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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, I've been trying to research this, but no posts directly correlate with my issue. Many people don't like the strength of the heater but I've always loved it. However, my ampera has now lost all heating.

The 'heating' symbol shows as 'on' on the dash, for 10-20 seconds, but then turns off. No heat comes out of the vents at all. I've tried it on max, and on all settings.

It feels like an electrical issue to me, however the only other related symptom I have is that I'm losing coolant from the rad, very slowly. I have to top it up every month or so. However even when completely full, there is still no heat.

Any ideas?
135745
 

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Ampera aka IGOR
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If you have a later model with the power-flow display below the speedo then whilst stationary before driving anywhere try this. Power up and select the power-flow display to see what power is being used. It should sit about 0.5. Then turn up the heater to full, as you have showing there and check the power being used. Keep watching it until the heating symbol goes to off and check power again. If it goes up a bit when you turn the heat up (not sure of the rate it will show) then the electrical heater is working and it could be the circulation pump. I have heard of someone running it with the temp and blower both set to high and set to demist and that was enough to kick the pump back into action after a few minutes.
If you don't have the power-flow then try the demist fix and see if it helps.
That's all that I can think of but keep us updated, it might help someone else.
 

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Hi I’ve had my ampera for 5-1/2 years and the heating has always not worked on Electric mode
it does the same the heating symbol comes on but go off again about 1 minute later
I haven’t ever had to top up any fluids so no leaks
it makes it quite dangerous in winter when your windscreen is iced up
I have check everything I could but cant see why it’s not working. I hope you can get your sorted. Ian
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys. Unfortunately my line is a 2012 model so I don't think it has the power flow thing. Also,. I've always got full heating power on electric only mode, so not sure why it's stopped. I have obviously tried it with engine only and still no joy.

I'll try googling the demisting trick to see if I can find what technique that is. Any other ideas are very welcome and I'll let everyone know my fix whatever it may be.
 

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Hmm, this car usually manages to turn on the engine warning light at the slightest sign of any malfunction! All I can suggest is go through the fuses in the 3 fuseboxes dotted around, maybe there's one related to a heater element or similar. Do you have the 75 MB Service Manual PDF? There's a wealth of info in there.
 

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Hi James
Just a thought. Is it possible that when you had your coolant leak it has air locked the heater matrix? That would explain why you are not getting any warmth at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Definitely may be an air block. How would one check and get rid of any air block? Or is it a dealer thing. Is there a bleed valve?
 

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I've checked all fuses for every heating/climate/fan type circuit I can find, with no issues. I think the airlock might be a good thing to consider.
 

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I had a radiator go and the first thing I noticed was the heater stopped working. When I filled it back up there was a lot of gurgling from in the dash.
If I remember rightly I was advised to put it into mountain mode and give it a blast up the motorway to get the engine water pump to spin and flush out the air.
 

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Ampera aka IGOR
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The only other thing I can think of to help with diagnosis is if you have an Android mobile you invest in a Bluetooth dongle and download the free app MyGreenVolt, more details here MyGreenVolt Free Download
It will help with some more information and you can also get the Torque Lite app which can help read and clear error codes.
 

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Take it to a garage and have them pressure test the system. They may even do this for free... Then you'll know what to do next.

Fix the leak, then you can move onto the next issue. But my guess is that it's just low coolant. Heater is towards the top so will soon boil off if low and cut out. You may also hear the coolant pump cavitating if lacking coolant. Stick your ear near front right wheel well when in EV mode.

Cheers,
Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks guys, you are all triggering thoughts for me. I have Torque Pro and MyGreenVolt. I can't see any obvious leaks, so I reckon I might just have let the coolant get mega low, then when I've topped it up its left air lock in the system. I think I'll try the tip to mash it around some difficult steep lanes on mountain mode to get the pump pumping away, then top up etc, and completely fill her up. Then see if it changes the heater. If yes, but it goes cold after a few journeys, I'll know I have a further leak. If it doesn't fix it at all, I'll have to take it into a dealer and have them look at it (and watch my wallet burn).
 

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See this Heating Circuits check the cabin heating diagram (The Engine Cooling System and Heater Loop)
The cabin heating flow valve may have failed - in this case the electric heater reaches temperature but no water is circulated and the heater turns off. It will come on for a short time only.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks! That's a great idea Spiny. I've temporarily fixed the problem by topping up another 2 litres of coolant. Just so future people with similar problems find a temporary fix, I topped the coolant up to max level (it was just below minimum) and the heater instantly worked again.

I am hoping that I had not 'circulated' enough coolant throughout the system when I last topped it up (twice in about 1 month), therefore it topped it up, but then slowly decreased in level as the coolant flowed through the system gradually (as I cannot bleed it myself). Worst case, I have a coolant leak and need to get that found!

What is everyone's thoughts on rad weld? Long term damage, or fine for small leaks long term?
 

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I'm away at the moment but I must look at this thread when I get back as my heating doesn't work on electric but is fine on ICE (IIRC). I mentioned it to Bellinger when it went on for service but I think it go t overlooked and I forgot to follow up. But as they've had it recently I suspect I don't have a fluid shortage as the problem well pre-dated it's (5th) service.
 
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