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VW ID.3 MAX Pro Performance
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Cold and frosty morning, so I went to turn on the pre-heat from the app. I got an error message saying "12 volt battery voltage is too low. It will be recharged when you drive the car.". Surely the air conditioning is not powered from the 12 volt battery?? And why doesn't charging from the HV battery happen if necessary while the car is in the garage? I never had similar problems with the Leaf.

When I got out to the car, gripping the door handle to unlock the car did nothing! I had to use the unlock function on the key fob. After that the car started OK, the air con came on and I was able to drive the car without a problem. It was only a short journey to the local supermarket, and when I arrived the door handle functions worked normally and no more problems. The car is back in the garage.

So was it the low temperature (minus something overnight) causing it to think there was a battery problem, or what?
 

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Kia Soul EV 2020
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I will preface this by saying: my car is Kia.
But this is a common error message when you interrupt the 12v battery conditioning cycle. But otherwise there's nothing wrong. Is it possible the ID3 is the same?
 

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ID.3 Tour
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What software are you on?

We had a similar issue about a year ago (on 2.1 IIRC) but it was down to a dodgy controller that was changed under warranty.

The traction battery should keep the 12v battery topped up even when it's not being driven.
 

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Cold and frosty morning, so I went to turn on the pre-heat from the app. I got an error message saying "12 volt battery voltage is too low. It will be recharged when you drive the car.". Surely the air conditioning is not powered from the 12 volt battery??
There's a traction battery (~400V) and a peripherals battery (12V). The 12V is required to run everything. Unless you've got a heat pump, the aircon won't be a heat exchanger but actually an electrical heater.
 

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VW ID.3 MAX Pro Performance
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
There's a traction battery (~400V) and a peripherals battery (12V). The 12V is required to run everything. Unless you've got a heat pump, the aircon won't be a heat exchanger but actually an electrical heater.
Well I know about the batteries, and I would hope I have a heat pump - that's a pretty basic piece of equipment. Which model of ID.3 do you have? Just to make sure, I have seen diagrams of where to check in the front compartment where the heat pump is. I will do that tomorrow, just to be sure.
 

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Well I know about the batteries, and I would hope I have a heat pump - that's a pretty basic piece of equipment. Which model of ID.3 do you have? Just to make sure, I have seen diagrams of where to check in the front compartment where the heat pump is. I will do that tomorrow, just to be sure.
Unless you specced a heat pump, you won't have a heat pump - optional extra on the ID3 at all trim levels.
 

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VW ID.3 Family Pro Performance (Jan 22, software 3.0 OTA)
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Well I know about the batteries, and I would hope I have a heat pump - that's a pretty basic piece of equipment. Which model of ID.3 do you have? Just to make sure, I have seen diagrams of where to check in the front compartment where the heat pump is. I will do that tomorrow, just to be sure.
Heat pumps were an option on all ID3s in the UK and most people didn't spec them because after not very long it became clear their benefit had been oversold. VW actually dropped the price after a while and compensated people who had bought them at the original price. I looked in to it when I ordered mine (mid 2021) but by then the strong consensus amongst customers was "don't bother". You might have one but if it wasn't specifically mentioned in the spec when you bought, then it's unlikely.
I believe this is the case in all MEB platform cars. They tend to be specced as standard in Nordic countries, Switzerland and maybe Austria but not elsewhere because they only provide a significant benefit when it's very cold.

If I were you,if the warning recurs I would get in touch with the dealer. It shouldn't do that. When everything is working properly the 12V is kept topped up by the HV battery. I have seen a couple of other people report this after the 2.4 update so it's not unique, but not common. I'm afraid I'm not sure if they had a straightforward solution. I think they were on the ID Driver's Club Facebook group.

(Edited, sorry, feeling a bit slow this evening!)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Having looked into this further and read the above posts, I see that the heat pump is an option. It was standard on the model of Leaf I had, so I assumed it would be standard equipment on the Max. Since I am the second owner of this ID.3, I don't know if a heat pump was spec'ed. I did say I had seen a diagram of where the heat pump if present is located under the bonnet, but I can't find it now. So if some kind soul can tell me where it is, I would be grateful.

Secondly, although the error message I got was related to the 12V battery, please reassure me that resistive heating, if there is no heat pump, comes from the HV battery.
 

