Yep, drove to London yesterday morning up the A3 and got just 37 miles, instead of my normal summer range of 47-48 on the London trip. Temperature was 11-14, it does make a huge difference. Prepared for it now though, this is my third winter!I've noticed the past couple of mornings that the cold starts really affect range. I usually have a couple of miles left after my 45 mile commute, but yesterday and this morning the battery expired a mile from work....
Interesting... I could imagine that doing it... switching to HOLD mode when going uphill is kinda cheating IMO (Sorry!). That means you only ever use electric mode when going downhill... rather artificial in my opinion as it effectively means that you are only driving in EV mode downhill and I don't know of anywhere in the UK where there is a 70 mile continuous downhill stretchHold mode when going uphill and gather the regen when going downhill
I think that would be by far the most efficient way to boost your overall electric range of it meant you could turn down the electric heating for the remainder of the journey, as that absolutely cripples the electric range in my experienceJust a thought
If the range is not enough to get you to your destination has anyone done an experiment to work out if running the ICE at the begining of the trip (therefore generating heat) would have a possitive affect on battery miles?
But in the real world does using the ICE up hill / at high speeds to provide direct drive to the wheels actually work out as the most economical way to driveI don't think that using petrol to go up a hill and regen on the way down is really helpful wrt battery range clubs. It is a different game and only screenshots with no petrol use get the wow response from me.
That's largely going to depend on the terrain and how hard the ICE is having to work. On the flat my engine will stay at its lowest speed whilst I bimble along at 70mph, but as soon as I hit an incline (don't have hills in the fens) it will go up a notch. When I head born or South to more 'mountainous' territory the engine will sometimes hit top revs.But in the real world does using the ICE up hill / at high speeds to provide direct drive to the wheels actually work out as the most economical way to drive
This was exactly my original point to @RayG , Richard, that you can't assume when you go in and out of Hold mode that the car isn't using and topping up the battery, it's out of your control. I don't have all the numbers you do, which are really interesting (must get the OVMS stuff working!) but I've felt and seen (from the power flow picture) the car doing what you describe on the occasions I've used hold mode in the past. I rarely use Hold these days.Excellent thread The engine's most efficient at about 2000rpm so really using it on motorways and long A-road stretches is best, and using pure electric mode on hills (both up and down) is best. Short steep hills aren't a problem as it uses the buffer up to prevent raising the revs on the ICE.
Speaking of which... my tests last night were very interesting. Sitting in stop-start traffic and pressing Hold at 76.3% battery life, it didn't start the ICE, but instead allowed me to use up around 2% of my battery. At this point the ICE started and held around 1400-2000rpm for a bit, pushing energy back into the battery, and built it back up to around 76% again. So it seems under low load and low speeds, it uses up to around 2% of your existing battery level before topping up.
Once the traffic cleared, I was up to around 40mph between traffic lights and roundabouts, and immediately it did something different - the ICE came on and charged at around 2000rpm until 2% over the original, at around 78%. It then cut out, and I ran on electric power until it got down to -2% (i.e. about 74% again). This cycle continued - ICE on at around 74-75%, ICE off at around 77-78%.
Then I went back to Normal mode, as I was ruining my average tank MPG
Complex software in this car, I tells yer!