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One solution might be to put the car into "charge" mode - will this force the engine to run, even when running downhill? I use this method to run the ice in traffic, to warm the heater
Do you think this is anymore efficient than just using the batteries to warm the heater, given that resistive heating is much more efficient than using an idling engine? I haven't done the maths to calculate the cost of petrol vs electricity but I feel that it will lean towards electricity as the better choice.
 

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Do you think this is anymore efficient than just using the batteries to warm the heater, given that resistive heating is much more efficient than using an idling engine? I haven't done the maths to calculate the cost of petrol vs electricity but I feel that it will lean towards electricity as the better choice.
I havn't worked it out technically either!

All I know is that at some point during my commute I will need to use about 5 miles worth of petrol - so it seems to make sense to use this at the beginning of the journey, so that it has the added benefit of heating the car.

I also havnt worked out whether when you first start up, with a cold engine, does it still use electric to warm the heater - I think it does, as often the EV range will reduce further, even with the ice running
 

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Using the combustion engine at the beginning of a longer trip to warm the car seems to make sense.
But not downhill. Downhill the car produces more electric energy than the battery can take. So using this energy for heating is "for free".
Even more if the battery is still full and can't take any energy.
 

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Has anyone had any issues with the filler cap not opening? I just went to fill up, with only 40 indicated miles of fuel left, system vented as usual but the flap didn't open, it's slightly ajar but I can't open it. Have tried locking and unlocking, and driven home which re pressurised the tank. Still no joy. Going to have to take it in on Monday if it doesn't open tomorrow as I won't be able to get to work on Tuesday without filling up!
 

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4 week from my deliver- excited to finally get my hands on my new car.

Just looking for any tips that I might miss in the first few weeks.

My commute is 33 miles and I can charge at both ends - is it best to EV at the start, middle or end of my commute?

SIM card - in the UK I'm planning a data only SIZm - just seeing if anyone know if 500mb or 1GB would do?

Thanks for any tips.
 

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4 week from my deliver- excited to finally get my hands on my new car.

Just looking for any tips that I might miss in the first few weeks.

My commute is 33 miles and I can charge at both ends - is it best to EV at the start, middle or end of my commute?

SIM card - in the UK I'm planning a data only SIZm - just seeing if anyone know if 500mb or 1GB would do?

Thanks for any tips.
Had car 5 months
2000 miles
Used 72mb for three mobile PAYG
Just used for traffic and some Google searches
Not used for Google maps or wifi

As for best strategy when you get to ev range limit. Not sure yet but working on it as i will be increasing my journey distance as summer aproaches.
 

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I use the following sim - 6GB for 90 days for £15 (but you can get 10% cashback with quidco) and then chuck it and get another one - EE 4Gee PAYG Triple Data Sim Pack 6 GB (set apn = "everywhere", username/password="" (blank) and use phone/tablet via hotspot to activate sim) - I've not looked how much I use but I did use all the last one but havn't replaced it yet until I need to go on a longer trip.
 

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My charger door / badge / flap twist lock failed last week.I turned it to unlock and it was stuck in place. I wiggled the badge and the lock pinged off and fell on the drive.

I always believed it to be flimsy and a poor design compared to the Golf GTE badge version.

Hoping it won't mean too long at the main stealer again.....
 

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Hi Ayr, I have a similar commute of 30miles. I found best to use EV when in low speed zones (under 35 mph). I start in pure EV as I have a big descent at first that uses about 4 miles of range for my first 8 miles as I go down a lot at first. When I reach a near highway stretch I toggle to hybrid auto for about 15 miles. At that point I get in the city and revert back to pure EV for the remaining of my commute. I try to optimize to reach my office at 0 miles and often deplete the battery entirely and get toggled on hold near my office. On the way back I found totally inefficient to try to do my last 6 miles on EV because of the steep climb on those last miles so I manage to reach this climb at 0 miles of range to use the hybrid hold mode to get back to the house. I see this as a great challenge and more of a game of finding the best recipes for your unique commute. On cold days (-8C) I get 3,5l/100km on morning and 5l/100km on way back. My steep incline on the way back is hard on EV usage plus I can't use the pre-heat option at night since I don't have it. Car sleep in a heated garage and I found this to help a lot on max range.
 

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Hi Ayr, I have a similar commute of 30miles. I found best to use EV when in low speed zones (under 35 mph). I start in pure EV as I have a big descent at first that uses about 4 miles of range for my first 8 miles as I go down a lot at first. When I reach a near highway stretch I toggle to hybrid auto for about 15 miles. At that point I get in the city and revert back to pure EV for the remaining of my commute. I try to optimize to reach my office at 0 miles and often deplete the battery entirely and get toggled on hold near my office. On the way back I found totally inefficient to try to do my last 6 miles on EV because of the steep climb on those last miles so I manage to reach this climb at 0 miles of range to use the hybrid hold mode to get back to the house. I see this as a great challenge and more of a game of finding the best recipes for your unique commute. On cold days (-8C) I get 3,5l/100km on morning and 5l/100km on way back. My steep incline on the way back is hard on EV usage plus I can't use the pre-heat option at night since I don't have it. Car sleep in a heated garage and I found this to help a lot on max range.
Many thanks - I'll try what you suggest - I suppose it will be a bit of learning to see what performs the best. I've a good mix of slow speed, highway then city at the end - with a big climb on the highway section.

