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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm planning a DIY EVSE around the Mainpine protocol controller.

Has anyone added meters? I'm thinking about adding some metering. Amps, Volts, kWh....

There are many possibilities.

This din rail current and voltage meter is in an attractive package

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-D..._Measurement_Equipment_ET&hash=item20e4638c8b

I'm a little worried about the quality and safety of an inexpensive Chinese meter though. I'm willing to pay a bit more for something that IS known to be reliable.
 

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I'm a little worried about the quality and safety of an inexpensive Chinese meter though. I'm willing to pay a bit more for something that IS known to be reliable.
I used something very similar and it was excellent and almost as accurate as my calibrated bench meters :)

I particularly like the fact that the current measurement is via the cable passing through the device keeping the high current cabling to a minimum.
 

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You could use one of the wireless clamp-on consumer monitoring devices - then at least the cheap chinese bit isn't in the high-current path, and they often provide more information than instantaneous readings. Would save fiddling around in the charger/consumer unit, you could use it from indoors :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I went ahead and bought the inexpensive eBay meter.

then at least the cheap chinese bit isn't in the high-current path,
The cheap chinese meter has an internal current transformer or maybe a hall sensor.

The cable passes through a hole in the unit. There is no interruption of the current path.






 

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Interesting idea - I'm just about to install a miniature 5mm 7 segment display into mine to show the selected charge rate. A hall-effect sensor and a bit of hacking with the open energy monitor code and could do both. Another thing to add to the list ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I took a long time selecting a box. Adding the current voltage display means I need a wider box.

I almost settled on a Hammond 1554V2GYCL. The 1554xxxxCL series is IP56, has a clear lid and has DIN rail mounting bosses. Careful measuring found it was going to be about 1mm to short. The lid might have kept the RCBO Kevin gave me from tripping. The meter was also with 1mm of the top of the lid.

Hammond (and others) resell a Chinese 1554 clone that has a raised lid. I've never used them. They are IP55 rated and probably not as well made as the ones made by Hammond.

I spent some time browsing catalogs and chose a Schnider "Spacial" NSYSBMB 203012. It is a heavy IP55 steel box with a window in the lid.

I dry fitted the parts in it this afternoon. Need to get a hole saw for the cable glands. I was going to get a 28.2mm punch until I saw the gland plates. They are way to thick for a cheap 'eBay' punch.




 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The meter is about 530mm wide. I think it is 3 units wide.

Yes the box is on the big side. I'd rather have had some thing a little smaller, but couldn't find exactly what I wanted.

In the system I choose this is the smallest box that has a clear window.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
in China the have many factory make different qualities products, you can pay high price to buy a high quality product, or pay cheap buy a fake goods.
Very true. I've even seen the fakes in different levels of quality.

"You get what you pay for"
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I finally had a chance to do most of the wiring.


Disclaimer: This photo is for general information only and should not be used as a wiring guide.


 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
No connection:




Charge:
I noticed the current ramps up from 28.9A to about 29.5A and then quickly drops back to 28.9A. Car was around 70% SOC when I started the charge.


 
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