash (eg. no key present), etc
Yes, my grandson had put the interior lights on also and I saw these fade in the last minute or so.
 

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Strange that Ignition ON mode in Kona EV (pressing Start button without depressing brake pedal) means very quick drain of the 12V battery.
It actually equals "ignition ON" mode on an ICE vehicle.

Seems that EVs, too, should be fully started (with brake pedal depressed), or put in Utility mode.
 

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Kia Soul EV 2020
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@CicloByron It took me a second to orient that image :unsure: Now my monitor is upside-down. :p
 

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I have one and have used it several times in the last few days because my battery is toast. Will say you only get one go, connect it start the car and disconnect, when you do it will be down to one light and will need charging before you can use again. It does not take that long to charge though. It will charge from one of the usb ports. My lease company has told me not to use it as they can cause other damage causing them extra costs.
 

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For some of us those jump starters are essential :cry:

After my battery was replaced 8 months ago (previous battery also survived 8 months until first failure) I now have had 3 times flat battery for the last 6 days. And this happened just after BMS update (which should improve 12v top-up).
I was also using smart charger to ensure the battery is in good condition - in my case it made absolutely no difference. So we will need to start ping-pong game with Hyundai again: drop the car for tests > no problem found > drive home > drop the car to Hyundai again.

Agrh....
 

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Kona Electric, EU base with heat pump
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No idea why it’s upside down!
On a smart phone it's not a bad idea to "edit" the photo and rotate it (redundantly) 360° to establish what I assume is the metadata regarding orientation.
 

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I have one and have used it several times in the last few days because my battery is toast. Will say you only get one go, connect it start the car and disconnect, when you do it will be down to one light and will need charging before you can use again. It does not take that long to charge though. It will charge from one of the usb ports. My lease company has told me not to use it as they can cause other damage causing them extra costs.
Good to know that you only get one go, I had wondered. If I have to use it I’ll get the 12v changed.
 

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On a smart phone it's not a bad idea to "edit" the photo and rotate it (redundantly) 360° to establish what I assume is the metadata regarding orientation.
I posted the same picture to FB it was the correct way up...I’ll give that a try next time, cheers.
 

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For some of us those jump starters are essential :cry:

After my battery was replaced 8 months ago (previous battery also survived 8 months until first failure) I now have had 3 times flat battery for the last 6 days. And this happened just after BMS update (which should improve 12v top-up).
I was also using smart charger to ensure the battery is in good condition - in my case it made absolutely no difference. So we will need to start ping-pong game with Hyundai again: drop the car for tests > no problem found > drive home > drop the car to Hyundai again.

Agrh....
Sadly it’s probably a case of once the 12v battery discharges low enough it is permanently damaged. I was lucky I was at home and caught mine at 8.4v the only time it failed me, will probably just get through to the two year warranty and then fail!
 

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Sadly it’s probably a case of once the 12v battery discharges low enough it is permanently damaged. I was lucky I was at home and caught mine at 8.4v the only time it failed me, will probably just get through to the two year warranty and then fail!
Yes, I see the same pattern - it seems once battery gets flat it is only a matter of time when it gets flat every week/day.
I wish there was some sensor which disconnects the battery below eg. 10v (like my dashcams: cut power below 12v).
 

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Yes, I see the same pattern - it seems once battery gets flat it is only a matter of time when it gets flat every week/day.
I wish there was some sensor which disconnects the battery below eg. 10v (like my dashcams: cut power below 12v).
There are two issues IMO, whatever is causing the discharge, I feel that’s a process that gets stuck, then there is the issue of damaged batteries once that has happened. Whatever the process is that gets stuck pulls a fair amount of current, sufficient to stop my charger working and can flatten the 12v pretty rapidly.

Yes it would make some sense wouldn’t it, especially knowing that a lead acid battery will fail completely if it’s discharged too low. I’ve seen others suggest that it’s not the correct kind of battery for the application as it doesn’t get the aggressive charging pattern that it would receive in a ICE car.
 

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it doesn’t get the aggressive charging pattern that it would receive in a ICE car.
One of the updates seems to address that as the system now generally runs at a higher voltage - probably 14.5V average from 13.5 before (based on my observations and memory).
 

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I have tried to prevent getting stranded with a flat 12 volt battery, in as many ways as I can.
I have purchased a compact battery booster pack that can start a normal medium sized ICE car six times on one full charge of the pack.
I keep it in the boot of the car at all times.
Also, I have a CTEK smart charger at home that I can give the 12 volt battery a “Top Up” charge about every 6 weeks or so.
It maybe a good idea the install a digital volt meter display that can be plugged into the 12 volt accessory socket.
Then you can constantly monitor the charge state of the 12 volt battery.
Also, try to avoid having the car sitting with 12 volt electrical items running when the car is not fully booted into the ready condition.
 

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Someone suggested earlier that it's a better idea to keep it in the front of the car as it can be hard to open the boot if the battery is dead. So mine's in the box between the seats, but so far unused.
 
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