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So KIA USA called me in response to the case #, and they just said to take it to the dealer and they will determine if there is an issue. They said there were no known recalls. They were not willing to say if it was normal behavior or not. I don't feel like the sound is noticeable yet enough to start arguing with the dealer on if this is "as designed" or not, so my plan is to wait until it gets worse and/or if reports that Kia is fixing with confirmed working new design or procedure.
 

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I would get the car to the dealer and get it fixed as soon as possible. From the rest of our experiences it will only get worse so the sooner you get a new motor the less wear there will be on any other parts
I would love to, but I know how this goes and they will 99% likely tell me this is normal or that they dont hear it. I need to wait until the noise is clearly wrong.
 

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I completely understand your fears. That's exactly what happened to me when I took the car to the local dealer who sold it to me. They tried to convince me this sound was normal and that all Niros sound like this. What a bunch of BS.

After getting discouraged, I was even considering just selling it and started collecting quotes from used car dealers. But then decided to give another out-of-town dealer a shot. Luckily this time their head technician agreed this was not normal when we rode together in the car. He also compared it to their new cars on the lot and they didn't make this sound. After a week of diagnostic testing, they ordered a new motor. I've now been without the car for a month while waiting for the parts (also getting the water pump recall done). I now read that there is a fuse recall of some kind that requires dismantling the car. Will check with my dealer if that applies to my car.

Early on, KIA was mostly swapping gear boxes instead of motors. The noise is coming from the drive shaft that joins the motor to the gearbox. The vibration from a noisy shaft may cause damage to the gearbox if left alone. At that point, a motor swap may not solve the problem. That's why Woodulike was recommending not waiting to get motor fixed.
 

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I got a message from the dealer yesterday (even with the recording i gave them not being clear enough, they said Kia have authorised the replacement of the traction motor.
Parts are currently on back order but they will call me to get the car booked in once they have a delivery date.

If Kia originally sent over 30 Interesting that they have gone already
Same story on the French forum where they reported inventory of 50 spare motors was all used up and waiting for next shipment. I guess we'll never know for sure how many cars are affected.
 

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I would love to, but I know how this goes and they will 99% likely tell me this is normal or that they dont hear it. I need to wait until the noise is clearly wrong.
Unless you really don't have the time to spare to take it in I would start the process and press them to get the motor changed. They started by changing gear boxes and have now moved on to changing the motor so I am assuming the noise is in the cogs between those two. The less miles you have on your gearbox the less potential there is for wear on the parts. Yes Kia offer a very good warranty but I don't want to be testing how good they are at changing parts in two or three years time.
 

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Someone posted on the French forums that new motor revision has a serial number ending with 711 compared to 710 for the older motor. If this can be confirmed, and assuming serial number is visible without removing motor, it would provide a quick method to check your car before taking delivery.

Woodulike: Have you seen any such number anywhere on your motor or service paperwork?
 

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Someone posted on the French forums that new motor revision has a serial number ending with 711 compared to 710 for the older motor. If this can be confirmed, and assuming serial number is visible without removing motor, it would provide a quick method to check your car before taking delivery.

Woodulike: Have you seen any such number anywhere on your motor or service paperwork?
I did have a look, but the only number I can see didn't relate to the numbers posted above.
With Dougconran's car parked along side for comparison I couldn't see any difference, and the sticker I have on the top of my motor is entirely different to the one on Doug's car.
 

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Someone posted on the French forums that new motor revision has a serial number ending with 711 compared to 710 for the older motor. If this can be confirmed, and assuming serial number is visible without removing motor, it would provide a quick method to check your car before taking delivery.

Woodulike: Have you seen any such number anywhere on your motor or service paperwork?

Perhaps a translation issue, but I suspect it's not a serial number but a model number... I could be wrong. Here is an online parts store, they list the "Traction Motor Assembly" as SKU:36500-0E711. There's your 711. It also says: Replaces:36500-0E710. So, if you can indeed find this P/N, it would be critical to determining if you have any re-design benefit.

