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Discussion Starter #1
Right so I will admit maybe I should know this but my last car had climate control so I never used to think about it and forgot how.

The windscreen is easy to de mist but what’s the best AC settings on a cold wet day like today to stop the side windows becoming hard to see out of? Do I need to have the heat and airflow on pretty high? I’ve noticed having the pivoting dash vents pointed at the window seems to help but the back ones seem hard to clear.
 

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Right so I will admit maybe I should know this but my last car had climate control so I never used to think about it and forgot how.

The windscreen is easy to de mist but what’s the best AC settings on a cold wet day like today to stop the side windows becoming hard to see out of? Do I need to have the heat and airflow on pretty high? I’ve noticed having the pivoting dash vents pointed at the window seems to help but the back ones seem hard to clear.
I find by turning the heat up to the second or third bar on the heat scale, then fan speed number 3 this is enough to keep the car clear from mist and nice and warm.
Don't use the recirc button or it will mist up really quickly.
i don't use the AC at all.
Also, you can open the "Ball" fresh air vents and angle them towards the drivers and passengers door glass.
 

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My de-mist times dropped since watching this guy: Defog your windows TWICE as fast using SCIENCE- 4 easy steps

In a nutshell:
  1. Heater on full
  2. A/C ON
  3. Recirculation OFF
  4. Crack open the windows
Not mentioned but I set the airflow direction to windscreen. Also a Karcher window vac can get you on your way faster if needs be.
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Anyway, this is probably more pertinant to the actual question, which is demist en route, not prior to journey:

The wetter/more humid the cabin, the more mist will generate, so wet items such as dog towels etc should be stowed in plastic bag / storage containers (not an absorbent seat/carpet) & removed at end of journey.

Water from shoes or boots will soak into fibre mats & carpets. Mostly driver side but depends how often you have passengers. In the winter I swap for rubber mats all round & bang any excess water / snow off my boots before getting in if need be.

I also crank the heater, point the airflow to feet & open the windows a crack 10mins from my destination.
This helps dry out the carpet/mats so the next journey is as fog-free as possible.

Since the door seals in my Skoda went I have become an expert in demisting. ?
 

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Right so I will admit maybe I should know this but my last car had climate control so I never used to think about it and forgot how.

The windscreen is easy to de mist but what’s the best AC settings on a cold wet day like today to stop the side windows becoming hard to see out of? Do I need to have the heat and airflow on pretty high? I’ve noticed having the pivoting dash vents pointed at the window seems to help but the back ones seem hard to clear.
The ZS seems particularly dire at demisting. Getting in from the rain, I have cleared windscreen, started off with heat aircon and fans on full and had to stop later because the windows were misting up while driving!

It does make me wonder whether the aircon is going to be particularly anaemic in summer, as it doesn't seem to remove moisture very effectively.

It is a long time since we had a car without climate control. The Leaf and Zoe clear in seconds. The ZS reminds me of our 1990 Peugeot 205 where we kept a sponge to speed up getting going. Maybe that is the solution.

I keep reminding myself that it is £5k cheaper than competitors and that buys a lot of sponges!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
5k worth of sponges ?

Personally I find the windscreen and rear view perfectly OK. It’s keeping the side windows clear seems to be an issue.

I find that swapping between settings is tricky as by the time you press the button the setting has changed already so you can’t see what your swapping to / from if that makes sense due to the screen lag.

None of this stuff is a deal breaker. Just things that seem like low hanging fruit to add more polish.

I am headed to my dealer today on an unrelated matter and am going to feed back and ask him if there is a channel for user feedback.

I do hope MGs attitude isn’t “la la la la I can’t hear you!”
 

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I too have not found it a problem.
First thing in a morning if it's iced up and misty, just do as the hand book says and press the demist button and let it do it's thing. Then when it's clear make sure the Aircon and recirculation mode is off. Most common mistake people make is leaving recirculation mode on, it should only be used in traffic etc to stop fumes and such getting in. Otherwise you are just recirculating your own damp breath.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for these tips. If I can’t find a great work around I’ll look into them!
 

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Personally I find the windscreen and rear view perfectly OK. It’s keeping the side windows clear seems to be an issue.
Open the "Ball vents" on both sides of the car and direct them at an angle towards both the drivers and passengers side window's.
When you have the heater on, it will allow a flow of warm air to be directed at the windows keeping them clear.
Woks for me !.
When the car is covered in ice, don't be doing all that scrapping nonsense.
If the car is close by, pop out and preheat the cabin to defrost the car.
Hit the heated seat button if you have them as well.
5 - 10 mins and your good to go.
Nothing like getting into a frost free and heated car while everybody else is scrapping off there cars.
Ball's to the range !.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well as long as you have enough range to get you back home lol!

Does your method clear the back passenger windows or are they always hard to clear?
 