What kind of mpg to you get on this sort of run? Over the magic 100mpg?
 

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On fair weather days I got from 70mpg to 95mpg on my 34 miles commute. I can get 100+mpg on trips under 25 miles and 100% EV on 15 to 25 miles trip but it's still winter down here with temperatures around 32F on 17 inches winter tires.
 

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I got that overfilled gaz tank smell again this morning in the garage. Got my gaz cap open and saw/heard some gaz run down the hose... Weard since I stop filling as soon as the tank stop... I know the e-tron uses a pressurized tank but this is getting annoying...
 

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Just taken car in for 1st year oil service. Cost was £198 for check and oil change which I felt was ok. However one advisory note was that rear brakes were showing signs of corrosion and scoring and may need replacing in future. Service representative suggested it was due to winter weather. Not sure I feel a cost of £308 to change brake discs and pads after 9000 miles is very cost effective. Better start using the brakes more than the paddles to slow the car down !!
Still getting around 22 miles showing as range on full charge, hopefully as things warm up I'll be seeing the 30 miles range showing as we did last summer.
 

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Just taken car in for 1st year oil service. Cost was £198 for check and oil change which I felt was ok. However one advisory note was that rear brakes were showing signs of corrosion and scoring and may need replacing in future. Service representative suggested it was due to winter weather. Not sure I feel a cost of £308 to change brake discs and pads after 9000 miles is very cost effective. Better start using the brakes more than the paddles to slow the car down !!
Still getting around 22 miles showing as range on full charge, hopefully as things warm up I'll be seeing the 30 miles range showing as we did last summer.
Hi. I get mine next month.

Can I ask what you mean using the padels to brake? Is it is full EV mode jump down the gears so no use of brake pedal?
 

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I know on here we're generally quite fixated by the EV range displayed on the dashboard, which in real-world driving often depletes sooner than it estimates, but it's the petrol range display that bugs me the most.

Is the petrol range estimate based upon current journey (or long-term average) MPG or is it fixed? I really do find the E-Tron encourages me to drive quite conservatively, but, try as I may, the miles consistently drop faster than the distance I'm actually covering. Oh look, 270 miles left - 10 miles later - 250 miles left. ARGH.
 

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I believe that the ICE range is based initially on the avg fuel consumption of the e-tron. I'm guessing that they'd use the combined economy rating. Then while driving, the calculations adjust based on your right foot.
That's my thought.
@Ayr-Etron Prontouk was referring to the paddle shifters on the steering column. If you have them you can use the downshift (left paddle) to engage brake regen (which slows you down). You can do this in any of the modes (regen is automatic in Hybrid Charge once you lift off the go pedal).
 

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I doubt any of the computer displays are correct. So I normally get 380 miles per tank as a hybrid with probably 1 or 2 charges thrown in. If you look at the stats on the MMI i tend to get 60% emission free therefore 40% was on petrol. 40% of 380 is 152 miles. So does that mean the car's petrol consumption is 17.2 mpg 40L=8.8gals 152/8.8=17.2mpg
 

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Hi. I get mine next month.

Can I ask what you mean using the padels to brake? Is it is full EV mode jump down the gears so no use of brake pedal?
Owners have found 2 ways to cause car to use a sort of regenerative braking, where the car slows down without applying brakes rather than "freewheeling" which its very good at. One tip was to pull left hand paddle towards you which causes car to go into manual "gear " mode. You will see display shows M followed by a number from 1 - 6. Normally shows M6 if above 20mph. The car will then slow down without you applying brakes when you remove foot from accelerator pedal . To re-engage automatic mode you can pull right paddle towards you and hold for 2 seconds.

The easier way is to move the gear shift to left, into manual mode. Then when you're finished "braking" just move it to right to normal "drive" position.

I use this sometimes when on bendy roads to save braking all the time with the pedal.

I'm sure others may be able to give better instructions or you can search through threads. Probably under "regenerative" braking

Hope that makes sense
 

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Owners have found 2 ways to cause car to use a sort of regenerative braking, where the car slows down without applying brakes rather than "freewheeling" which its very good at. One tip was to pull left hand paddle towards you which causes car to go into manual "gear " mode. You will see display shows M followed by a number from 1 - 6. Normally shows M6 if above 20mph. The car will then slow down without you applying brakes when you remove foot from accelerator pedal . To re-engage automatic mode you can pull right paddle towards you and hold for 2 seconds.

The easier way is to move the gear shift to left, into manual mode. Then when you're finished "braking" just move it to right to normal "drive" position.

I use this sometimes when on bandit roads to save braking all the time with the pedal.

I'm sure others may be able to give better instructions or you can search through threads. Probably under "regenerative" braking

Hope that makes sense
I use the right paddle only. When expecting to slow down flick the right paddle. The car changes down through M6 - M1 by itself. More generation this way as far as I can see. Flick back up on the right M1 - M6 while increasing in speed if it hasn't already automatically switched back to D. Never use the left paddle. Only reason for using the gear shift is to engage 'S' :) .... When going down through M I have see the brake lights reflect on the car behind even when not using the brake.... Not sure when this has happened as it's hard to see.
 
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