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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As the title suggests, I'm looking at purchasing a used model 3. Specifically a 69 plate SR+.

Whilst a long time EV driver, I'd be a first time Tesla buyer - so keen to hear about anything to know, check, or watch out for.

The one I have my eye on isn't from Tesla themselves, but a 3rd party dealer.
 

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I wouldn't worry too much as it's under warranty (I assume)

Warranty is 4 years or 50k whichever comes sooner.

There are loads of SR+ for sale so I wouldn't worry too much if this one doesn't come off.
 

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Specifications
Early 3SR+ had various changes to the spec. A 69 plate might or might not have foglights (a 19 plate SR+ WILL have foglights, a 20 plate or later will NOT. 69 plate could be either). At some point the auto-dimming door mirrors were also removed from the spec, but I feel like that was after 69 plate.

Recalls/etc
Early RHD cars had a possible issue with the steering wiring loom. It could get wet and cause all sorts of nasty things to happen. My 19 plate was fine, but my colleague's 69 plate had the problem. All earlier RHD cars should now have had the wiring inspected and the fixes applied (if the loom was ok then it was repositioned and sealed. If it was not ok then it was replaced, repositioned and sealed). Check for evidence that this has been done. Tesla will do the work for free. It was a service campaign rather than a recall.

Aeros
Original aero covers were not that tightly affixed to the wheel and driving through standing water could cause them to part company with the car. The updated Aero (70 plate refresh models onward) are much more tightly affixed. If the aeros have been removed and there are not 4 spares with the car then query that. 18" Aero original tyres are Michelin Pilot Sport 4 T0. Typical lifetime should be around 20k miles, but they are quite prone to punctures and many tyre places refuse to repair because of the foam inside.

Paint
Some cars had issues with paint quality especially in the sill areas. Tesla subsequently made mudflaps or PPF kit available at no cost to earlier model 3 buyers. Check the condition of the paint in the sill areas, and just in front of the rear wheel arch where the door and sill start to flare out a bit. If the car has no mudflaps at all then check this carefully. The official tesla mudflaps are a peculiar and ugly 2-piece contraption that is either too long or too short, and there are much neater third-party mudflaps available. If the third-party mudflaps are fitted then that should be a sign that the first keeper had some care for the car. Make sure that no paint is rubbing along the door and especially the boot shutlines.

Water ingress
Ensure that the bootlid isn't full of water. Lift the boot floor and make sure that the storage well below is dry (if there is water ingress into the boot it can pool there and go mouldy). Check rear lights and headlamps for condensation. If excessive Tesla will replace, but there are often differences of opinion as to what constitutes excessive. Check that there are no water marks around the tops of the A pillar trims internally.

Otherwise
There aren't really any other significant widespread issues, more one-offs. Interior is generally free from faults, and MCU2 has not shown any common issues as yet. Suspension should be tight, free from rattles or knocks (but it does tend to thump on poor roads). Drivetrain should be quiet but it isn't silent. On rough roads there are a few rattles that affect some cars (VIN plate on windscreen, etc) which are mostly fixable. You can get some "chatter" from the frameless windows moving against the seals (made much worse if the seals get dusty - clean them and apply Gummipflege. Do NOT use silicone or WD40)

I'd suggest looking at cars from a reputable and specialist EV dealer such as Simon Jones or R Symons. They should recognise the above listed items and be able to give you clear answers on them.
 

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R Symonds did a decent video in the last couple of weeks about buying Model 3 second hand, ran through all the various changes, what to look for etc. Worth a look along with @i-s comprehensive reply above..
 

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My list would be:

-Evidence of corrosion anywhere
-That the body doesn’t have scratches as Tesla’s scratch easily > check whether the customary ceramic coating was applied by the previous owner
-Moisture in the tail lights
-Weird noisewhile rolling
-Windows that don’t go up or down
-Switch on and off a dozen times to check that no warnings show up
-Panel gaps on the front (drag problem)
-Doors that don’t close well
-Seats, that they are fully functioning and that the upholstery has no damage.
-That the charge port opens and closes properly
-That the rear spoiler is attached properly
-That the car fast charges normally, that Supercharging works
-That the display is not scratched or has missing pixels
-Ask why he's selling a brand new car. Look him in the face and try to see if he's lying.

I would start by watching the below video and ask yourself whether you are big enough of a fan to deal with the myriad of issues coming your way.
Only a fan would pay this much to have headaches.



 

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My list would be:

-Evidence of corrosion anywhere
-That the body doesn’t have scratches as Tesla’s scratch easily > check whether the customary ceramic coating was applied by the previous owner
-Moisture in the tail lights
-Weird noisewhile rolling
-Windows that don’t go up or down
-Switch on and off a dozen times to check that no warnings show up
-Panel gaps on the front (drag problem)
-Doors that don’t close well
-Seats, that they are fully functioning and that the upholstery has no damage.
-That the charge port opens and closes properly
-That the rear spoiler is attached properly
-That the car fast charges normally, that Supercharging works
-That the display is not scratched or has missing pixels
-Ask why he's selling a brand new car. Look him in the face and try to see if he's lying.

I would start by watching the below video and ask yourself whether you are big enough of a fan to deal with the myriad of issues coming your way.
Only a fan would pay this much to have headaches.



Zzzzzzzzz
 

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James & Kate - 'EV specialist' 🤣😂🤣
...and you are?
Tesla UK?

Yes, James is an EV specialist.
He knows what he's doing, he's done battery swaps, he maintains EV's.

If he says it's cr*p, it's cr*p. I don't agree with him all the time, but he's spot on most of the time.
He's not the only one saying it by the way.
I say it too and so does the video with the owner with the 15 issues and many many others.

If you don't want the criticism, just build proper cars.
And by the way, if the car was priced as a budget car, these issues would be acceptable.
But it's not.
 

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In 19 months of ownership (of each vehicle) I had more issues with my Leaf than I have had with my Tesla.
 

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I always find it hilarious when someone who doesn't own a Tesla, has no interest in Tesla and will probably never get a Tesla, feels the need to come to the Tesla forum to let everyone know they don't like Tesla.

It's akin to me calling up a take away and telling them I'm not hungry.
 

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Tesla M3 SR+ In a whiter shade of pale
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In 19 months of ownership (of each vehicle) I had more issues with my Leaf than I have had with my Tesla.
You said
"That’s very, very unlikely."

So which Tesla did you own, how long for, and what were your problems with it Superleaf?
 

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If you have personal experiences to share, please enlighten us, if not, please don't bore us with repeats of other peoples views.
 

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On a completely unrelated matter which is definitely nothing to do with this thread and a certain poster, I've found that if you click someones name under their profile pic there is an "ignore" feature which just makes life so much more relaxing and positive :)
 

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On a completely unrelated matter which is definitely nothing to do with this thread and a certain poster, I've found that if you click someones name under their profile pic there is an "ignore" feature which just makes life so much more relaxing and positive :)
Done!! Thank you
 
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