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MadSilence
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Hi! Have anyone done an aftermarket install of a subwoofer and amp in The ampera? I think The BOSE sub is O.K. daily. But some days I really miss my garaged 12"ers?!;)

The battery is at back so installation should be VERY easy ;) the question is really.. Is there any way if getting signal and power on to the amp?:) some amps does have signal on which is awesome :) think mine has but;)
 

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I wondered how long it would be till you asked that, given your other posts about modding cars ;) I have a really excellent set-up.... sitting in the garage :confused: as I've not got round to installing it. I think that the power connections to the amp for the sub and any additional amp for the other speakers would be easy; the tedious bit would be taking apart the console to get behind the infotainment screen to find a line-out (which I bet there isn't) or a high-level speaker out, and bring that all the way to the back of the car.
On a previous installation, I grabbed the speaker connections destined for the rear speakers and fed them into the high-level inputs on the sub amp, then turned down the rear speakers a few notches and set the sound levels to be right with the sub. This meant I could turn up the sub a bit if I wanted to, without risking damaging the rear speakers ;)
I also had a separate high quality amp for my aftermarket front speakers too, but it did involve a lot of wiring, and to be honest it just showed up the distinctly average quality of the head unit...
So after all that I haven't fitted anything to the Ampera!
 

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MadSilence
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Discussion Starter #3
Oooh;) which posts?:D

Yeah hooking the power up is easy as the battery is in the back. I read some other dudes post that the BOSE amp Is also located in the back and you can tap in on those inputs. I just don't know how. He didn't show that part of course xD
 

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Dan,

did you find out where the bose subwoofer is located - I'm not convinced mine is working - then again I had a 600w driven 12" in the boot and it could be that I'm just missing that! I just don't feel any really deep base that I would expect with Bose.

Also - has anyone ever found out if there's an API for the infotainment system It's a good interface but the audio bits like HDD and radio are all pretty lame graphically speaking. - Just plain text on a black screen is not cool like the rest of the car. It could have such a nice front end like so many apps on phones etc... and then... what about an equaliser....
:)

Nick
 

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I'd be really wary about conecting anything to the 12v battery they do seem to be fragile. High current devices like big woofers probably need a buffer battery to protect the normal 12v.
 

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also be interested to know where the Bose sub is, just got my car, audio seems ok but not fantastic, want to make sure its working
 

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Thank you. I found it. Hmmm it's working. Shame as I was hoping it wasn't then could fix it and get some nice low bass.

Sent from my P9000 using Tapatalk
 

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I had a little look earlier, how do I access the battery area? I know where it is from the jump start access hatches but couldn't work out how to get in there.
 

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Anyone done this? I've finally got good bass out of the Bose sub using my phones bass boost and an aptx HD Bluetooth receiver.

However I have a 1.4kw infinity amp, sub and 6x9s in the attic. I can tap power easily from the battery, but need to know the wiring pinout on the boot Bose amp so I can splice it out.

Where can I find this info, has anyone tried?
 

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You would be running this off the DC : DC converter - there is no alternator like a conventional car, the built in amp unit is class D to gain efficiency and cut power usage. I'm not sure of the converter power rating but someone who does will be along. DC : DC converters don't take kindly to overload unlike an alternator which will shrug it off.

Remember if you pull 500watts per hour that's loosing range, you only have 10kWh to play with and taking 0.5kWh is a chunk - I can get 2 miles on that (4 miles / kWh) in current weather and further in summer.
 

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Yeah don't mind munching KWs for bass. I design electronics for a living so no worries on the DC DC. It would be handy to know the output spec of the charge supply yes, as wouldn't want to damage it. I have a 3.5 farrad capacitor to buffer the amp so should be okay. It's the line or high level stereo outputs, and remote-on lines I want to get to :)

Thanks!
 

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Hi guys, very annoying situation. I removed the Bose amp, took the lid off, identified all the chips, soldered wires to the analog inputs of one of the class d amps to tap a line out, put back together and the amp no longer works, removed wires, no ghost. I design this kind of electronics at work daily, even if the passive components on the input that I soldered to got heat damaged, this should not happen.

I plug it in and I hear a 1-2 second hiss from the sub enclosure then it cuts out. So somehow the board has kamikaze'd itself and I have no idea why.

I can see replacement Bose amps for the car on ebay, but will they work, or are they stupidly coded to the vehicle? How do I fix this?

For now I will fit my big Infinity sound system and bypass the whole car entertainment system, but this is really not the solution I'm looking for :(

Any advice appreciated!

Thanks
 
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