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2020 VW ID3
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Having looked into this further and read the above posts, I see that the heat pump is an option. It was standard on the model of Leaf I had, so I assumed it would be standard equipment on the Max. Since I am the second owner of this ID.3, I don't know if a heat pump was spec'ed. I did say I had seen a diagram of where the heat pump if present is located under the bonnet, but I can't find it now. So if some kind soul can tell me where it is, I would be grateful.

Secondly, although the error message I got was related to the 12V battery, please reassure me that resistive heating, if there is no heat pump, comes from the HV battery.
Simple test for the presence of a heat pump is possible right now because of the very cold weather.

Set the car to pre-heat using the app. Go outside after ten minutes and look. If it's making a noise like a small donkey engine (or a huge fridge) it has a heat pump.
 

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VW ID.3 Family Pro Performance (Jan 22, software 3.0 OTA)
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Simple test for the presence of a heat pump is possible right now because of the very cold weather.

Set the car to pre-heat using the app. Go outside after ten minutes and look. If it's making a noise like a small donkey engine (or a huge fridge) it has a heat pump.
It does sometimes make quite a noise anyway...
 

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There's an option in the WeConnectID app "Optimised battery use". When set to on, I believe this allows for app-related actions (like turning the AC on) to use power from the HV battery rather than 12v. At least that's what the description in the app implies. I have mine set to on and I've never had any problems and frequently use the app to pre-condition on a cold morning.
 

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There's an option in the WeConnectID app "Optimised battery use". When set to on, I believe this allows for app-related actions (like turning the AC on) to use power from the HV battery rather than 12v. At least that's what the description in the app implies. I have mine set to on and I've never had any problems and frequently use the app to pre-condition on a cold morning.
That feature doesn't exist until you get 3.0+
 

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Cars without heat pump (like mine) definitely make a noise when you turn on the heating circuit from outside. It's not super loud but it's very noticeable in an empty car park.
We'll you can just about hear the A/C fan , if that's what you mean. The heat pump makes a definite louder mechanical noise.

If you're really stuck, take a look at a similar thread last week where there are pictures of the under bonnet view of cars with and without heat pumps. I supplied the "with" pictures.
 

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Hyundai Ioniq 5 AWD
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Secondly, although the error message I got was related to the 12V battery, please reassure me that resistive heating, if there is no heat pump, comes from the HV battery.
I could be wrong of course, but my understanding is that none of the car's ancillary systems such as fans, wipers, lights, screens etc can run from the traction battery voltage. I suspect that this includes any heating system on board as well. All such features use 12v at various amperages. What happens is that the DC to DC converter is energised to match the demand from such high-powered units so that the 12v battery is used as a 'buffer' only and won't drain rapidly as an equal amount of energy is being sent to that 12v battery as the heater is taking out. Status quo.

So, you are partly right. Resistive heating energy ultimately comes from the traction battery. Just via the 12v battery. But if that 12v battery is too low at the outset of a demand that often has weird and wonderful effects in misc other parts of the car. I would advise you to pay close attention to the health of the 12v battery as it may need a session on a modern 'smart' charger to repair and condition before fully charging on a planned regime as decided by that smart unit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
We'll you can just about hear the A/C fan , if that's what you mean. The heat pump makes a definite louder mechanical noise.

If you're really stuck, take a look at a similar thread last week where there are pictures of the under bonnet view of cars with and without heat pumps. I supplied the "with" pictures.
That's what I was looking for but couldn't remember where I'd seen it.
 

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Heat pumps were an option on all ID3s in the UK and most people didn't spec them because after not very long it became clear their benefit had been oversold. VW actually dropped the price after a while and compensated people who had bought them at the original price. I looked in to it when I ordered mine (mid 2021) but by then the strong consensus amongst customers was "don't bother". You might have one but if it wasn't specifically mentioned in the spec when you bought, then it's unlikely.
I believe this is the case in all MEB platform cars. They tend to be specced as standard in Nordic countries, Switzerland and maybe Austria but not elsewhere because they only provide a significant benefit when it's very cold.

If I were you,if the warning recurs I would get in touch with the dealer. It shouldn't do that. When everything is working properly the 12V is kept topped up by the HV battery. I have seen a couple of other people report this after the 2.4 update so it's not unique, but not common. I'm afraid I'm not sure if they had a straightforward solution. I think they were on the ID Driver's Club Facebook group.

(Edited, sorry, feeling a bit slow this evening!)
I have had this issue recently, and I'm on V3.0 in the car. It was telling me to set the optimise battery setting in the app, which I did. I'm not sure why this is necessary as I also thought that the 400V battery topped up the 12V battery if it went low?
 
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