Speak EV - Electric Car Forums banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Outlander
Joined
·
5,029 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
There is a lot of inconsistency online about which battery to install in an Ampera, with manufacturers/retailers/garages/recovery companies all recommending different battery specs.

Varta recommends their D52


Tayna sell the Varta D52 for £109


Is that a good pairing for the Ampera?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,902 Posts
I put the bosche in sep 2017 and its lost a cell in the last month. Seems from the lack off failure reports the varta lasts longer.
I'm looking at a lithium replacement due to lack off cranking.
 

·
Ampera aka IGOR
Tesla Model 3 P
Joined
·
3,607 Posts
Bosch here too. GM recommends an AGM type battery as this is designed to be used within the passenger area of a car. The Bosch is not an AGM but it is approved for use within the vehicle.
 

·
Ampera aka IGOR
Tesla Model 3 P
Joined
·
3,607 Posts
I put the bosche in Jan 2017 and its lost a cell in the last month. Seems from the lack off failure reports the varta lasts longer.
I'm looking at a lithium replacement due to lack off cranking.
From what I have read Lithium batteries need a specific charging regime to be kept maintained, something that normal cars (Ampera/Volt included) are not very good at. The reason for using a 'normal' type of battery is that they are readily available and relatively cheap to be replaced as and when required.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,702 Posts
Bosch S5 005 lasted 3 years ok fo me, but swapped it out the moment it showed <12.0V, which may not have been the fault ot the battery. It's now happily working fine in a C1. Replaced it with a Lucas Fusion LF027 AGM one in which seems very happy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
331 Posts
I used a Bosch S5. It's almost always below 12v so got it replaced under warranty because of this. The new one does exactly the same thing (hangs below 12v at idle). Next time I will use an AGM battery, possibly Lucas. It's possible a module on my car isn't powering down properly but as the battery seems to drop below 12v almost immediately after powering down I can't prove this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
when you start to notice that your ampera main lights start to lose power then you can say that 12v battery has low voltage. when you want to buy new battery keep in mind that you do not have a classic ice car with a starter battery , but you have a electric car which uses only traction battery. that battery is called agm 12v battery. it is on a first look the same as starter battery , but on the inside completely different. the most important difference is the voltage. it has a 0,4 volts more voltage vhen fully charged than starter battery. when you have low voltage and then incorrect battery type then weird things start to happen like program bugs , steering wheel modul burn out and many more.
i know because it happened to me. previous owner of my ampera swapped a 12v battery but he did put in a normal starter battery. when it died i swapped it with a agm battery (varta d52...130€), and since then no more voltage drops and no more bugs or other problems. so agm has higher voltage than wet starter battery and electronic components in ampera need it...dont make a mistake and replace it with starter battery...
Battery-state-of-charge-for-Wet-and-AGM.png
 

·
Registered
Outlander
Joined
·
5,029 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My understanding is that Bosch recommend that Ampera/Volt drivers do not use the S5. They recommend Ampera/Volt drivers use the S6 only.

The Bosch S6 is very hard to find in the UK.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
I forgot about that wee bit of detail.
My understanding is that Bosch recommend that Ampera/Volt drivers do not use the S5. They recommend Ampera/Volt drivers use the S6 only.

The Bosch S6 is very hard to find in the UK.
Yes s5 is a starter battery so dont use it. S6 is a agm, but i preffer varta d52 it is ok and cheaper too. Dimentions are exact.
 

·
Registered
Outlander
Joined
·
5,029 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
That D52 looks different to the D52 shown on the Varta website - how do we know it is genuine?
 

·
Registered
Outlander
Joined
·
5,029 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Not sure. It is missing the max/min markers, it is missing the drill holes in the base, the vents are shaped like Bosch instead of Varta, the plastic is not as straight (looks softer), the injection moulding entry point is visible on the outside (an attention to detail is to design with these on the inside), ... the two photos certainly display products that came from two different production lines.

I do not know that it is fake, but if Varta have more than one packaging then ergonlabr is advertising a cheaper packaging to the packaging advertised on Varta's website.

After spooking myself I will be looking at Varta's list of recommended retailers to verify.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top