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Discussion Starter #1
Aixam Mega City Electric 2007 (DC Sepex) Service Manual Wanted

Hi,

Has anyone got one of these I could obtain a copy of? Or just the wiring diagram would be a start?

I have 2 of them on a remote Scotish island and am about to sell one on and it has one or 2 annoying electrical issues that I'd like to resolve. Also, as getting them to the mainland would be difficult, expensive and, frankly, pretty pointless ("You want me to fix your *what*?... And it's *electric*...?!!!")

Failing that, does anyone know if there is a good French EV forum on the interweb I could try?

Thanks in anticipation.
Martin Winlow
Isle of Colonsay
 

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Hello Martin

Did you ever manage to get hold of a manual or wiring diagram for these cars? I'm similarly in need, and having no luck in chasing one down.

Cheers
Jaz
 

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All I ever found was the attached "Plan électrique Worker.pdf" which I am not convinced is actually for the Mega City and it's all in French... just to make life interesting. I do have the service manual ("Repair Manual") in English for the ICE version but it is 8Mb+ so if you want it, please PM me.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks sa_aixam. There is some very interesting and useful stuff, there. My main interest, now, is to be able to use the standard charger to charge my lithium batteries. I have fitted a simple BMS to protect them from under and over voltage but because the charger has a PWM input to conrol charge rate, I am loath to experiemnt with it in case I damage the charger. With the pinout as shown on your (super high-res!) wiring diagram, I should be able to do this safely, now. If you happen to know what the PWM frequency is and some rough idea of duty cycle for full power and half power, that would be a big help but I can scope the working one I have still (I have one City with the stock charger and another with a replacement one both with Li batteries - 4 x Valence U27-12XP).

Thanks agian.

MW
 

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Hey, Just become the proud owner of a broken Mega City. I have not started troubleshooting the car yet, could someone PM me the ICE Repair manual? that would be really helpful.

The only thing I have noticed was when the ignition key is turned I get an electrical constant sound (a bit like a fan on low) from the front of the car but no lights on the dash. I don't know what is dead with the car, it could be batteries or the charger or ECU as these seem to be common faults. The key has no remote fob so it could be an immobiliser if these had them?

Being new to working on electric vehicles is there a practical safety guide anywhere that I could follow to avoid killing myself with 800amps. I have looked for a haynes manual about electric cars but they seem to be lacking, even over 10 years on from electric cars entering mainstream service.

Thanks in advance!
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I doubt you will find the ICE version service manual in the least bit helpful, I'm afraid. The EV version user manual would be of more help/relevance! The mechanical side of the electric City is very basic and if you have some general car repair experience you will be bale to figure it all out, mostly.

Sounds like you may have a flat 12V battery - the noise may be a 12V relay oscillating on and off because there isn't quite enough voltage to close it properly.... but without hearing the noise I'm just guessing. Anyway, check the 12V aux battery first. It needs at least 10.5V to do what it should. The battery itself is tucked up behind the dash in front of the pax seat (dreadful design!) and therefore all but impossible to get at. However the cig lighter socket is a useful way to get to it and it can handle 15A so you can charge (the 12V aux battery) through it too.

That said, the car does not need the 12V aux battery to run - but you won't have any 12V systems including lights and horn!

If it really is a fan noise you can hear then this may be the motor cooling fan which is on all the time the ignition is on and is powered from the 48V traction pack. Almost every time I have seen one of these cars for sale, the traction pack is U/S. A new lead-acid one used to cost about £2k fitted... and I don't suppose the car cost you half that!(?)

Check the traction pack voltage too - it's accessable under the bonnet (after you remove the concealed weather tray - NB... 3 screws secure the tray - one at the back right but it'll probably already be snapped off as people always seem to miss it). Look for 48V (ish) between B- on the controller (-ve meter probe) and the far side of the contactor just to the right of the controller B+ connection... if that makes sense (the contactor mentioned is energised when you turn on the ignition and connects controller B+ to the +ve terminal of the 48V traction pack).

Oh... and do ensure the big 48V isolator switch is 'on' - it's located at the back of the 'engine' bay roughly central. If you need an anotated photo, let me know.
 

