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Discussion Starter #1
Hey!

My car is currently sitting with the charger in place and won't unlock it. It shows up the red light. Pressing immediate charge + unlock doesn't work either.

Any other solutions other than calling VW and having them pick it up? (Can it even be easily loaded to a trailer or will the wheels be locked because of the charger?)

I had a flight that day and was leaving the car at VW for annual service, had to leave it stuck to the plug at home 🤷‍♂️

I'm only returning in 6 weeks so I'm a bit worried about leaving it sitting for so long, HV battery is at 90%.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Press the unlock button on the key fob. It worked for me.
That's what I tried immediately after googling, didn't work unfurtunatly.

I found these other options: Bonnet Charge Socket Fails to Unlock
Will see if I find someone to try them for me (I'm abroad now)
1. Make the car loose connection to all active keys.

Lock the car and start walking.

I grabbed both my keys and walked while clicking the "lock" button on the car key every 10 meters.

When the car stopped responding (about 60 meters away (200 ish feet for you M'ericans)) i tried the other key as well, it did not respond.

i waited about 30 seconds and walked back, NOT PRESSING ANY KEYS until i was back within 1 meter of the car.

i pressed the unlock button and the car let go of the charging cable.


Other things to try:

2. Button mashing

Press the unlock button every second whilst also pressing the two buttons located next to the charger port. (the power-cord and power-cord with the watch beside it)

Press these buttons like crazy while firmly pulling and pushing the charging cable in and out of the charging port. (more than 1 person recommended)

This might activate the defective el-motor controlling the charger lock. (if that is indeed the problem)


3. Use the key blade

If you have a keyless car, the lock is located behind the cover 1 cm (1 inch) to the right of the door handle on the driver side.

Be careful when removing. Preferably use a plastic pryer and apply light force from all directions in turn.

Use the bade on the car key to unlock the car.


4. I dunno what this should be called.

Unlock the car.

Get in the driver seat.

Start the ignition. This is done by pushing the on/off button as normal but NOT holding in the brake pedal.

After the car is started, push the brake pedal down as far as it goes, hold for a few seconds and then release.

Turn off the ignition.

Lock the car.

Unlock the car.

The plug should not be loose from the lock.
 

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Sounds like the actuator failed. I had a similar, but opposite problem, actuator would not lock. Expensive out of warranty about £600 to fix.

90% is fine for long term storage. It represents about 85% realistic charge level with top buffer. If worried, turn on the heater using the app a few times and the battery can be effectively drained to 60-70% or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sounds like the actuator failed. I had a similar, but opposite problem, actuator would not lock. Expensive out of warranty about £600 to fix.

90% is fine for long term storage. It represents about 85% realistic charge level with top buffer. If worried, turn on the heater using the app a few times and the battery can be effectively drained to 60-70% or so.
Do you happen to have a part number? It probably is the actuator as I've also had the opposite issue once (would not lock).
 

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Unfortunately I do not but I have attached the service guide for the location. The actuator (F498) is not independently replaceable, without cutting and modifying the wiring harness, something I wasn't prepared to risk so I got the dealer to do it.

The actual part if you can get it separately is like 90 euros. But I couldn't be certain it was the exact part. And didn't want a £14,000 brick on my driveway.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Unfortunately I do not but I have attached the service guide for the location. The actuator (F498) is not independently replaceable, without cutting and modifying the wiring harness, something I wasn't prepared to risk so I got the dealer to do it.
So did the dealer fix just the actuator or replaced the whole charging socket? 600£ sounds steep.

Just checked the charging socket part number seems to be 12E915651D, about 300£ new on ebay. I'm doing full service soon (200k kms), belt included, so hopefully labour cost won't add much more 🤷‍♂️

I'm still hopeful I'll get it unlocked, but If it's going to keep happening I'd rather have it fixed when it's at the dealer for servicing.
 

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They replaced the whole wiring harness, which included 1.5hrs labour. I looked at the job myself and it would probably need either the entire front of the car to be removed or a lift to get the cable out the whole way because it goes behind the front radiator, at least on my car.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Just got a call from the nearest VW. Seems to be 400€ inc VAT for the part (labour they couldn't quote it without looking at it...).

I've had 2 people follow the procedures to try to unlock it but no luck. VW can schedule a technician to come check it out (hopefully by that they mean unlock it...) and take it to servicing.

I'll get back late October and get it done.

