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Discussion Starter #1
Hi folks. First post on here.
I've just bought an expert converted by allied electric vehicles.
It's been sat unplugged, unloved for several years in a garage and I've towed it home and am wondering where to start. It's obviously "dead" as far as dashboard lights go.
I'm reluctant to plug it straight in and see what happens.
I'm thinking of replacing the 12v battery/batteries and slowly waking it up.
Any advice would be welcomed.
I'm a technician in the renewables industry with a background in Marine engineering.
I've owned a Zoe and the wife drives an outlander Phev.
Thanks in anticipation.
Ian
 

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I'm not crazy, the attack has begun.
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Simply don't bother wasting your time or money.

Hopefully you paid so little for it that some other people with these that might be interested in parts.

My fundamental understanding, as far as it goes, is that Allied defrauded anyone who bought these from them, the Axeon battery packs they put together were sold to them on the basis that they would not be resold as vehicles. They sold them at auction without any clarifications to that effect, as far as I am aware, and purchasers passed them on without being aware of that.

What I do know is that I put due diligence in by contacting them and making sure they committed to servicing the thing and they said they could and they had parts. I consider that to be a flat out lie. They dumped any manufacturers responsibility like a lead balloon.
 

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Oh dear another one. OP search the forum we've been through this several times before. Reject the vehicle now if you still can.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for your replies.

🤣yes, I've been through the forum a bit and I'm not hugely surprised by these answers!

Background: I mess about with land rovers a bit. I've started building a long wheel base series 3. My plan is to make it either a hybrid or fully electric.
V8 petrol onto standard gearbox/transfer box with an electric motor driving into the transfer box PTO. Apparently land rover did this as an experiment in the 90s for the army to creep round northern Ireland.

The expert was bought mainly for parts - motor(possibly) - batteries, ancillaries, etc. But as it's complete at the moment, I'm wondering how best to wake it up and see what exactly I have. Even if I scrap it, I doubt I'll lose out financially.
Any dos and don'ts are welcomed.
 

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Don't bother with it - get rid while you can!

We have seen way more than 20 and have rejected any servicing or troubleshooting of these now for a couple of years.

The engineering is poor and you cannot get spares even if you can find the problem.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
 

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Hi Ian Just fit the largest FULLY CHARGED battery you have available, even with just jump leads, but disconnect original battery first, and turn on, position 1 You should here some relays kick in, turn key again as if starting a conventional car, and then release more relays, and humming, check power steering, waggle wheel. Check battery pack voltage on screen, and also check with a meter that auxiliary battery is also being charged. If main pack is over 250v put in gear and drive 6" if connected to jump leads, Either way, running or not, turn off, and attempt to charge. Everything that has been said about them is right, but if you want to cut your teeth on electric, its an ideal candidate, it appears you will be permanently under the bonnet. But if its a mistake, I would still be interested. good luck. Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks Dave.
I put a battery on it yesterday, woke it up and have discovered that the key needs programming. It's a new key as the old ones were lost and although it's been cut, it's not been programmed so the immobilizer is not allowing anything else to happen.
That aside, the main pack is showing 82%charge at 272volts and the brakes and power steering are working. Dc-dc isn't but that may be an immobilizer issue.
I think I'll get the key programmed and get a laptop onto it before I go further.
 

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Thanks Dave.
I put a battery on it yesterday, woke it up and have discovered that the key needs programming. It's a new key as the old ones were lost and although it's been cut, it's not been programmed so the immobilizer is not allowing anything else to happen.
That aside, the main pack is showing 82%charge at 272volts and the brakes and power steering are working. Dc-dc isn't but that may be an immobilizer issue.
I think I'll get the key programmed and get a laptop onto it before I go further.
There was no programming option on my key. I just had a regular blank cut* and it was fine. Only lost remote opening.

The way most of these things work is that the security feature is embedded into the ECU. As this does not have an original ECU then I'd wager this is probably some failure of the 'defeat' mechanism Allied put in place to circumvent the usual chassis control unit.

You can give it a go, but when you plug into OBD I think you will find the OBD plug is not actually attached to anything!!

*(only one key provided ... I should have walked away from 'just one key'. All the signs were there, I was an idiot buying it. I had promises of repair options, which came to naught.)
 
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