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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello to you all


I am buying a second hand 2018 Golf GTE and never had an electric powered car before so have so many questions. Not taken delivery of it yet from a VW main dealer as it is in preparation, but deposit paid. The first question I have would be regarding the 3 pin to type to cable as it does come with one but I would like to leave that at home really and buy another for the boot to carry around or to put at work. They seem to vary a lot in price but I have seen this one from Screw Fix made by Masterplug (which I have at least heard of) and it seems to be the best on price at £140.00 including vat


Does anyone have any thoughts on this or why I should pay more, or anything? Any comments appreciated

Thanks

Paul
 

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Looks ok to me. Some allow selecting the max current, usually 6A/10A choice available, as running 10A for long periods can ewasily overheat a 13A socket. I guess you might be charging for ~4 hours at 10A to fill up, or 7 hours at 6A. I don't knoe if GTe allows setting a reduced 6A charge inside the car, some EVs do.

There may be others at work wanting to use the same socket, so prepare to arrange a booking system between friends if so, so whoever charges up during the morning moves their car so others can charge later. My son knocked up an app for this, msg me if you want this, it may be transportable!

Often the workplace chargers have a type-2 socket (and no 13A), and offer 7kW single phase (maybe 22kW 3-phase but it's all the same to your 1-phase charger, other 2 are no use) and for that you would need the heftier Type-2 to Type-2 cable, one rated 16A is fine for you. But do your sums re cost, and decide if it's worth it; the cost of the Type-2 cable buys a lot of petrol!

You can always take these extra chargers/cables with you to next EV, as they'll also use the same Type-2 connections. So you may want to future-proof and get a 32A 3-phase rated cable, will work fine on GTe & give you full power on future EVs.
 

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EVEZY code -£50 off: d409e
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The Golf can be set to 5 or 10Amp for 3 pin charging.

Worth mentioning it'd cost you an extra ~£300 for a (future proofed 32Amp) Pod-point to be fitted at home rather than buy another granny charger? That's what I went for, the podpoint is tethered so it's a few seconds quicker each day :geek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Looks ok to me. Some allow selecting the max current, usually 6A/10A choice available, as running 10A for long periods can ewasily overheat a 13A socket. I guess you might be charging for ~4 hours at 10A to fill up, or 7 hours at 6A. I don't knoe if GTe allows setting a reduced 6A charge inside the car, some EVs do.

There may be others at work wanting to use the same socket, so prepare to arrange a booking system between friends if so, so whoever charges up during the morning moves their car so others can charge later. My son knocked up an app for this, msg me if you want this, it may be transportable!

Often the workplace chargers have a type-2 socket (and no 13A), and offer 7kW single phase (maybe 22kW 3-phase but it's all the same to your 1-phase charger, other 2 are no use) and for that you would need the heftier Type-2 to Type-2 cable, one rated 16A is fine for you. But do your sums re cost, and decide if it's worth it; the cost of the Type-2 cable buys a lot of petrol!

You can always take these extra chargers/cables with you to next EV, as they'll also use the same Type-2 connections. So you may want to future-proof and get a 32A 3-phase rated cable, will work fine on GTe & give you full power on future EVs.
Thanks for getting back to me. Im the only one at work with acar that can be charged so no need for an app and it would just be the 3 pin type anyway.(y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The Golf can be set to 5 or 10Amp for 3 pin charging.

Worth mentioning it'd cost you an extra ~£300 for a (future proofed 32Amp) Pod-point to be fitted at home rather than buy another granny charger? That's what I went for, the podpoint is tethered so it's a few seconds quicker each day :geek:
Getting a Pod Point is an option and I have email someone for a quote on getting that but there are so may different makes ! is Pod Point a good make?

Also if I bought that charger from Screw Fix above could I then set the Golf to charge at only 5 amps? As I think that would be better for battery over the years?
 

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Some allow selecting the max current, usually 6A/10A choice available, as running 10A for long periods can ewasily overheat a 13A socket. I guess you might be charging for ~4 hours at 10A to fill up, or 7 hours at 6A. I don't knoe if GTe allows setting a reduced 6A charge inside the car, some EVs do.
Not sure about the OP's 2018 Golf, but the 2020 Passat has an option for "Reduced charging current" on the head unit - but it doesn't explicitly say what the reduced charge current is. Also, the granny charger that came with my Passat doesn't let you reduce the charge current, so the only way you can limit it is through the car's setting. I believe that the older VW grannys let you change it on the charger directly, but I don't know when they changed the design (although being VW, it was probably changed every couple of days).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Reading elsewhere on the internet matches what you are saying so it doesn't matter what the granny charger puts out if it is reduced down in the car.

If the Golf has that option to charge at just 5 amps am I correct i saying that would give the battery longer life in years?
 