I did have a look, but the only number I can see didn't relate to the numbers posted above.
With Dougconran's car parked along side for comparison I couldn't see any difference, and the sticker I have on the top of my motor is entirely different to the one on Doug's car.
So, if you remove the top plastic cover in the "engine room" (as they call it in the manual!) the label on top is for a subcomponent, the charger -- it is mounted on top of the motor. That label would not be the right one. I looked and could not find any motor labels from the topside. Perhaps you need to get underneath?
 

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Update! You can find the motor label from the vehicle underside. You DO NOT need to remove the underside fairing/cover. From the PASSENGER side wheel axel, using my phone and flash I was able to snap a photo of the motor P/N. "PMSM (PM Synchronous Motor)", P/N: 36500-0E710. Thats a match with the old P/N. And my vehicle exhibits the click sound, VIN plate date of 08/19.

Edit: Also, on the same label is the production SN, Em16K8R239CJ, which matches the above posted decoder sheet.

Need more data points from other folks here!
 

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Update! You can find the motor label from the vehicle underside. You DO NOT need to remove the underside fairing/cover. From the PASSENGER side wheel axel, using my phone and flash I was able to snap a photo of the motor P/N. "PMSM (PM Synchronous Motor)", P/N: 36500-0E710. Thats a match with the old P/N. And my vehicle exhibits the click sound, VIN plate date of 08/19.

Edit: Also, on the same label is the production SN, Em16K8R239CJ, which matches the above posted decoder sheet.

Need more data points from other folks here!
Can you send a blurred picture of it so we know exactly where to look?
 

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In the UK it's visible from the drivers side wheel arch with left hand lock, clicky is in the US and LHD.

Mine ends 711.


Would be interesting to know what @dougconran has fitted on his car as I couldn't see any visual difference between our motors. I checked the difference between our cars when I first got mine back from having the new motor fitted. I was told the new motor had a thicker flange where the gearbox is fitted to the motor and it needed longer bolts. When I measured our cars were the same.
 

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Okay, so that's one point for 711 = no sound (I assume your noise is fixed now) , one 710 = click sound.

What really want to know is, what is the intended difference between 711 and 710. It could have nothing to do with the sound at all and some unrelated change, or it could be some engineering change to specifically address this problem.
 

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In the UK it's visible from the drivers side wheel arch with left hand lock, clicky is in the US and LHD.

Mine ends 711.


Would be interesting to know what @dougconran has fitted on his car as I couldn't see any visual difference between our motors. I checked the difference between our cars when I first got mine back from having the new motor fitted. I was told the new motor had a thicker flange where the gearbox is fitted to the motor and it needed longer bolts. When I measured our cars were the same.
I'll check mine tomorrow (if it's not raining :cool:)
 

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Okay, so that's one point for 711 = no sound (I assume your noise is fixed now) , one 710 = click sound.

What really want to know is, what is the intended difference between 711 and 710. It could have nothing to do with the sound at all and some unrelated change, or it could be some engineering change to specifically address this problem.
I was told theres a thicker flange where the gearbox is bolted to the motor. There may be other modifications as well but that's all I've heard.
I don't have any clicking anywhere after the motor has been changed. The first week after the motor was fitted I thought there was a very slight higher speed click/purr with regen around 40-50 mph but if there was that has gone entirely now. I'm still very sensitive about noise from it at the moment but with the 7 year warranty I really need to just forget about it and see what happens. If there is an issue it will manifest itself quite soon I'm sure.
We have driven 3500 miles since the motor was changed and the clicking hasn't come back yet, although my wife has it at the moment as my back still isn't really happy with the Niro seat. She is unlikly to notice any noises, her music will be too loud to hear anything else.
 

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Okay, so that's one point for 711 = no sound (I assume your noise is fixed now) , one 710 = click sound.

What really want to know is, what is the intended difference between 711 and 710. It could have nothing to do with the sound at all and some unrelated change, or it could be some engineering change to specifically address this problem.
Thanks for finding the 710/711 part number location. Confirming that your car still has the older revision makes me more hopeful that the newer revision will solve the clicking for everyone. I was initially worried because I assumed your newer 08/19 build car already had the newer motor revision.

I wonder when they actually started shipping this new motor? More owners of the 711 revision will need to check their serial number. Decoding your older 16K8R239CJ motor serial number tells us it was the 239th motor built on August 27, 2019.
 
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