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I'm tempted to buy a second-hand BMW i3. My goal would be to get a non-REX 90Ah or 120Ah model, probably 2016 or later. I am comfortable with the 90Ah model, 120Ah would be nice to have.

I currently own a Golf GTE and it's had its fair share of headaches. I want to get an all-electric vehicle but the price of a new ID.3, or the performance of an e-208, are not that attractive. I am benchmarking the i3 against a used Kona (size isn't a big issue for me!) The Kona is great for the large battery but I'm not sure I'll need it that much and I'm not a fan of SUVs, even if the Kona is on the small side.

What are the common issues to look out for? How is the reliability of the newer models? Do you get warranties, and do they work out well? Better to buy from a BMW dealer or go to a 3rd party?
 

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I bought the rex because we do occasional long journeys, the price difference wasnt enough to worry about the cost. Look for good tyres with even wear as they are expensive, allegidly the later models like mine are better built than early ones, only time will tell on that. Reading on here BMW arnt hot on doing what you pay them for so be careful and find a dealer you trust, mine is going in for tracking and a look at a tyre that keeps on going down [brand new tyre] Anyway good luck with your search and hope that you find a good one, we love ours by the way and really rate it as a car
 

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2015 BMW i3 REx 60ah, Solar Orange
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My advice, go to a dealer. If you're used to working on cars, then they are easy enough to maintain, however its loaded with electronics, so can be problematic as the codes can't be cleared without a trip to the main dealer. My own experience of BMW so-called electric experts from technical side is woeful.

I'd be looking for a new i3, say a year old, with 2 years' manufacturer warranty remaining. Yes you're going to pay for it, but you can extend the warranty after that. BMW will charge just under £100 to scan the car, regardless of what they find there-after.

Faults, upper suspension mounts can fail (look for torn rubber gaiters), allows water ingress. Cars with diamond cut alloys, then consider another set of 427 powder coated alloys for winter (with winter tyres of course). The diamond cut alloys are susceptible to corrosion. You may get intermittent faults, parking sensors, rear parking camera, airbag, etc.

Worth picking up a copy of ISTA dealer diagnostics outside warranty. A lot of these faults can just be moisture than you can clear the faults codes from unless the unit is actually damaged.

Front windscreen susceptible to stone chips. and cracks My wife has gone through two so far!

If you are avoiding REx, then you should avoid quite a number of related issues, fuel pressure sensor, fuel pump relay, etc.

The only other fault I've had is a charging lock solenoid which stopped the car charging. Sorted that myself with parts from Hubauer Shop direct from Germany. Again, depending on mileage, expect to replace front and rear brake discs and pads by around 60-70k miles.
 

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My advice, go to a dealer. If you're used to working on cars, then they are easy enough to maintain, however its loaded with electronics, so can be problematic as the codes can't be cleared without a trip to the main dealer. My own experience of BMW so-called electric experts from technical side is woeful.

I'd be looking for a new i3, say a year old, with 2 years' manufacturer warranty remaining. Yes you're going to pay for it, but you can extend the warranty after that. BMW will charge just under £100 to scan the car, regardless of what they find there-after.

Faults, upper suspension mounts can fail (look for torn rubber gaiters), allows water ingress. Cars with diamond cut alloys, then consider another set of 427 powder coated alloys for winter (with winter tyres of course). The diamond cut alloys are susceptible to corrosion. You may get intermittent faults, parking sensors, rear parking camera, airbag, etc.

Worth picking up a copy of ISTA dealer diagnostics outside warranty. A lot of these faults can just be moisture than you can clear the faults codes from unless the unit is actually damaged.

Front windscreen susceptible to stone chips. and cracks My wife has gone through two so far!

If you are avoiding REx, then you should avoid quite a number of related issues, fuel pressure sensor, fuel pump relay, etc.

The only other fault I've had is a charging lock solenoid which stopped the car charging. Sorted that myself with parts from Hubauer Shop direct from Germany. Again, depending on mileage, expect to replace front and rear brake discs and pads by around 60-70k miles.
Brakes are an issue ours are going rusty through lack of use its the one pedal driving that does it, we make a point of now breaking once on a journey to clean them a bit
 

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From my research they seem pretty solid from 2015 on, so you should be fine with a 94Ah or 120Ah.

