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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My EO Mini type 2 untethered charger has just failed on me. Opening up the unit allowed a small trickle of water out so I assumed it was purely water damaged.
However inside a neutral wire has melted its insulation - in the MIDDLE! So don't see how this can blamed on a poor connection. The clamps all look fine this wire has overheated in the middle.

Despite this, I suspect it was working in this state, but the water collecting at the bottom shorted/damaged some components which ultimately caused it to die. I should point out my RCD never tripped at any point.

My question is, with some alcohol/toothbrush and a new neutral wire could this unit be salvaged? My main concern is what appears to be a tiny coil which may have cracked (see photo). I've managed this on laptop boards but obviously this is 32A AC were talking.

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How old is it? A grant aided install has a 3 year warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Was installed Jan 2018 so I'd have to fight for fit-for-purpose legislation rather than warranty which has expired. Not sure if I would be successful.
 

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The inductor L7 is toast and would need to be replaced once you have identified what it's part number / value is.

The chip IC13 to its right also looks unhappy, as do the passives C19, R93, R92. They might clean up ok, but equally they may have been over stressed and will fail quickly. They will be on the low power control circuit rather than the 230 VAC 32A power side, but without knowing what that part of the circuit does if / when they fail you don't know what the effect on the charge point or your car would be.

Personally if the warranty route is a non starter I would see if you can get a replacement PCB, or cut your losses and replace the whole unit.
 

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Can be difficult to reliably recover a board that's had water on while energised, as corrosion will affect not only components but PCB tracks and vias due to electrolysis. Even if confined to a small area, you really need to unsolder and replace everything in that area, while checking for PCB trace erosion. Perfectly doable, but always a chance that there is still some hidden damage that might cause problems later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok thanks everyone. I did see the Qubev unit mentioned above on eBay. £230 is still money but its a lot less than the £500 the branded units seem to be going for now!

I couldn't see a website with replacement parts (ie whole board) for this Eo charger - but will try speak to them tomorrow.

Appreciate the advice.
 

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My EO Mini type 2 untethered charger has just failed on me. Opening up the unit allowed a small trickle of water out so I assumed it was purely water damaged.
However inside a neutral wire has melted its insulation - in the MIDDLE! So don't see how this can blamed on a poor connection. The clamps all look fine this wire has overheated in the middle.

Despite this, I suspect it was working in this state, but the water collecting at the bottom shorted/damaged some components which ultimately caused it to die. I should point out my RCD never tripped at any point.

My question is, with some alcohol/toothbrush and a new neutral wire could this unit be salvaged? My main concern is what appears to be a tiny coil which may have cracked (see photo). I've managed this on laptop boards but obviously this is 32A AC were talking.

View attachment 150582 View attachment 150584
Ok thanks everyone. I did see the Qubev unit mentioned above on eBay. £230 is still money but its a lot less than the £500 the branded units seem to be going for now!

I couldn't see a website with replacement parts (ie whole board) for this Eo charger - but will try speak to them tomorrow.

Appreciate the advice.
Ok thanks everyone. I did see the Qubev unit mentioned above on eBay. £230 is still money but its a lot less than the £500 the branded units seem to be going for now!

I couldn't see a website with replacement parts (ie whole board) for this Eo charger - but will try speak to them tomorrow.

Appreciate the advice.
Ok thanks everyone. I did see the Qubev unit mentioned above on eBay. £230 is still money but its a lot less than the £500 the branded units seem to be going for now!

I couldn't see a website with replacement parts (ie whole board) for this Eo charger - but will try speak to them tomorrow.

Appreciate the advice.
I’ve just had one of these fitted,and i must admit looking at the weather proofing of the seal didn’t look nothing special!
do you think there’s a good argument to fix some form of small canopy over the box! To shelter it! i don’t want mine to go bang! Just when my guarantee has run out If it’s all down to the seal on the box!
 

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My EO Mini type 2 untethered charger has just failed on me. Opening up the unit allowed a small trickle of water out so I assumed it was purely water damaged.
However inside a neutral wire has melted its insulation - in the MIDDLE! So don't see how this can blamed on a poor connection. The clamps all look fine this wire has overheated in the middle.

Despite this, I suspect it was working in this state, but the water collecting at the bottom shorted/damaged some components which ultimately caused it to die. I should point out my RCD never tripped at any point.

My question is, with some alcohol/toothbrush and a new neutral wire could this unit be salvaged? My main concern is what appears to be a tiny coil which may have cracked (see photo). I've managed this on laptop boards but obviously this is 32A AC were talking.

View attachment 150582 View attachment 150584
Is this EO mini a tethered or socketed charger?
If it's socketed, is there drainage provision from the socket, away from the internal components and wiring.
 

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Don't bother trying to repair it, the carbon on the board around the other components will be nearly impossible to remove. I would want to replace all of the components where there's damage as there will probably carbon on the bottom of them. The IC has obviously had water on a couple of the pins and could well be damaged. The resistors will probably have their values marked on them but the capacitors won't. The diode probably might be identifiable. If you source the correct parts you might find that you've missed a bit of carbon or another component elsewhere that's been damaged and it could all go pop when you power it up. And the final thing would you want to risk it damaging your car!
 

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Oh, throw it away. It looks b*ggared. Maybe buy a qubev from ebay for a couple of hundred.