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Sounds like a flat 12V battery - the noise may be a 12V relay oscillating on and off because there isn't quite enough voltage to close it properly.... but without hearing the noise I'm just guessing. Anyway, check the 12V aux battery first. It needs at least 10.5V to do what it should. The battery itself is tucked up behind the dash in front of the pax seat (dreadful design!) and therefore all but impossible to get at. However the cig lighter socket is a useful way to get to it and it can handle 15A so you can charge (the 12V aux battery) through it too.

If it really is a fan then this may be the motor cooling fan which is on all the time the ignition is on and is powered from the 48V traction pack. Almost eery time I have seen one of these for sal, the traction pack is U/S. A new lead-acid one used to be about £2k fitted... and I don't suppose the car cost you half that!(?)

Check the traction pack voltage too - it's accessable under the bonnet (after you remove the concealed weather tray - NB... *3 screws secure the tray - one at the back right but it'll probably already be snapped off as people always seem to miss it). Look for 48V (ish) across B- on the controller (-ve meter probe) and the far side of the contactor just to the right of the controller B+ connection... if that makes sense (the contactor mentioned is energised when you turn on the ignition and connects controller B+ to the +ve terminal of the 48V traction pack).

Oh... and do ensure the big 48V isolator switch is 'on' - its equally inaccessible at the back of the 'engine' bay roughly central. If you need an anotated photo, let me know.
That's an excellent reply. I would love a photo if you can send one. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sorry - I forgot!

125430
 

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Thanks for the diagram Martin, there's a few bits on there I hadn't been able to identify. Sadly my car has broken down, so I'm going to have to try and figure out what the problem is. It lost power (batteries were full) and gradually ground to a halt, with an electrical burning smell evident. I can't find any sign of damaged components or wiring, and the speed controller is flashing the 'OK' code, so I'm wondering whether the motor itself has burnt out? I've started stripping the car down so that I can remove the motor, but then I have the problem of finding an engineering shop or some such who would be able to test it for me. Fun and games!

125454
 

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Check all the major 48V connections especially those to the motor (x 4). The cause should be pretty evident if you had a burning smell. I'd give all the rusty steelwork a good cotaing of Hamerite and/or Waxoyl whilst you have easy access. M
 

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Oh, and I'm not sure jacking it from where the jack is in the picture is a good plan. All the weight is in the battery tray. Is that where the manual says to jack it? If not, be careful or you might bend the 'chassis'.
 

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Thanks sa_aixam. There is some very interesting and useful stuff, there. My main interest, now, is to be able to use the standard charger to charge my lithium batteries. I have fitted a simple BMS to protect them from under and over voltage but because the charger has a PWM input to conrol charge rate, I am loath to experiemnt with it in case I damage the charger. With the pinout as shown on your (super high-res!) wiring diagram, I should be able to do this safely, now. If you happen to know what the PWM frequency is and some rough idea of duty cycle for full power and half power, that would be a big help but I can scope the working one I have still (I have one City with the stock charger and another with a replacement one both with Li batteries - 4 x Valence U27-12XP).

Thanks agian.

MW
I have a 2010 mega truck I have the same valence batteries on it, have you connected the leads on the battery to each other? if not do so it helps keep them in balance. My van was on diagnostics recently and all batteries were balanced and when I used the valence diagnostics the cells were balanced as well. My charging is done by solar and it seems to work very well, the standard charger is knackered but I wouldnt use it anyway as it charges at to high a voltage and could damage what are very expensive batteries. good luck with sorting out the car
 

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Check all the major 48V connections especially those to the motor (x 4). The cause should be pretty evident if you had a burning smell. I'd give all the rusty steelwork a good cotaing of Hamerite and/or Waxoyl whilst you have easy access. M
I've checked all the 48V connections, and the only thing that looks in any way suspicious is the one on top of the motor (viewed here from the offside front wheel arch:

125632


As you can see the plastic cap has obviously got very hot but the connection itself doesn't look damaged?

Is the next step to take the motor out and get it tested?
 

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Good point about the jacking up of the thing, although I don't know where you'd find that information given that all we have is the ICE manual, and the weight distribution in one of those is rather different.
 

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So I have been given a 2009 mega city e it has a missing curtis controller does anybody know the model number of this? also what amps it runs at my suspicion would be 400 amps which is what my Mega truck uses I believe, I also need a bonnet fo it as it was lost on the woodhead pass by the delivery guy. No real rush as its a project for later on I plan to fit lithiums in it for better range and lighter weight
 
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