Lots on info/ buying guide etc in “the Knowledge” found at the i3 owners club on FaceBook, would recommend a good read there.

They recommend buying one with a decent warranty (pref BMW) which lasts at least your first year with the car, which is what I have done - it wasn’t much more than buying privately when I was looking. (i.e. BMW approved)

Having said that there is one in the classifieds here which looks decent value, think I’d be happy to buy another privately now, but YMMV!
 

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From my research they seem pretty solid from 2015 on, so you should be fine with a 94Ah or 120Ah.

Lots on info/ buying guide etc in “the Knowledge” found at the i3 owners club on FaceBook, would recommend a good read there.

They recommend buying one with a decent warranty (pref BMW) which lasts at least your first year with the car, which is what I have done - it wasn’t much more than buying privately when I was looking. (i.e. BMW approved)

Having said that there is one in the classifieds here which looks decent value, think I’d be happy to buy another privately now, but YMMV!
Like the colour of the car for sale, but 500 squids more bought me a Rex with 3 brand new tyres on it with suite interior, same age as well
 

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2020 Hyundai Kona 64kWh in very bright Acid Yellow :)
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If it's mine you're talking about (Blue one), I am open to offers. It's been perfect for me and I'm in no hurry to sell, I'm looking to go for a longer range car (maybe the 64kWh Kona). I would put a couple of new tyres on mine, but I know they're good until the end of the summer so will get some then if no-one's bought it by then.
There's more choice if you go with a REx as BMW seem to have sold many more, probably down to range anxiety. I went to the i3 from a 24kWh Leaf so didn't see the need for the REx, wanted something which I thought would be more reliable, without the engine and associated gubbins!
I looked on the autotrader before listing mine, and couldn't see any low mileage i3's (under 30,000 miles) for under £15k so priced mine £500 under that (definitely enough for 2 new tyres, even on the i3 lol).
It all depends on budget for the OP really; £15k will get you a 94Ah one, you'll need £20k for a 120Ah one, just depends if the extra range is that important to you.
 

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If it's mine you're talking about (Blue one), I am open to offers. It's been perfect for me and I'm in no hurry to sell, I'm looking to go for a longer range car (maybe the 64kWh Kona). I would put a couple of new tyres on mine, but I know they're good until the end of the summer so will get some then if no-one's bought it by then.
There's more choice if you go with a REx as BMW seem to have sold many more, probably down to range anxiety. I went to the i3 from a 24kWh Leaf so didn't see the need for the REx, wanted something which I thought would be more reliable, without the engine and associated gubbins!
I looked on the autotrader before listing mine, and couldn't see any low mileage i3's (under 30,000 miles) for under £15k so priced mine £500 under that (definitely enough for 2 new tyres, even on the i3 lol).
It all depends on budget for the OP really; £15k will get you a 94Ah one, you'll need £20k for a 120Ah one, just depends if the extra range is that important to you.
We were lucky I am ex trade and Sam Jaynes son is a body shop manager for Arnold Clark, so we got a bargain its ex lease and they buy well we paid just over what they bought it for. I think the Rex is relatively cheap because they are so prolific even though they 3.5k more expensive new for me that meant I bought a bargain. I do love the colour of your car though although it wouldnt suit the olive colour of my leather interior, seems strange you can have any colour leather you want as long as its Olive! Luckily it suits the bronze colour of our car
 

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Work out what spec you want, they are like Minis, no two seem to be identical.
I bought a 2017 REX via the auctions, it was direct ex-lease (so serviced as it should have been), 3 years old with 82k on the clock. Felt like it had all the options except a sunroof. Only issues were charging cable and tyre filling gunk were missing, soon replaced.
Despite the mileage it drove really tight, felt like a new car - so I would say, don't be scared of a higher mileage example.
Only had it for a few months, so didn't consider warranties, and had no issues with it at all - sold it when my e2008 finally arrived. Still miss it, especially the acceleration!
 

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This thread my be helpful to the OP.

 
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