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That cable has a type 1 car end plug on it. I'd check compatability, reckon your Golf will be type 2.

Type 1 sockets/plugs are quite old school.
 

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Yup, GTe will have a Type 2 socket on. As did the Audi e-Tron (identical electrically & mechanically) Phev that came out at the same time. FWIW the min charging any EVSE runs at is 6A, not 5. Perhaps for efficiency reasons, the standard sets 6A as the min charge rate (0A also!). ID.3 has reduced charging rate, that's also 6A as far as I can tell. ID.3 doesn't suffer any inefficiency charging at 6A compared to 10 or 32 acc to my tests (all around 90%). On GTe the amount of electricity taken is so modest that any difference in efficiency between 6A and 10A or 16A is likely to be undetectable/trivial.
 

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ID.3 has reduced charging rate, that's also 6A as far as I can tell
Just tried it on my Passat, and it's taking 6.3A from my wall box - I'd assume it'd do the same from the granny. I'm also assuming that it's aiming for 6A and slightly missed, but it's close enough for my engineering mind (5% error is pretty good in my world :)).
If the Golf has that option to charge at just 5 amps am I correct i saying that would give the battery longer life in years?
Technically yes, but realistically, I wouldn't expect dropping from 10A to 6A would make much difference to the battery in the grand scheme of things. The car is already capable of charging at 16A, so running at 10A is already a significant reduction in charge current from where VW expect you to be running it, so dropping it down further to 6A feels (with no evidence) to be well into diminishing returns. The main difference would be stress on your house wiring and 3 pin socket. If you're not in a rush then there's certainly no real harm in using the slower current, but I wouldn't bother doing it solely for the sake of the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
All really helpful advice thank you. I sent the wrong link it seams from Screw Fix as this one is the type 2
Masterplug 10A 2.3kW Mode 2 Type 2 Socket Electric Vehicle Charging Cable 10m
Thank you all so far I am learning all the time from this.

If I did go for a certain make of home charging point like Pod Point do I get any sort of discounts for using public Pod Points or does it just not work like that?
 

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Before you jump into a decision as to what make of wall-mounted EVSE you go for, are you into diy electrical repairs at all? If so, there's a couple of makes of these which are easily diy-repairable. Many, such as Podpoint, Chargemaster, ... have a custom PCB inside so if that breaks, you're at their mercy for repair bills!

We know of an excellent guy who repairs broken EVSEs, by replacing the PCB with off-the-shelf individual items at much lower cost than the proprietory OEM quotes are. That reduced one person's broken Podpoint quote from OEM's £450 down to £160.

I've repaired my own EVSE, cost me £85 fpr the "brains" Controller unit inside which had been blown up when the car's socket got water in & shorted the mains supply into the low-voltage signal line! Turned out my EVSE was one that's easily diy repairable, and that was my path into learning about this stuff!

But these are "dumb" EVSEs, any clever stuff is the car deciding when it wants to do it's charging. There are other "smart" EVSEs which can do solar-panel optimising, or time-of-day tarriff slection stuff, and these are all going to be non-diy repairable I think.

Even if you're not into diy, you can always get a local sparky to repair the easily repaired ones, based on info from in here.

What I don't know is the average failure rate of EVSEs, perhaps we should do a poll to find out? Enough have been around for 4-5 years to maybe make this worthwhile?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I can definitely do that type of DIY stuff. What make do you have?

Is there any cost advantage at a public charging point if you have that make at home though?
 

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Will it ever happen ?
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Hello to you all


I am buying a second hand 2018 Golf GTE and never had an electric powered car before so have so many questions. Not taken delivery of it yet from a VW main dealer as it is in preparation, but deposit paid. The first question I have would be regarding the 3 pin to type to cable as it does come with one but I would like to leave that at home really and buy another for the boot to carry around or to put at work. They seem to vary a lot in price but I have seen this one from Screw Fix made by Masterplug (which I have at least heard of) and it seems to be the best on price at £140.00 including vat


Does anyone have any thoughts on this or why I should pay more, or anything? Any comments appreciated

Thanks

Paul
That is a type 1 I think the car you are buying is a type 2
 

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I have a Rolec "dumb" EVSE, 5 years old, that I've brought up-to-date with latest & safer controller, now has Earth fault protection etc acc to recent regs. Rolec are seen as "cheap & cheerful", plastic case, and abominably bad RCBOs inside which we recommend binning asap, £25 for a decent one 5 mins to swap. Or, you can get the same components I got off the web, already in a top-quality case, all made & assembled by Viridian. See ecoHarmony
Link to the mods I did to my Rolec:
Rolec Dumb Charger upgraded with DC Leakage Protection...
For the real hardware enthusiasts there's OpenEVSE - Electric Vehicle Charging Solutions to have play with...
 
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