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Any one thought off trying a liion?
Should be good for 10 years?
Plus about the same price?
Also lighter?
Think I'll give it a try once this one drops too low, it's not waterproof but as it's in cabin it won't matter
If you look in the Tesla Roadster threads they have been fitting them there. The batteries are far more expensive and my main worry is that they don't seem to have any BMS protection or if they do it is not mentioned.
LiIon are very sensitive to voltage both charge and discharge and should be behind a charge controller specific to that batteries chemistry as some Lithium top out at 4.2v yet others such as LiFePo4 that I use max out at 3.6v per cell.
 

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As quite a few people seem to be doing this, I thought I'd post the details.

1) Unlock car, switch off. Remove floor panel in boot. 4 nuts, M10 I think, 1 in each corner.
2) Undo & remove the -ve cable.
3) Remove the vent pipe.
4) Unclip (2 tabs I think) the large plastic fuse-box thing on top of battery and open CAREFULLY.
5) Undo & remove the +ve cable-clamp attaching it to battery, & move it to one side. There's a tricky little clip
thing at the side of the battery at the bottom which needs moving probably.
6) Unclip the plastic fusebox & move it out of the way.
7) There's a hex screw holding the battery-strap to metal below battery, Undo & remove strap.
8) Lift battery out, replace & assembly is the reverse of the above.
Anyone know what to do if step 1 is impossible. Voltage dropped to 10v on mine just before I got the order in and now I can’t unlock the boot. I’ve plugged in and will see if it charges again, but if not !... can it be opened by crawling in through the back seat?


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Anyone know what to do if step 1 is impossible. Voltage dropped to 10v on mine just before I got the order in and now I can’t unlock the boot. I’ve plugged in and will see if it charges again, but if not !... can it be opened by crawling in through the back seat?


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You can unlock the drivers door with the key, pull the bonnet release, then jump start the car with the 12v terminals under the bonnet. Once powered up the DC-DC converter will start charging the 12v
 

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I’m thinking if can use jump leads from the new battery when it arrives I can maybe get the vehicle to power up, then I’ll be ok.


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If you have a 12v battery charger you might be able to connect it up to the jump start terminals to charge the battery enough to power it up?
 

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Anyone know what to do if step 1 is impossible. Voltage dropped to 10v on mine just before I got the order in and now I can’t unlock the boot. I’ve plugged in and will see if it charges again, but if not !... can it be opened by crawling in through the back seat?


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Looks like it can be opened manually from inside the boot - if you have the right size implement


Though I think I'd prefer to hook up your new battery under the bonnet and then release the boot electronically like you suggested.
 

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The original battery was an AC Delco fitted at the factory , if it was replaced by GM , In my case a MY12 car sold in December 14 it was replaced with a GM battery before sale I am surmising as part of PDI. The original AC Delco batteries are only sold in the USA , if yours was replaced by a GM dealer it will have a GM Label on it and it will be an AGM type
 

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My Jump leads are buried somewhere in the garage under a ton of stuff my son is storing in there, so I tried a simple 12 v battery charger to the jump posts under the bonnet. It took an hour or so but then it booted up and I could get the main battery charge to start which gave it more of a boost for a short while as it virtually full anyway.
Now I have access and the new battery has arrived so it should be easy from here on out...


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It was! All done and dusted everything is working again, no software hiccups. It was an ACDelco from the US so 7 years and 2 months plus a few months before the car was delivered, no doubt, is not bad going. The OVMS sent an alert to my phone so I know it just happened only this week, even though it has struggled to hold 12.0 v when parked for a while since 5 years ago settling to 11.8 or 11.9v typically. It dropped to 10.0v suddenly this time, and that is clearly one cell completely died.

I chose the Lucas AGM one as others have done. Good value, exact fit, totally happy.

The instructions were helpful. Thank you. A good confidence boost. I wouldn’t have tried to do it any differently if I had to work it out for myself, I would just have taken more time to be sure.


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So, after exactly one month of ownership, I've finally gotten round to lifting the boot floor of our MY12 / Reg May 2012 / 71k miles Ampera to find our battery is an original. Seems some of them do last!

Anyway, based on all the advice here I'm going to do a preemptive replacement. I'm going to pop down to Halfords just to see what they've got in stock and at what price, but will probably end up ordering the Varta D52.


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Your old battery has some scrap value at a proper metals recycling outfit, such as you'ld find in a large industrial city. I've used one in Derby very profitably in the past, plenty of others around.
Interesting, I wasn't aware of that. Looks like they're worth about a fiver? There's a scrap metal place near me and if they take them and I'm passing soon, I'll pop it in. Otherwise it'll go in our next run to the tip.

As a side-note, Halfords do not stock an obviously suitable battery, as confirmed by their Reg checker and a peruse through their catalogue. Ordered a Varta from Tayna.
 

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When I had source one I noted that Halfords didn't have one, certainly in stock. Also the battery I pulled out was a Halfords battery supposedly only six months old. Made me think the previous owner just picked any battery that they could buy in store when the previous one went flat.

Hence getting mine from Eurocarparts.
 

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Your old battery has some scrap value at a proper metals recycling outfit, such as you'ld find in a large industrial city. I've used one in Derby very profitably in the past, plenty of others around.
Ordered new Lucas AGM from Tayna last Wednesday delivered yesterday lunchtime fitted by teatime using Andy's guide, really easy to do. Car had an AC Delco fitted so probably original, mileage 56500. and am only changing, " just in case "
 

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Discussion Starter #116
After 3 years use, my Bosch S5 005 battery has displayed 11.8V on a couple of occasions recently. Car has been in regular use, so it's not likely to be some vampire drain. A session on a battery charger seems to have pushed it over 12V again, but I'm not taking any risks, so have just ordered a LF027 Lucas Fusion AGM 12V 60Ah battery to replace it. Cost from Tayna was £95.27 all-in, including small discount using promo code FACEBOOK45 on the payment page.

Acc to Tayna, this batteyr is suitable for stop-start use, whereas the Bosch isn't. Quite what this means I don't know, except it suggests the new AGM one is maybe a better spec.

I looked at the Leisure batteries, but they seem to be around £130 all-in, so I don't think I can justify the extra tbh. If it lasts me the next 4 years I'll be happy; might be thinking about retiring the Amp around then.
 

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Stop start is as far from the ideal Ampera battery as you can get. It is precisely what you don't need, with all the disadvantages for that unnecessary capability.

EVs should use deep discharge batteries. Ampera should have an AGM battery by preference.
 

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Stop start is as far from the ideal Ampera battery as you can get. It is precisely what you don't need, with all the disadvantages for that unnecessary capability.

EVs should use deep discharge batteries. Ampera should have an AGM battery by preference.
This is true but based on my experience with buying batteries for the domestic electricity supply on my narrow boat, I have learned that almost any good well made quality product will be capable of deep discharge cycles. Unfortunately, this does not necessarily mean paying out the most money - I had early failures with so called 'AGM Leisure Batteries' that cost over £400 each and the best I have had yet are some Bosch (made by Varta) heavy duty starting batteries designed for trucks and those were a little over £100 each.
 

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I have previously aspoued my recommendation for EVs, and the logic for it: Deep discharge VRLAs, aka scooter traction batteries.
 

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Any battery with LEISURE in the description is aimed at old folk who they makers assume won't be technically savvy. The term is strictly marketing bait. Discuss!
 
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