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2017 30kWh LEAF Black Edition
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have recently purchased a CTEK smart charger to condition my 12v battery as a precautionary measure for my 2017 30kWh LEAF, and would be grateful for some advice about connecting the smart charger to the battery.

The charger comes supplied with eyelet connectors that could be permanently attached to the battery terminals but is it ok to connect one of these to the negative battery terminal ? The manual suggests clamping the negative cable to the inverter in a jump start situation but is this also required for a conditioning charge ?
 

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I think the reason for doing it when jump starting, is to keep any sparks away from any flamable battery gas. If you are coupling a charger permanently, I'd have thought it's fine to connect to the terminal.
 

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I've connected smart chargers to an assortment of cars, motorbikes, ATVs. Straight on to the battery terminals is fine, as is pretty much anything else that picks up + and - and is convenient, in my experience.
 

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Hyundai Ioniq 28
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There are a couple of reasons to connect the negative lead to the car chassis. One is discussed in post #2 above. The other is that modern cars sometimes have a sensor between the battery negative post and the chassis that 'speaks' to the car's system and monitors the 12v DC battery condition. This means that if a charger is connected to the battery post and inserts 14volts it can confuse the sensor, and then the cars electronics, and cause control issues that may need a dealer visit to reset the system.

I don't think that a Leaf 30 has such a system though so that shouldn't be a problem.

I have always connected my smart charger to an EV directly to the battery terminal posts, using crocodile clips, and had no issues. In any case, it can sometimes be difficult to find an unpainted metal item in an EV that is known to have a direct connection to the chassis. In an ICE there are dozens of such places.

It should not be necessary to attach a smart charger more than once per month or there is something fundamentally wrong that needs further investigation. And croc clips are convenient for such routine maintenance events.
 

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I have an Optimate battery tender permanently connected to the +ve and -ve terminals of the battery on my Leaf Acenta and have had no issues with it at all.
 

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I have an Optimate battery tender permanently connected to the +ve and -ve terminals of the battery on my Leaf Acenta and have had no issues with it at all.
Do you leave the unit itself under the bonnet or detach it from the polarity protected connector to take the tender indoors until it's next used. I have considered fitting the entire unit in the car with it wired to the battery but had a couple of reservations. One concerned the retention of the mains lead somewhere where it wouldn't be damaged or soiled. And the other over the unit itself being jogged and jiggled as the car hits the inevitable pothole and such which is not exactly what sensitive electronics relish much. So I keep the smarty safe and warm indoors until its next routine session.
 

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My Optimate sits in a cradle on the garage wall, and I installed the LV cable in the car with the SAE connector sitting adjacent to the charging ports at the front of the car. (It was a bit of a fiddle to get the cable installed.) I just open the charge point door to gain access and plug the charger in. As it happens, on Saturday I followed a YouTube link on a motorcycle forum to a video which described an in-line state of charge meter sold by Optimate, it looked promising, so I went ahead and ordered one; it should be delivered later this week. One feature of the meter is that it has a water-resistant cap over the terminals, so they claim it's safe to leave on the vehicle. I'll report back when I receive and test it. Details of the meter are on the Optimate website.
 

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Thanks - I hadn't factored in that a car could actually enter a garage these days. A combination of small garage width, larger car width, and accumulation of junk makes that difficult. As well as many houses having no garage, or power to a bank of remote garage units. I have an exterior 13 amp socket next to my exterior PodPoint on the house wall and get away with a short mains extension cable to underneath the bonnet where the smart charger can hide away as it does its thing via the crocodile clips. No great advantage to hard wiring the battery to a cable fitted with a SAE connector. Especially as this smarty didn't come with such a connector.
 

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I have recently purchased a CTEK smart charger to condition my 12v battery as a precautionary measure for my 2017 30kWh LEAF, and would be grateful for some advice about connecting the smart charger to the battery.
As a matter of interest which CTEK unit did you go for? I’m thinking of getting one too, just to ensure the 12v low voltage battery in my eGolf is kept charged, with much less use these days!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
It was the MXS 5.0, this seems to be one of the most commonly used for this application. I've used it successfully on both my leaf and ICE.
 
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