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Discussion Starter #1
Because it seems I like pain in my life I have acquired a cheap truck! It came with cream crackered batteries but that wasnt really an issue, I have 12 valence batteries which I have fitted after modifying the battery tray. The truck goes ok but it has a fault on the battery charger I think, a relay clicks in when the drive batteries are connected so I will be looking for the problems tomorrow, as for charging I will be fitting 900 watts of solar on its roof so for the summer it will be sorted, tomorrow it will be taxed so its time to play...................slowly:ROFLMAO: its supposed to do nearly 30 flat out..........down a hill with the wind behind it
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Well a few months on and its hit and miss it charges up from solar ok, but sometimes it doesnt register it on the fuel gauge so it goes into limp home mode, next time I go to it it works great, strange fault but its still so much fun
 

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I have worked out how to get around the empty fuel gauge you disconnect 12v and 38 volt leads reconnect turn ignition on and pump the accelerator and voila it shows a full tank. I am now fitting to high amps cutoff switches in the battery leads proble solved anti theft devise and reset in one perfik:giggle:
 

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I have worked out how to get around the empty fuel gauge you disconnect 12v and 38 volt leads reconnect turn ignition on and pump the accelerator and voila it shows a full tank. I am now fitting to high amps cutoff switches in the battery leads proble solved anti theft devise and reset in one perfik:giggle:
Thanks for sharing, I have a similar problem where the truck will run smoothly and fine for the first 3 bars of the battery and as soon as it gets down to 3 remaining, it will drop to zero in no time. When you say, you disconnect and reconnect it back solves the problem and get the full battery level agin, but does it really give the the mileage run as full battery? Thanks!
 
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