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After 105,000 miles, my cabin heater isn't working when in electric mode. The reservoirs are all topped up... and the heater works in petrol mode. A mechanic used his diagnostics and found no faults. Though he did nothing to the car, the heat returned in electric mode. Hey hey! But twenty minutes later, she started blowing cold air again. Argh.
 

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Not wishing to patronise, but could it be that when you say "heater works in petrol mode", the heat is coming from the engine? Then you drive off in elec mode and the heat is in fact residual engine heat. 20 mins later, the engine has cooled down, giving you the cold air.
 

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If this is the MY13 with the Power Meter in the DIC then power on the car with the setting at min in the climate, Observe the power meter -normally idle is 0.5k,
Swithc the climate to max and the observe, Once the heating icon turns on (Lower right on the infotainment) then the power meter should rise to @ 6kW, may be less. This is a sign the heating element is on.
No rise and the element / its fuse / connections and so on has failed. If the power meter shows a power drain then you may have a water pump / valve problem.
If its cold (less than 8?) enough the battery heater may come on and confuse the issue. This will show up with the climate on "Min"
 

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This thread prompted me to take a look at mine, which has never seemed very effective. I did the test above and the power meter comes on and the power meter rises a bit (though I think more related to the fan) and not a lot of heat comes out. I tried turning it up to high and there was a definite bit of warmth. I did discover on the way round that I seemed to have the heating on but the bit which shows whether you are heating upper, middle or lower was all in blue so presumably off.

It's not something which bothers me but I might ask Bellingers to take a (free) look at the next service, unless someone here has any ideas. (The fuse was OK btwn unlike the upper socket fuse which I forgot to look at but I think it blew the other day when trying to use a tyre pump)
 

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Very frustrating this time of the year. I was in a similar position a while back in my MY12
I believe the 'MyGreenVolt' app coupled with an OBD dongle gives a breakdown of the consumption so you can see the electrical cabin heater power drain.


Mine came on for up to a minute (going over temp perhaps) and turned out to be the 3 way valve which happened to be my guess and some of the guys here suggested the same.
The dealer went the 1) electric pump, 2) cabin heater replacement route before finally correctly identifying the 3 way valve as the cause.

From underneath the car you should be able to feel a vibration from the pump. I used a screwdriver and put my ear to the handle end. Tricky to get to but I could also feel heat from the 6KW heater pipe (both sides, I think).
My concern was that the impeller may have been damaged, but I knew it was running.
 

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I have an OBDII which works on my daughters Fiesta but not on the Ampera. (I'm pretty sure it's worked in the past though)

Dumb question I expect but do you need to have the ICE running to start it up? (though I guess I'd have trouble getting the "heater on electric" data with the ICE running)

I have another on order, from China. I suppose it will have been isolated in the post for more than 14 days...
 

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The socket I use is in the driver footwell. Bluetooth with my dongle can be a bit flaky,but I have a lot of Bluetooth connections so that probably doesn't help. Once connected I don't normally have any issues.
All the best..
 

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I got back from Portugal in the early hours to find that the OBDII had arrived. So this afternoon I went out with the OBD and there is no increase in current usage when the heater is turned up when on electricity. So it seems that the electric heater isn't working. I checked a couple of fuses that looked OK (engine compartment 13 - cabin heater pump and valve and 37 - cabin heater control module).

Last night while on my way back from the airport I started out on ICE. It seems the heating doesn't come on till it's set to about 23 or higher. Then it comes on pretty hot. Goes cool again when turned down. Almost like it is either cold or hot, not gradual change. Later in the journey I switched to electric drive. It still got hot at 23 but I guess this may be because the matrix still had hot water in it (or am I barking up the wrong tree?)

Can anyone hazard a guess to the cause (and cost to repair)? Or suggest more tests?


EDIT: I just found this thread on another forum. Sounding like the valve, £83.72 here. I doubt that'd be covered under the warranty would it? Car is 15 reg.
 

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I got back from Portugal in the early hours to find that the OBDII had arrived. So this afternoon I went out with the OBD and there is no increase in current usage when the heater is turned up when on electricity. So it seems that the electric heater isn't working. I checked a couple of fuses that looked OK (engine compartment 13 - cabin heater pump and valve and 37 - cabin heater control module).

Last night while on my way back from the airport I started out on ICE. It seems the heating doesn't come on till it's set to about 23 or higher. Then it comes on pretty hot. Goes cool again when turned down. Almost like it is either cold or hot, not gradual change. Later in the journey I switched to electric drive. It still got hot at 23 but I guess this may be because the matrix still had hot water in it (or am I barking up the wrong tree?)

Can anyone hazard a guess to the cause (and cost to repair)? Or suggest more tests?


EDIT: I just found this thread on another forum. Sounding like the valve, £83.72 here. I doubt that'd be covered under the warranty would it? Car is 15 reg.
I am sorry for delay but only just seen your post. The diagnostic tests I did at home to determine if 6kW heater were with heater set to max, and temperature set to max.

My car behaved like a ICE car (so heat only with engine running), plus residual.

If the 3 way valve, mine was not covered by warranty. I rang quite a few dealers to check and the de facto answer was no. You may want to clarify with them.

The part and 1 hour labour should cost you just shy of £150 (Bellinger), so you could choose to take a punt getting them to change the part.
From experience, be sure to check the lead time for the part, and also that it is in, to avoid cancelling an appointment or wasted trip.
If you go the other route, letting them diagnose, then you will be without your car for some time due to awaiting parts and email ping pong between Bellinger and Vauxhall.

All the best
 

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Thanks. Symptoms sound v similar. I don't do many miles, especially on cold mornings, and I can always use the ICE to warm up if necessary, so I need to think about whether that's the best use of £150.
 
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