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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all

Took delivery of my new 225xe M Sport last thursday. Am enjoying every minute of it upto now. One thing I have noticed, when charging it's been taking getting on for 6 hours for a full charge from almost flat, on the 13amp charger that came with the car.

I have the charge rate set to low in the car. Should I be setting this to reduced on a normal 13 amp socket, or do I need to leave it as low?

Thanks
 

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Hi all

Took delivery of my new 225xe M Sport last thursday. Am enjoying every minute of it upto now. One thing I have noticed, when charging it's been taking getting on for 6 hours for a full charge from almost flat, on the 13amp charger that came with the car.

I have the charge rate set to low in the car. Should I be setting this to reduced on a normal 13 amp socket, or do I need to leave it as low?

Thanks
You'll enjoy the 225xe mine is 19 months old with 15500ks of battery and 6,500ks petrol.

Leave the charge at factory setting normal. Why did you set the charge rate at low.
 

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You should be able to set it to Max. I believe that will be 10 amps on the brick charger. I also think that the settings are low by default. (This is from experience with the I3 but I have also found similar with other BMW PHEV owners).
 

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Assuming the wiring to the socket is up to the job then there is no reason you can’t set the charging to Maximum. That will take around 3 hours from empty.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Cheers guys. The car was set to low, so wasn't too sure as the manual seems to recommend keeping it at low. Will try maximum later.
 

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The cable supplied with the car allows a max 10 amps draw, so unless you're plugging into a really dodgy socket, you'll be fine at the 'normal' charging rate. At the normal rate, it should take just over 3 hours to get to 100% from 4 to 5%. The battery capacity is 7.5KW and the normal charging rate gives you 2.4KW per hour.

I've also used a 4 metre extension lead on occasion and it's fine too, providing the extension is rated to the full 13A.
 

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The cable supplied with the car allows a max 10 amps draw, so unless you're plugging into a really dodgy socket, you'll be fine at the 'normal' charging rate
This is bad advise, theres a number of pictures now floating of melted sockets. You should check the socket is secure with all terminals tightened and then regularly check thereafter - heat expansion will quickly loosen the terminals generating more heat etc etc. Most consumer 13a sockets are not designed for the duty cycle the car will put on them and that is why its recommended to get a dedicated charge socket.
 

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Most consumer 13a sockets are not designed for the duty cycle the car will put on them
BS1363 part 2 specifies a test with a continuous load of 14A for at least 4 hours and up to 8 hours if the temperature is still rising.
Every socket should comply with the standard. Double sockets go to a combined 20A (i.e. the second socket is set to provide 6A) so they will typically deal with heat better.
I don’t disagree that a specific socket for this use is a good idea but it’s not true to say that the sockets are not designed for a continuous load. The car will charge in around 3 hours using 10A which is well within the test scenario.
 

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You guys are worrying to much about nothing. You can plug in were ever and what every plug you like with the 225xe supplied charger. If the power socket wiring does like the power draw down the circuit breaker will trip for this run of power sockets.
 

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You guys are worrying to much about nothing. You can plug in were ever and what every plug you like with the 225xe supplied charger. If the power socket wiring does like the power draw down the circuit breaker will trip for this run of power sockets.
The point is the heat dissipation, not the current draw. A badly wired socket or wrongly specified wiring can overheat without exceeding the current limit and since power scales with the square of the current it’s really not hard to get hundreds of watts of heating in unexpected places. A breaker will not protect you from that.
 

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I started at low as well, not wanting to put too much strain onto my elderly house wiring. Had no issues, so increased through medium and now on high. Keep checking the socket for any issues, signs of heat etc. When I charge from an unknown quality household socket I will change back to low. Usually its for an overnight charge anyway.

So I find 3 hours to charge to 100% on normal household socket, and 2 hours 15 mins from the 32a chargers at work.

Mine is 10 months old and the scores on the doors are Total Mileage 23185 miles made up 14558.5 Petrol, 8626.5 Electric.
 

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I usually set the charging rates on both our cars to low if I want to make use of charging from our PV solar, which can fluctuate significantly. Having it on the lowest setting (ca 1200W) ensures that very little current is taken from the grid.
 

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When I've got my 'Mr Fusion' home reactor fitted, I expect my charge time to drop a fair bit. I wonder if the battery will be able to handle 1.21 gigawatts? :)

 

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I looked at installing a fast charger at home but the cost versus a maybe an 1.15 hour better charging time is not worth the cost. Using on street chargers is free but buying the charging cable is expensive and world take a long time to recoup the purchase cost.
 

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I've currently got a Golf GTE that comes with a type 2 cable as well a household 13a cable . It is mean of BMW not to supply both as standard .
 

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car is capable to charge at any amp Level ( 5 A/ 7A/10A)as far as your wall wiring and sockets are good enough to hold that ampere,
but as a general practice, lower the ampere means lesser the battery Heat,
lesser the battery heats mean longer the battery life,
so i always go with low amp, and never charge it immediately after run , always keep minimum3h r to cool down and prefer nigh charging.
 
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