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I have this and used it on my door seals on my last car and my Ampera, to keep the seals supple and hopefully prevent the doors freezing closed if we have severe cold weather. I've not used it long enough to be sure if it works but it did improve the look and feel of what I did use it on, I'll try some on my now sticking charge port door tomorrow!

Until now I thought it was silicone based, but on looking it up it is silicone-free, hydrocarbon based according to their website.
 

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I cleaned and lubed the rubber seal this morning with Gummi Pfledge, then closed and opened the charge port a couple of times via the remote, it worked fine but it is a milder day today.

However, on using the car this afternoon I got the "Service High Voltage Charging System" message! Would this be because I opened and closed the charge port a few times without plugging in? I've not tried charging since but will be plugging in later to charge overnight.
 

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The message is related to coolant level sensor for the battery system, you need to check the coolant level, if it's OK then it might be the level sensor, there are reports of them failing. The car won't charge until the code is cleared, which needs a dealer system. I don't think you can reset it otherwise.

look up battery coolant level sensor some US volts have bypassed it.
 

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Damn!! I just checked the coolant level and it looks correct to me. Then I plugged in the charge lead and the yellow light stayed on solid, with the SHVCS (Service High Voltage Charge System) message displayed.

Looks like I will need to call Bellinger tomorrow and get over there to have it reset and then fixed. Can anyone tell me a way to find out the fault code/s associated with this message?

Also looks like I will be driving on petrol for a while. Does anyone know if the car will still charge via regen if run in Hold or Mountain mode?

Steve
 

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... SHVCS (Service High Voltage Charge System) message... Can anyone tell me a way to find out the fault code/s associated with this message?

Also looks like I will be driving on petrol for a while. Does anyone know if the car will still charge via regen if run in Hold or Mountain mode?

Steve
Steve, an ELM 327 OBDII dongle off eBay £5, plus Torque Lite free Android app will let you plug into the OBDII socket just below-left of steering wheel. There you can list out the error logs. Goggle, or post here any codes & we can dig deeper for you.

At a guess you may still be able to recharge back up to 1/3 battery capacity using MM, and a bit further if you really want to using regen down hills & switching between Normal & Hold etc, but it's theoretically a bit inefficient doing this. But nicer to the townies!
 

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A quick post as I've spent much time looking into this today as well as dealing with a bit of work! I eventually remembered that I have an OBDII dongle as you mention and the codes (DTCs) were -

P1FFF - Coolant level sensor fault - Hybrid/EV battery charging system disabled.
P1FFB - Open circuit level sensor. (probably caused by a loose connection.)
(P1E00 - turn on check engine light, generic)

I used Torque on my phone to reset the codes which appeared to work for a bit as the error message went away and I could plug the car in late yesterday evening for a delayed charge. However, about 30 mins later I noticed the slow green flashing indicator was solid yellow, then it went out. :(

This morning I checked the codes again and they were the same, so I spent lots of time reading up on the gm-volt forum about the problem. From this I unearthed a GM Service Bulletin (no. PI0961A) all about this problem, pointing to a failed Coolant Level Sensor Fault or the small wiring harness it is connected to.

As both parts are cheap I called Bellinger and my car is booked in for next Wednesday afternoon. I've asked them to order those two parts (sensor & wiring harness), when I go on Wednesday they're going to fit them and clear the DTCs, which can only be done with proper GM authorised equipment. The Torque app seems to clear them but they are still stored in the car.

From all I've read this should fix the problem. If my battery coolant level had dropped (which it has not at all) or there were other DTCs set then I'd needed to have left the car for longer for a full investigation.

I did read on the gm-volt forum that one or two people cleared the DTCs via Torque and were able to charge again, at least for a while. I may try that tomorrow just to see.

In the meantime I now have 34 miles left on the GOM and am driving virtually all the time in Hold mode, a bit like a rather inefficient Prius at around 45 mpg :cry:. One nice silver lining though is that I can crank the heat up as much as I want, which will be great tomorrow as the frost sets in tonight!

The traction battery is not fully disabled, I just can't plug in to charge. Regen works and at times I have an extra green bar in Hold mode. If the battery gets down to near half full I'll switch to MM instead, to keep some EV range to use in 'sensitive areas', like driving down my street or manoeuvring in car parks or very slow town traffic.

I've also ordered the 'Chevy Volt 2011-2015 SHVCS Defeat Plug' from canbustools.com, as recommended on the Volt forum and mentioned by @black_amp above.

Steve
 

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Just tried opening the charge port door in about +1 C and the car still covered in frost (it's in shade), it sprang open perfectly so maybe the Gummi Pfledge works, pity I can't actually charge!
 

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Just after posting the above I reset the DTCs again via my dongle and Torque, then plugged in for an immediate charge which worked! I now have a full battery. It was only a short top-up charge of course, whether it would trip again on a full charge I don't know. The check engine light has gone too. It currently seems to be drawing a bit of power to warm the battery.
 
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The 'Drive Motor Battery Coolant Level Sensor' is Opel part 22922224, £14.82 from www.genuinepartsearch.co.uk.
The 'Jumper Harness' (wiring to sensor) is GM part number 13586114 and is $24.92 from www.wholesalegmpartsonline.com. I could not find the Vauxhall/Open number for this or the UK price but it can't be much different to this.
 

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I will do. No change since my last post, car drives and charges normally, no DTCs and no check engine light. I may end up going to Bellinger next Wednesday with nothing to show them!

Also the charge port door opens perfectly since applying the magic Gummi Pfledge you reminded me of.

I may start a new thread tomorrow for my SHVCS (Service High Voltage Charging System) message/problem, so it is easier for others to find in the future.

Steve
 

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All UK Amperas should have had the modified harness. This was the mod that came after the battery fire after a crash test, which I think was quite the over-reaction, but a 'spare' HVAC harness was co-opted into acting to carry the level sensor signal, and this was pig-tailed on, so not very reliable.

The whole harness was redesigned for this in early 2012, which should pre-date any RHDs.

The level sensor is a nuisance, originally it was deemed not needed, and they were probably right. Other stuff signals a genuine level failure, such as battery flow rates, temperatures, etc..

The error you got probably wasn't this, though. Once it flags an error on level sensor then it should stay flagged, requiring dealer reset.

Personally, I would reset all the error codes, and then disconnect the 12V battery for a day (-ve terminal). Check the battery is still holding 12V after that day, then reattach. This will both prove-out the battery itself, and give the system a proper 'reboot' with no flags present to start with.

I advise anyone heading towards warranty, or has any concerns about dealer support, to go buy themselves the dummy sensor that the guy on gm-volt sells, and fit it. Remember once you do, you have to check the reservoir level on a routine basis, but you should be doing that anyway.
 

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I *think* I'm getting the charge port door issue on my 2015 reg car. I say think, as I call the door used to pop open quite wide when I pressed the button, but now it often looks like it hasn't even unlocked.

I'm going to have a closer look, but I did notice dampness on the rubber seal the other day, and I suspect this would create some suction, keeping it closed (like those suckers you put on glass). If so, I suppose that may be what the spray stuff is preventing.
 
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