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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Whilst waiting for the hours and days to go by for an EV, how is my electrical looking at home for an EV charge point?

I think the meter is a smart type one. Is that right?

Comments and observations welcome. Thank you.

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Looks ok from a photo. I’m hoping your mains there is on an external wall, if so you’ll probably have a straightforward installation.
Looks like there is room for a little db to go near the Main consumer unit.
You don’t have an isolator but that’s never stopped a cunning electrician before.
 

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The only obstacle may be the smart meter. For the likes of octopus go or other cheap night rate tariffs, it might be the wrong generation of smart meter. But that is not essential straight away and the fuse is fine.
I am probably in the same boat, as I think my smart meter is too old, but my car does not arrive until next year so I'm not worried.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Looks ok from a photo. I’m hoping your mains there is on an external wall . . .
Looks like there is room for a little db to go near the Main consumer unit.
You don’t have an isolator
It is an external wall, but inside a conservatory.
a little db?? Would you enlighten me please as to what that is?
What is an isolator?
sorry for so many questions but your help is much appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Looking at that main fuse there's not even any need to call upon the powers of Amelie . . . *





*from the book, Amelie the Seal Fairy
You’ve lost me here!
 

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You’ve lost me here!

The law states that no one, other than someone specifically authorised by the DNO, is allowed to remove a main fuse. It's a law that is noted for being broken by every electrician in the land, because frankly it's unworkable, and there needs to be a way to quickly and easily isolate the supply before doing any work on the tails, just for safety, and waiting half a day or more for the DNO to turn out isn't really sensible. However, because no one is going to openly admit to breaking the law by pulling a fuse, there are several slightly obtuse ways that doing this is referred to in public.

To pull the fuse normally means cutting the fuse holder seal. In your case someone's already been at it and cut that seal, and it wasn't the DNO, as they always fit a new seal. Around here, the illicit cutting of the DNO fuse holder seal to pull the fuse is often referred to as "calling on the powers of Amelie", after the children's book, "Amelie the Seal fairy". In fact the DNO here are pretty OK about doing this anyway, and always grant consent to pull the fuse after a phone call, in my experience. They also log this so that the next time they have someone in the area they can pop in and fit a new seal to the fuse.

If there's an isolator switch fitted after the meter, then things are a lot easier, as the supply can be safely isolated to work on just by using that. Isolators are being fitted by some suppliers, and some suppliers will fit one for free, or for a small charge, if asked (varies a lot from one supplier to another, though).
 

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DB is your consumer Distribution Board.
Isolator is a switch to cut the power between the fuse, meter and distribution board.
What type of charger are you looking at?
Your DNO or electric supplier will let you know if you have a smart meter.
 

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It is an external wall, but inside a conservatory.
a little db?? Would you enlighten me please as to what that is?
What is an isolator?
sorry for so many questions but your help is much appreciated.
A distribution board. You could use the existing consumer unit if you changed the rcd to a type A on that side of the board. It’s upto your chosen installer really.
 

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The law states that no one, other than someone specifically authorised by the DNO, is allowed to remove a main fuse. It's a law that is noted for being broken by every electrician in the land, because frankly it's unworkable, and there needs to be a way to quickly and easily isolate the supply before doing any work on the tails, just for safety, and waiting half a day or more for the DNO to turn out isn't really sensible. However, because no one is going to openly admit to breaking the law by pulling a fuse, there are several slightly obtuse ways that doing this is referred to in public.

To pull the fuse normally means cutting the fuse holder seal. In your case someone's already been at it and cut that seal, and it wasn't the DNO, as they always fit a new seal. Around here, the illicit cutting of the DNO fuse holder seal to pull the fuse is often referred to as "calling on the powers of Amelie", after the children's book, "Amelie the Seal fairy". In fact the DNO here are pretty OK about doing this anyway, and always grant consent to pull the fuse after a phone call, in my experience. They also log this so that the next time they have someone in the area they can pop in and fit a new seal to the fuse.

If there's an isolator switch fitted after the meter, then things are a lot easier, as the supply can be safely isolated to work on just by using that. Isolators are being fitted by some suppliers, and some suppliers will fit one for free, or for a small charge, if asked (varies a lot from one supplier to another, though).
most customers don’t want to fork out for an isolator in my experience.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I have to say a big thank you to everyone. This is a steep learning curve and interesting.

I assume that there are no consequences for not having a seal?

It will be a BP Pulse unit being fitted, via, you guessed it, Motability. I suspect they will demand an isolation switch.
 

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I assume that there are no consequences for not having a seal?
Technically there is a slim chance that you could be investigated for electricity theft, although if there is no other evidence to support this then I very much doubt that it would happen. The only time I've heard of it happening has been when there have been other reasons to suspect electricity theft, and the lack of the seals on the fuse has been the clinching evidence. There's a device available (illicitly) that consists of a modified fuse holder with a connection for a cable to bypass the meter. To fit this in place of the fuseholder means cutting the seals, to remove the fuse holder so it can be swapped for the modified one. Most common use for these now is probably cannabis grow houses, where they need a lot of power to run the grow lights.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I can’t wait to get this ball rolling in a couple of weeks time. I feel much better prepared for what is going to happen.

It’s like a dark secret to EV ownership, all this electrical stuff. I am a happy consumer and customer who hasn’t really given much thought to what might be involved. Blissfully ignorant.

My electrician has quoted me for doing the preparatory work. Let’s see how BP get on.
 
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Whilst waiting for the hours and days to go by for an EV, how is my electrical looking at home for an EV charge point?

I think the meter is a smart type one. Is that right?

Comments and observations welcome. Thank you.

View attachment 151293

View attachment 151294
View attachment 151295
The meter looks like a SMETS1 secure. The good news is that these meters can be switched to Octopus if still in SMETS1 mode, or to any supplier if they have been migrated to the DCC.

You can check if your meter is migrated to the DCC and sending them data here Energy Tool (citizensadvice.org.uk)

Octopus had a notice on their website saying "don't switch", but changing to Octopus GO may be beneficial if you will use more than about 25% of your electricity off-peak.

edit - crossed with phproxy!
 

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Unfortunately that is the rating of the fuse holder, not the rating of the fuse inside!
Sorry - misunderstood the 'seal fairy'.
After around 45 years in the game I'm pretty aware of the max fuse capacity rating on the side of BS1361 fuse holder!

Not sure what you're on about, TBH, as I made zero reference to the fitted fuse rating anyway.
 

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It is an external wall, but inside a conservatory.
a little db?? Would you enlighten me please as to what that is?
What is an isolator?
sorry for so many questions but your help is much appreciated.
By "little DB" referring to the favoured installation approach of taking the tails after the meter into henley blocks and feeding the house and a new, small, distribution board dedicated to the EV charge point. There are two main benefits of this. First you're not dragging 32A through the house board, which inevitably generates heat. Second once an electrician tampers with that board they then have to certify the whole electrical installation. Much better to leave that well alone and fit something dedicated if you have the space. It's better in every way apart from needing the extra physical thing.

It's almost certainly what any installer will propose doing.
 

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After around 45 years in the game I'm pretty aware of the max fuse capacity rating on the side of BS1361 fuse holder!

Not sure what you're on about, TBH, as I made zero reference to the fitted fuse rating anyway.
I apologise, I saw your reference to the fuse holder and didn't understand the 'seal fairy' reference. I thought you were saying the 100A rating was Ok.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks for all this information everyone.
 
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