[NewToElectric]

I just want to get it now. Hopefully collecting at the weekend. In the meantime...

* Does the car have automatic hill start? My s-max did (geared). Take foot off break and it would hold long enough to get the foot on the accelerator. There seems to be an assist button on the kona. I don’t need to turn hill assist on every time do I? I'm already missing the clutch!

* start and stop turns the engine on and off... so what’s the difference between park, drive and the 'hand brake'. Presumably n is neutral and for...? When would an electric car need to go into neutral?

* parking on a steep hill... normally pull handbrake on tight and put car in gear... in an automatic...?

* what does the 'heat' button do?

* what’s one newbie tip you’d offer?

Thank you 😬

 

[mikegs]

It has a hold function for hill starts which some people swear by. I find it gives rather unrefined starts, so I prefer to use the Foot brake - as there is no need to work a clutch. Your preference.
D, R, N, P are fundamentally the same as most automatics. P locks the transmission. The parking brake switch uses a motor to fully apply the rear brakes. (I think that if you turn the car off or exit it - can't remember exactly - it will apply brake and/or P automatically.)
Wherever you park just put it in P and set the brake.
The heat button means don't use cooling (as far as I can tell) - and vice-versa. Mostly you can leave it in auto but I have the odd occasion to want to stop it using one or the other in transient situations, often at first start.

Read the manual, don't overthink it. It's been made to be driven by sub-optimal humans and, given your questions, you are better than that.
My wife has no clue about how anything works on cars, but it's near enough the same as her ICE automatic that she can get in, press start, select D, and go.

 

[esprit1st]

As mentioned, just drive it and use the buttons as mentioned. Not knowing your specific needs, unless you're doing a lot of daily driving, just enjoy your new experience and use the supplied 120V charger. It will give you around 50 miles (15-20%) range charging over night. Once you get a feel for how much you need you can look into getting a dedicated, faster EVSE "charger".

 

[KiwiME]

Reading the manual is really the best advice and don't try to compare every feature with cars you've already owned.

@esprit1st, noting that in Norway the OP will have a supplied 230VAC EVSE!

 

[hieronymous]

The HVAC gives you climate air, controlling humidity as well as temperature, so you may sometimes see Heat and A/C both on for a short time. If you just want airflow, you can turn off both Heat and A/C, though sometimes the HVAC has a mind of its own...

 

[esprit1st]

Reading the manual is really the best advice and don't try to compare every feature with cars you've already owned.

@esprit1st, noting that in Norway the OP will have a supplied 230VAC EVSE!

That's right, giving you even more range, about 100 miles over night without investing into an EVSE right away.

 

[Gadget Geek]

If it is your first EV, my tip would be get Zap-Map and A Better Rout Planner on your phone. They are essential if you are going on a road trip. If you don't want to be bothered with payment apps or RFID fobs, set the filter in Zap-Map to contactless and it will show you all the chargers where you can pay with your credit/debit card.

 

[paulBzoe]

It has a hold function for hill starts which some people swear by. I find it gives rather unrefined starts, so I prefer to use the Foot brake - as there is no need to work a clutch. Your preference.
D, R, N, P are fundamentally the same as most automatics. P locks the transmission. The parking brake switch uses a motor to fully apply the rear brakes. (I think that if you turn the car off or exit it - can't remember exactly - it will apply brake and/or P automatically.)
Wherever you park just put it in P and set the brake.
The heat button means don't use cooling (as far as I can tell) - and vice-versa. Mostly you can leave it in auto but I have the odd occasion to want to stop it using one or the other in transient situations, often at first start.

Read the manual, don't overthink it. It's been made to be driven by sub-optimal humans and, given your questions, you are better than that.
My wife has no clue about how anything works on cars, but it's near enough the same as her ICE automatic that she can get in, press start, select D, and go.

My one tip...make sure the lights are set to auto....the amount of konas in the dark with no back lights on.

 

[HandyAndy]

You'll find you hardly use the disc brakes at all, as the regen does such a great job of recovering all that energy. EVs in general have a great reputation for rusting the rear discs and even getting MOT failures! The fronts do get a tiny bit of use, as below about 2-3 mph they come on, to do the final halt from walking-pace. But the rears do zilch generally! So it's good practice to slip the car into 'N' occasionally (when no other cars around) which completely disengages regen, and then dab the brakes. This will actually exercise all 4 discs, and polishes them up nicely, and stops premature rusting of the rears. I do this as I get home coming round final bend in the road, warms them up a bit. Also after washing the car, I'll make sure the discs are properly dried by going round the block using N a lot.

This is why the ID.3 has drum rears! I'm finding these don't suffer the sort of rusting-stuck-on issues that handbraked discs often have, you know that "bang" you sometimes get when reversing out of driveway after a few days idle, and the pads don't want to release without a fight...

 

[Signpost]

You'll find you hardly use the disc brakes at all, as the regen does such a great job of recovering all that energy. EVs in general have a great reputation for rusting the rear discs and even getting MOT failures! The fronts do get a tiny bit of use, as below about 2-3 mph they come on, to do the final halt from walking-pace. But the rears do zilch generally! So it's good practice to slip the car into 'N' occasionally (when no other cars around) which completely disengages regen, and then dab the brakes. This will actually exercise all 4 discs, and polishes them up nicely, and stops premature rusting of the rears. I do this as I get home coming round final bend in the road, warms them up a bit. Also after washing the car, I'll make sure the discs are properly dried by going round the block using N a lot.

This is why the ID.3 has drum rears! I'm finding these don't suffer the sort of rusting-stuck-on issues that handbraked discs often have, you know that "bang" you sometimes get when reversing out of driveway after a few days idle, and the pads don't want to release without a fight...

I have started to use N for this purpose as well especially as my Kona is due for first MOT in September. I have pre paid Service and MOT at this time so will not initially go elsewhere.

Based on the experience of two family members with Hyundai’s, my local Dealer sees Brake Component replacement as a money spinner - particularly Disc replacement.

In one case when a Tucson was in for Service and MOT they stated that new Discs were required and that the car was too dangerous for the Technician to Carry out a Test Drive.

Shortly afterwards a different MOT Station was happy to certify that the car was safe and stated that there was nothing wrong with the brakes!

 

[Benhchap]

Hi fellow EV folk, I’m asking for a friend of mine but he wants to check that either a bought outright or leased kona does cone with a granny charger with the car? Any ideas actual overnight increase? Many thanks.

 

[pgh1949]

Hi fellow EV folk, I’m asking for a friend of mine but he wants to check that either a bought outright or leased kona does cone with a granny charger with the car? Any ideas actual overnight increase? Many thanks.

It certainly does (or should do!)

As for the charging rate, my experience is that I got about 2.6kW out of the charger and roughly 4 miles/kWh at this time of year which equates to approximately 10 miles per hour of charge. These are very rough figures but give you a good starting point. So if you leave it charging from 8pm to 8am thats 120 miles. Hope that helps.

 

[Benhchap]

It certainly does (or should do!)

As for the charging rate, my experience is that I got about 2.6kW out of the charger and roughly 4 miles/kWh at this time of year which equates to approximately 10 miles per hour of charge. These are very rough figures but give you a good starting point. So if you leave it charging from 8pm to 8am thats 120 miles. Hope that helps.

@pgh1949 many thanks for this! That’s a great range add from a plug in, pretty sure that’s more than my M3 charger would do! Brilliant I’ll pass that info on, cheers 👍😃