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Good picture of the voltmeter. Note that when the car is powered up that is showing the voltage from the DC-DC converter, not the battery. Do you get a display with the car powered fully off as that will be the battery itself?
Ideally you want to check the reading before you activate the car at all, so the ideal is to be able to see it from outside which can be hard with tinted windows.
 

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I’ve had what appears to be the same volt meter for a month or so. Very useful to keep an eye on things.

I have found from using it that my 12v battery is nearly always being charged by the car as it reads 14.2v most of the time when driving. I do lots of short trips.

When the car is driving, but not charging the 12v battery, it seems to read around 13.5v.

When first turning on the car it briefly reads 11.8-12v before quickly rising to 14.2v. This seemed low so I put a volt meter on the battery and it read 12.6v with the car off. This maybe shows the plug in meter is not that accurate. But if you know what is “normal” on the display when powering on, hopefully if it differs from this it will be a warning of a true low battery. Also, if the car was never topping up the 12v battery this would be obvious from the meter.

You don’t get a reading when the car is off. The socket only powers on when the car powers on.

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Discussion Starter #23
Don't bother trying to salvage a 12v battery that has been discharged to 3.7 volts, it will be permanently damaged. It's also possible that it has a shorted cell.

Is the cost of not replacing it really worth continuing to do damage to the car ?
I have a new battery on the car.
It was curiosity more than anything to see if it could be charged.
Its going back to the motor factors so I can claim my £10.00 deposit back ?
 

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So Lex Autolease are insisting we replace with a Kia battery (I bet they wouldn't even check!). Kia Ferndown are telling me it's £200. Kia Southampton are saying that's the price of the old part which has been superseded. They have no price for the new part - implying that maybe Kia UK don't have any stock yet. All a bit of a pain. Jump starting from our USB battery once or twice a week now.
 

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So Lex Autolease are insisting we replace with a Kia battery (I bet they wouldn't even check!). Kia Ferndown are telling me it's £200. Kia Southampton are saying that's the price of the old part which has been superseded. They have no price for the new part - implying that maybe Kia UK don't have any stock yet. All a bit of a pain. Jump starting from our USB battery once or twice a week now.
Did you try a trickle charger, Pete?
 

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I have inadvertently run down my aux. battery - I found the charge was down to 40% and I thought the main battery would recharge it in the ON state, so I left it in that state for a couple of hours - wrong! It ran down to zero, and the main battery could not be made to charge.

I put a CTEK trickle charger on the aux. for a couple of hours, and it all came back. Put the main charger back on, and the next morning the aux. was 98%. It seems the car has to be in the RUN state or on the charger for the aux to charge.

Btw: Yuasa YBX3108 £66.52 delivered on eBay.
 

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Just an update on my battery. I took it out the car and it measured 12.7v - fully charged. Left it overnight. 12.75v in the morning, so I don't think the battery is the problem. I've resorted to having the Zappi charge the car for 30 minutes every night in an attempt to prevent the 12v battery going flat. I want to leave it plugged in overnight as we're part of a DSR (Demand Side Response) trial, and the Zappi will start charging the car automatically if there is too much electricity on the grid to help balance it. Was charging at an unusual 4.5kw the other night.
I'm wondering if we don't have a problem in the summer as the car (and hence 12v battery) is regularly charging from spare Solar PV. Obviously winter temperatures are not helping.
Early days yet, but hopefully I will have 'resolved' the problem. At least I don't have to fork out for a new battery.
 

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Just want to update the thread with the following.
The AV head unit not working was due to its own 15 amp fuse also blowing in the cabin fuse board by the steering wheel.
Now the old battery which failed has been taken away by my brother in law to see if it can take a charge and be salvaged. It was reading 3.7 volts.
When connected to his car charger in the garage it blows the fuse on the car charger. Same thing on the second try.
There is therefore a major fault within the battery itself.
Apparently the amps put out by the battery go up as the volts drop down?
I now have a volt meter in the cigarette socket and will keep an eye on any drop in the voltage in the future.
I don't follow the theory that, if the battery volts go down, the current increases. The current flowing depends on the resistance of the circuit (including the internal resistance of the battery). If the volts drop and the resistance remains the same, the battery will supply LESS current.

It is possible that one or more cells of the battery have shorted, greatly reducing the internal resistance of the battery (and, incidentally, reducing that battery's voltage - a shorted cell produces no volts). That would cause the charging device's current to increase, thus blowing its fuse. A well-designed charger would have a form of overcurrent control to prevent this and give a warning - implying that the dc-dc converter in the Soul does not have that, so I suppose we have been warned.
 

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Pete, have you got a link to the jump starter you have been using please? When you jumped it, did you connect the negative to the battery or a ground on the bodywork?

thanks
Not on Amazon anymore, but was 'DBPOWER 300A 8000mAh Portable Mini Car Jump Starter, Emergency Battery Booster Pack, Power Bank with LED Flashlight for Phone Tablet and More, 2.5L Pe'
Connected the negative to the battery. I read that was the best thing to do with an EV. Can't remember why now.
 

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Varta make VRLA batteries in a range of regular automotive sizes. That's what you should really want. Forget CCA and capacity rating, they really are irrelevant for non-cranking applications, you want deep discharge VRLA if you want it to last longer than this one has.

Bear in mind Kia has a 7 year warranty. Go ask them before you spend your own money, though. It isn't really a service item, especially at 3 years.

What form factor size is it? Can't say I have ever bothered to notice on mine before.
Yuasa's battery finder comes up with YBX3108 which appears to physically match what I have fitted. I have clicked around to find a VLRA which matches, without success.
 

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Bog standard wet cell by the looks of it.

I am looking myself for a VRLA in that size and not obvious.

This one would fit Lucas 12V 50AH VRLA AGM Battery Replacement Machine Mart Clarke Jumpstart 4000 | eBay but I'd have to check the securing fitment, these don't come with "B1" type hold-down lips.

Obviously, something like this you have to buy the screw in terminals too. Don't tighten them much, just very light pinch.

TBH, as far as I have monitored vehicle voltage on my Soul, it treats the battery pretty well and a common automotive battery should be OK. YMMV.

Mine is a lease car so I would use nothing other than a bog standard automotive battery. Too many questions with the leaser to deal with if something [completely unrelated, of course] goes wrong.
 
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