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Woks for me !.
Well it is a Chinese car I suppose ;)


If the car is close by, pop out and preheat the cabin to defrost the car.
Hit the heated seat button if you have them as well.
5 - 10 mins and your good to go.
Nothing like getting into a frost free and heated car while everybody else is scrapping off there cars.
Ball's to the range !.
Don't even go there. My other car has proper timed pre-heating meaning it is nicely defrosted and toasty when I'm ready to leave without me having to go out and turn it on then wait. And I always leave with maximum range because it is heating and charging while being plugged in. This is a big oversight in the MG IMHO.
 

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The ZS seems particularly dire at demisting. Getting in from the rain, I have cleared windscreen, started off with heat aircon and fans on full and had to stop later because the windows were misting up while driving!

It does make me wonder whether the aircon is going to be particularly anaemic in summer, as it doesn't seem to remove moisture very effectively.

It is a long time since we had a car without aircon. The Leaf and Zoe clear in seconds. The ZS reminds me of our 1990 Peugeot 205 where we kept a sponge to speed up getting going. Maybe that is the solution.

I keep reminding myself that it is £5k cheaper than competitors and that buys a lot of sponges!
But the ZS has AC!

In my ICE cars, I would leave AC on 12 months of the year and never had poor visibility from misted side windows and screen. Sure the AC uses power but the AC uses far less power than the heater and with AC on it dehumidifies the air very effectively. You can keep windows safely clear and have a vastly less stuffy and therefore safer cabin using AC and heater in combination which is exactly what Climate Control does for you (which sadly MG have omitted).

Personally I go for Fan & Heater on full (ie hit the demis button on the top row of buttons) with AC and Recirculation to assit. This is pretty dam effective from a cold start. then knock off the Demist function and adjust a comfortable level of heating.
 

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But the ZS has AC!

In my ICE cars, I would leave AC on 12 months of the year and never had poor visibility from misted side windows and screen. Sure the AC uses power but the AC uses far less power than the heater and with AC on it dehumidifies the air very effectively. You can keep windows safely clear and have a vastly less stuffy and therefore safer cabin using AC and heater in combination which is exactly what Climate Control does for you (which sadly MG have omitted).

Personally I go for Fan & Heater on full (ie hit the demis button on the top row of buttons) with AC and Recirculation to assit. This is pretty dam effective from a cold start. then knock off the Demist function and adjust a comfortable level of heating.
Yes, my mistake. I meant climate control.
 

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Following my post I went out to my ZS to fine it completely misted and drenched with beaded water all over the outside!

I powered up, and switched on all the top row plus driver seat heater. The cleared water from side windows (on outside) with a squeezy. By the time I'd walked round car clearing the windows, I jumped in and buckled up all windows demisters and seat was warm. I was able to knock off "Demister" and drive away with heating set to normal. That's not bad is it?
 

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I always leave with maximum range because it is heating and charging while being plugged in. This is a big oversight in the MG IMHO
When I raised this with my MG Dealer I was told that it was a safety issue which is absolute BS! As is apparently the ability to run the heater/AC when out on a Road Trip at some Rapid charger so instead you have to freeze in winter in particular when hold-up at a non-Motorway Services Rapid. Even at a Motorway Services, you have to stay close by as you've no MG App to tell you how your charge is progressing. The UK/European ZS experience isn't that which made Bjørn Nyland fall in love with the car on his Thailand visit (Check out Bjørn Nyland's channel on YouTube)
 

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When I raised this with my MG Dealer I was told that it was a safety issue which is absolute BS! As is apparently the ability to run the heater/AC when out on a Road Trip at some Rapid charger so instead you have to freeze in winter in particular when hold-up at a non-Motorway Services Rapid. Even at a Motorway Services, you have to stay close by as you've no MG App to tell you how your charge is progressing. The UK/European ZS experience isn't that which made Bjørn Nyland fall in love with the car on his Thailand visit (Check out Bjørn Nyland's channel on YouTube)
Heating while charging does indeed work. If on a rapid you can heat with no issue. If your slow charging (AC post) you'll need to lock car anyway, when car is locked you can also use the heater.
 
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Yes, it sure is an issue. I sat in the car the other day on a supermarket Pod Point and tried to find a workaround like Bjon Nyland did with the AC in one of his recent Thailand ZS EV YouTube videos, but no joy.

If anyone out there finds a hack please do share.
 

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I keep AC on all year round. Rarely have a misting up problem.
 

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Yes, it sure is an issue. I sat in the car the other day on a supermarket Pod Point and tried to find a workaround like Bjon Nyland did with the AC in one of his recent Thailand ZS EV YouTube videos, but no joy.

If anyone out there finds a hack please do share.
Not sure if I am reporting correctly here with regard to supplying heat to the cabin while still connected to a 7kw AC public fast charging post ?.
I though this was still possible by plugging in the cable at the post and the car, then returning to cabin.
Lock yourself in the car by using the button on the drivers door.
Then, without putting your foot on the brake pedal, press the start button twice.
You should then be able to turn on the heater controls and heat the cabin while still receiving a charge from the fast post.
I have not tested this process myself OBTW.
Sorry, if this is not what you are requesting, I may have the wrong end of the stick.
 
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