FWIW have found the first socket I toasted. Made by Click UK. BS Licence No. KM10807, BS 1363, SS 145. Model CMA036
... and here'a a link to buy it. £2.13 + VAT. (Price seems to have gone up 6p since they made the page!)
Click Mode 13A Double Switched Socket CMA036 Click Mode CMA036 13A 2 Gang DP Switched Socket [CMA036] - £2.07
View attachment 139201
View attachment 139202
Interesting to see that the negative conductor is displaying the normal signs of over heating issue on that image of your previous socket outlet.
I always found it was the "Live" side of the three pin plug that would get the warmest when the car had been on charge for a while on the "Granny".
But then you would expect this really, as the live conductor is carrying the heavy and constant load through the thin terminals that grips the sides of 13amp protection fuse.
There are socket outlets, and there are quality socket outlets I guess !.
The same could also be said for RCBO's used in wall boxes as well.
If you pay about £2.00 for a socket outlet and intend to only run a table lamp through it, then it will comfortably do this without any issues for the next 50 years and beyond without any issues.
Then ask the same socket outlet to power a "Granny" unit for the next twelve months and it is very likely to fall over ( as we have already seen ).
Yeah - They all carry a max load rating on the product spec of the item, the max carrying capacity is usually printed on the rear plate of the item.
However, this offers no guidance with regards to a timescale that this unit will carry the max load safely, without causing an over heating problem over time.
Surely they ALL should tested in the same way, tested to there highest load carrying capability, over a same given time scale to prove their ability.
Are the testing regs to vague in this field I wonder ?.
Should high load demand outlets have a extra rating applied to them, that refers to a time line / length of time they are expected to carry this max load ?.
Maybe they already do and I am talking utter rubbish of course !.
I know you can apply the old adage :-
"You get what you pay for" and "Buy cheap, buy twice".
But somehow it should be a little more technical / safety based than just the price we are asked to pay for certain know quality equipment surely.
The large finger of H&S could be pointed firmly back towards the protection offered be safety breaker in the C.U. of course.
It should detect any issues on the circuit and trip if necessary.
Brilliant, but how many older houses in this country have the older type C.U's that don't offer any protection covering that chosen socket outlet, loads is the answer.
It gets you thinking, well me anyway that's for sure.
Honestly, I would only feel comfortable using a "Granny" unit on a regular basis, that was connected to the C.U. on it's own dedicated circuit, that has the provision to be protected by a suitably rated breaker / RCBO of good quality.
Buying an EV home for the first time and then plugging a "Granny" unit into one of the kitchen socket that has been normally used to power a radio for the last thirty plus years, with no remedial electrical work prior, is asking for trouble.
For a very short term limited "Get You By" situation, this maybe okay but not on a constant nightly basis in my opinion.
That's why a dedicated wall box is MUCH better option, because the box can only be installed after the house wiring is either okayed for the install, or an alteration / adaptation / upgrade can be made on an older system, to make the circuit for the wall box to be safe and therefore fit for purpose.
I used a "Granny" lead on a newly installed circuit for a few months while waiting for my wall box to be installed under the OLEV grant.
Yeah it worked fine, but I don't see these units as a good long term solution to charging an EV to be totally honest.
My previous car was a PHEV so the load / demand and length of charging cycle, was much shorter than it would have been on a BEV of course.