[Ambassador Spock]

I got my Zoe ZE40 two weeks ago and when I picked it up the dealer said "Car first always" (when charging plug the cable into the car first and wall second, and when finished unplug from the car first and the wall second.) Yet on these forums and others I have seen many posts about different plugging orders - today I saw a post saying to always plug into the charge point first and then the car second, and when done unplug from the care first then the charge point. Still others have advocated "Wall first always"... Is there any definitive answer to this question? Or does it depend on the car and/or charge point? Or does it not actually matter in the end?

 

[Aragorn]

i just stuff them in whichever way and thus far havent had issue. Given tethered chargers exist, "always car first" or "always wall first" doesnt really make sense, does it?

 

[AlGrsn]

The "charger" (actually power supply) really should be booted up before plugging into the car receptacle. Its microcomputer is then up and running to detect the car signal. Hardwired charge points are already "plugged in" so it would seem reasonable to plug a portable charge point into the mains receptacle before plugging into the car receptacle. In my limited experience it makes no difference.

 

[ArthurGreenWorld]

As said earlier... that is for ze50.. had ze40 for 2 years and it was same instruction.

 

[Ambassador Spock]

Interesting, that is good to know. FWIW, I charge using a granny cable (no real need for fast charging) so I'm not sure if that makes any difference. I'll try it the other way (wall first, then car) tonight and see if anything changes.

 

[ArthurGreenWorld]

With a granny you need to plug it into the wall 1st and turn it on... it runs a check.. then plug into car

 

[Ambassador Spock]

With a granny you need to plug it into the wall 1st and turn it on... it runs a check.. then plug into car

I've been doing "Car First" since I got it two weeks ago (granted, I've only actually plugged it in 4-5 times) and it has had no issues at all. But I'll try that method tonight. I'm taking it on my first "big trip" (where I will have to charge at a public charge point for an hour or so) this Saturday, so I'd like to make sure I do everything correctly.

 

[ArthurGreenWorld]

Make sure .. again with a granny... when charge is complete or you want to stop it... disconnect from car before you turn off the granny at the wall socket

 

[ColA]

With a Commando 16 amp lead used for caravans and motorhomes you ALWAYS plug into the van first because that has the pins and they could be live if you plugged into the supply first. With EVs there is a communication between vehicle and supply which will only deliver power once the whole circuit is complete, therefore I can’t see that it matters which goes first but maybe the caution is due to a false belief that the pins could be live before inserting.

 

[AlGrsn]

The power contacts/pins must not be energized until after the charge point ("charger") is plugged in and the handheld connector plug is fully inserted and the lock enabled. The only live contacts are the communication contacts until the charge point has "shaken hands" with the car. If everything is good, the power is turned on.
For quick charging (L3) the voltage is greater than the traction battery voltage, around 400 volts. The trickle (L1) and regular (L2) provide AC power to the onboard charger. We don't want ANY power on the handheld plug until it is locked into the car receptacle.

 

[Aragorn]

FWIW, i use a "Sonoff" device to kill the power to the controller in my EVSE, so when i plug the car in in the evening, its connected to a "dead" charger. At midnight the Sonoff switches the controller on. It all starts up and charges no problem.
Similarly i would expect a granny charger to behave the same way if it was connected to the car but not powered.
Certain combinations of car and charger might have an issue, but generally it will just work no matter which way around you connect everything together.
The main thing you want to avoid, is switching off a granny lead at the outlet while its actively charging. Not because the charger or car will care, but because the switch contacts in the socket wont appreciate having to break full load current, and over time you'll ruin them.

 

[Ambassador Spock]

The power contacts/pins must not be energized until after the charge point ("charger") is plugged in and the handheld connector plug is fully inserted and the lock enabled. The only live contacts are the communication contacts until the charge point has "shaken hands" with the car. If everything is good, the power is turned on.
For quick charging (L3) the voltage is greater than the traction battery voltage, around 400 volts. The trickle (L1) and regular (L2) provide AC power to the onboard charger. We don't want ANY power on the handheld plug until it is locked into the car receptacle.

So it seems like you are saying the same thing as the dealer - plug the granny cable into the car first, and then the wall?

 

[Aragorn]

With a Commando 16 amp lead used for caravans and motorhomes you ALWAYS plug into the van first because that has the pins and they could be live if you plugged into the supply first. With EVs there is a communication between vehicle and supply which will only deliver power once the whole circuit is complete, therefore I can’t see that it matters which goes first but maybe the caution is due to a false belief that the pins could be live before inserting.

The socket end of a commando lead is no different to the socket end of a normal mains extension cord. There are no exposed live pins, its all fairly well shrouded against accidental touch. These are industrial connectors and are fairly idiot proof as a result.

 

[Aragorn]

So it seems like you are saying the same thing as the dealer - plug the granny cable into the car first, and then the wall?

no, hes saying, in a slightly strange way, that the protocol involved means that no power appears on the cable until the two parts (car and EVSE) have chatted with each other and are happy.

The worst that can happen if you plugged it in "wrong", is one of the two sides decides "dont like that" and simply doesnt start charging. Theres no safety issue.

 

[Ambassador Spock]

no, hes saying, in a slightly strange way, that the protocol involved means that no power appears on the cable until the two parts (car and EVSE) have chatted with each other and are happy.

The worst that can happen if you plugged it in "wrong", is one of the two sides decides "dont like that" and simply doesnt start charging. Theres no safety issue.

Oh okay, that does make sense, thanks.

 

[Scrooge]

Certainly with my crappy EV, I have come across one bank of chargers where the order is charger first, car second. Every other charger I’ve tried does not care. And there are some that don’t work for me at all. Cheers

 

[ColA]

The socket end of a commando lead is no different to the socket end of a normal mains extension cord. There are no exposed live pins, its all fairly well shrouded against accidental touch. These are industrial connectors and are fairly idiot proof as a result.

Yes the socket end is shrouded but I was talking about the plug end which Is very exposed to fingers. If you plug the supply end in first you have a safety risk.

 

[Duncan]

Yes the socket end is shrouded but I was talking about the plug end which Is very exposed to fingers. If you plug the supply end in first you have a safety risk.

rubbish. The live pins are not active until the car and charger have negotiated an appropriate power level.

 

[ColA]

rubbish. The live pins are not active until the car and charger have negotiated an appropriate power level.

Seems like nobody read what I wrote. I was talking about commando plugs and leads in a totally different context and the reason that some people may believe that you should plug into the car first. We have established about ten times in this thread that with EV charging nothing happens until both ends are plugged in so it doesn’t matter which way round.

 

[Aragorn]

the plug end is an inlet, why would it be live?

Mains systems are ALWAYS designed such that the "exposed live pins" can never happen...