As far I can see (happy to be corrected) this unit doesn't seem to include PEN fault protection. A new unit constitutes a new install under the regs, so you need PEN fault protection, even if you didn't have it. That adds about £120 if you buy a separate unit, such as from Garo.
 

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The Qubev is really a cheap Rolec in disguise, it's made by Rolec and sold under a different name. I think they started marketing under the Qubev name because they had gained an unenviable reputation for using crap Chinese made components.

The components that have failed in the EO Mini are the switched mode power supply. Could be repaired by someone with the necessary surface mount rework kit, but probably not worth it, TBH, as there's no telling what else may have been damaged if that SMPS delivered an out of spec voltage to whatever it was supplying. You could fix the power supply components only to find that something like the main processor is also damaged, for example, and that's not something that you could easily replace, as it will contain the firmware that it runs.
 

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As far I can see (happy to be corrected) this unit doesn't seem to include PEN fault protection. A new unit constitutes a new install under the regs, so you need PEN fault protection, even if you didn't have it. That adds about £120 if you buy a separate unit, such as from Garo.
Which regs ? Wouldn't it count as a like-for-like replacement?
 

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If you're happy to try & reuse the case, you could ask Martin at evbitz.uk if he can repair it. He's mended Podpoints before, maybe other makes, by scrapping the PCB, and putting in a Viridian controller module + proper mains contactor, RCBO/RCD, & a temperature cutout. Here's a pic of a Podpoint repair (rebuild really!) he did for one of us here. At a very reasonable price indeed.
Green Circuit component Hardware programmer Computer hardware Electrical wiring


This was a while ago, these days I'd ask him to fit the newer EPC 2.0 version of the Viridian controller, plus all the optional Pen-fault & DC 6mA protection options. He'll need to know the size of the space inside the box to be sure of fitting the items, whether any of the socket stuff is in the way etc.
You'll end up with a dumb EVSE, no app/timing/smarts afaik. But easy to repair & maintain in future!

Here's what the inside of my untethered Rolec with all these items fitted in (no temperature cutout though) looks like. A bit of a squash.
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Which regs ? Wouldn't it count as a like-for-like replacement?
Well, I'm only going on what my electrician has told me ... I'm looking to move an existing charge point and am told that they won't do that without doing the work to the 18th edition. So my wording might not be spot on and you might do a replacement as a DIY. To be more specific, my understanding is that electricians take on responsibility for their work under the current regs and would want to install PEN fault protection.

Personally, I don't think replacing one EVSE with a totally different new one counts as like-for-like - but then we get into interpretation ...
 

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If you're happy to try & reuse the case, you could ask Martin at evbitz.uk if he can repair it. He's mended Podpoints before, maybe other makes, by scrapping the PCB, and putting in a Viridian controller module + proper mains contactor, RCBO/RCD, & a temperature cutout. Here's a pic of a Podpoint repair (rebuild really!) he did for one of us here. At a very reasonable price indeed.


This was a while ago, these days I'd ask him to fit the newer EPC 2.0 version of the Viridian controller, plus all the optional Pen-fault & DC 6mA protection options. He'll need to know the size of the space inside the box to be sure of fitting the items, whether any of the socket stuff is in the way etc.
You'll end up with a dumb EVSE, no app/timing/smarts afaik. But easy to repair & maintain in future!

I'm pretty sure that the Viridian parts just won't come close to fitting inside an EO Mini case. I tried to fit the open PEN fault protection version Viridian parts into a 160mm x 160mm x 90mm diecast case and there's just not enough room, so ended up having to use a 160mm x 260mm x 90mm case, and even then things are a bit tight. The EO Mini is really tight for space inside, the case is only 125mm x 175mm x 95mm. and a lot of the internal volume is taken up by the back of the connector projecting back into the case.
 

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Re the case leaking - True. A Viridian unit gets you all those robust & easy-to-replace items for easy repair & maintenance, plus they do a solid metal case so it's a top quality item all round.
 

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Well, I'm only going on what my electrician has told me ... I'm looking to move an existing charge point and am told that they won't do that without doing the work to the 18th edition. So my wording might not be spot on and you might do a replacement as a DIY. To be more specific, my understanding is that electricians take on responsibility for their work under the current regs and would want to install PEN fault protection.

Personally, I don't think replacing one EVSE with a totally different new one counts as like-for-like - but then we get into interpretation ...

The regs apply to the circuit, so as long as no new circuit is put in then swapping the charge point over is a DIY job. However, there are safety issues that need to be addressed, so as well as this work needing to be done by a competent person (doesn't need to be an electrician) it also must be inspected and tested to ensure it's safe and functional. Not many DIY'ers will have the test gear needed to do this, as the testing requires that a vehicle connection be simulated and that things like the earth loop impedance and RCD function be tested and measured, and both of those require more than just a multimeter.
 

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The regs apply to the circuit, so as long as no new circuit is put in then swapping the charge point over is a DIY job. However, there are safety issues that need to be addressed, so as well as this work needing to be done by a competent person (doesn't need to be an electrician) it also must be inspected and tested to ensure it's safe and functional. Not many DIY'ers will have the test gear needed to do this, as the testing requires that a vehicle connection be simulated and that things like the earth loop impedance and RCD function be tested and measured, and both of those require more than just a multimeter.
Look, I tested it by putting an axe through the cable and I'm not dead so.... PASS!

I jest, of course, but I've seen less thorough tests carried out.
 
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