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Coiling a charge cable is not a problem, I've done measuremtents to confirm this. It has plenty of air circulation around it due to the cable diameter. This is very different to dozens of tightly wound turns on a cable reel.
 

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The problems with coiling have nothing to do with heat dissipation in use, and everything to do with mechanical strain.

Have a look at a typical flex for a steam iron to see what multiple coiling cycles can do to a cable.
 

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As the Amp is Type1 and the next EV will use a Type2 plug, you will need to rewire anyway so an un tethered unit may be the solution with the 10m cable left plugged in and padlocked to a staple. This also allows visitors with type 2 cars to charge if needed.
View attachment 124985
This is a deterrence as anyone seriously into pinching copper will cut the cable - mine's been there for 3+ years now.
This is a great idea.
Can I make a small suggestion, remove the four standard number 3 poz screws and fit some fittings that the "Pond Life" will find it harder to remove.
Either that, or consider filling the screw heads with liquid metal or use a centre punch to collapse / damage the heads to prevent extraction.
If YOU then need them out at a latter date, you could completely drill off the heads of the screws and then remove the shanks with a pair of good mole grips.
If the "Pond Life" remove's these basic fittings, they are on their toe's together with your cable / hasp and the padlock otherwise.
What about this idea !.
Remove the one that is there, then maybe fit one of these !.
Drill one hole in a SOLID part of the brickwork, then install this.
There is drill sizes required etc in the Q&A tab on the link.
Basically you drill the hole, then use the "setting tool" provided to expand the split sleeve in the hole.
Remove the setting tool and fit the eye bolt, done.

 
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