I bought the car from a Dutch dealer less than 6 months ago, any idea if this would be considered covered under the used car warranty?
 

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Just got a call from the nearest VW. Seems to be 400€ inc VAT for the part (labour they couldn't quote it without looking at it...).

I've had 2 people follow the procedures to try to unlock it but no luck. VW can schedule a technician to come check it out (hopefully by that they mean unlock it...) and take it to servicing.

I'll get back late October and get it done.

I bought the car from a Dutch dealer less than 6 months ago, any idea if this would be considered covered under the used car warranty?
So the car is still stuck in the charger? Happened to me once also. There was also a faultcode in the charging unit. What I did is this: Remove the front grill, on top of the charging-socket you see the lock mechanism which is held on by couple torx-screws. Remove the locking mechanism and leave the socket itself in place. With the mechanism removed you can unplug the car and press in the locking pin manually (but carefully). After this assemble all back and lock/unlock the car without cable. Worked for me. No problems since.
 

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Yes, you can do what Slate says and it's pretty easy. I did this once when my charger got stuck to the car while I was debugging why it did not lock properly. Very easy to do. When you press the plunger back do it CAREFULLY, very easy to damage the gears...then again if it's broken anyway may not be a big deal because that's what they replace?
 

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I bought the car from a Dutch dealer less than 6 months ago, any idea if this would be considered covered under the used car warranty?
In the U.K. most VW Main Dealer used cars, are sold with a 12 months warranty.

 

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Discussion Starter #13
Are there instructions on how to properly remove the front grill? Don't want to break anything 😅

I'll arrive in a few days and try it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
In the U.K. most VW Main Dealer used cars, are sold with a 12 months warranty.
It's not a VW Dealer, just a regular used car dealer.

They are claiming because it is a sale abroad warranty isn't valid, which is B.S. since it's with in the EU. I'll send it to the Dutch "small stuff court" if ends up needing replacement.
 

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The dealer will try anything to get out of the warranty. However, they are often within their rights to inspect the vehicle, which could be costly if they need to go all the way to Greece (I'm assuming by your country flag).

The best way to get any contrition out of the dealer will be to arrange for an independent inspection, but this could cost some hundred euros or so. You could take the car to a local VW dealer, get the estimate for the repair (you'll probably have to pay for the inspection up front) and send the invoice, and hope you can twist them to pay for the whole bill.
 

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CAUTION: This is a high voltage vehicle. Ensure you keep away from the orange cables - never cut, pierce, or remove the cables without fully examining the vehicle service guide. No liability for injury or damage is accepted - follow all instructions at your own risk!

Regarding removing the front bumper I don't have any detailed instructions but it is really simple. You want to remove the four Torx screws (most screwdriver sets will have a matching bit, it is a common screw used by a lot of European equipment) and then carefully lift up the part - it is held by small plastic tabs but a firm jolt will free it. It will have a small cable or two attached for the buttons and lights on the charging port, but this is easily disconnected. See picture for what you should end up with.

1-Car-front-missing.jpg


Then you can remove the module itself:

2-Charge-port-locking-module.jpg


which fits with two smaller Torx screws, removed in this image. Lift the module out, and the lock will be removed. You can then free the cable easily.

The lock mechanism can be refitted to the car, with the locking pin stuck in the out position; this will make it impossible to reconnect the cable until the mechanism is fixed. You can also attempt to push the mechanism back, however this may damage the locking mechanism (it may already be damaged though, so it is up to you.) It is likely if the mechanism has got stuck in one position that it is faulty, as in my experience, these mechanisms do seem to fail after 4-5 years (mine became intermittent before failing totally.)

If you do decide to do this, refit the mechanism to the charge port using the two small screws, and test it before you place the plastic on. The connectors for the front buttons can be missing for the time being, as the connector should still lock as soon as it is plugged into the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Happy to report that following @tom66 instructions I was able to electrocute myself remove the front grill and locking module. After unscrewing the locking module and pulling it up slightly, I heard it doing its thing and the pin moving.

Took the cable out, placed the module again and started the car (12v battery was low already).

I've tested putting the cable back on and it's locking and unlocking perfectly, so hopefully it was just a stuck pin?

I'll keep the two torx tools in the car as I know it's likely that it gets faulty again.

Thanks @tom66 ! 😀

Edit: It's not locking anymore, but at least the cable isn't getting stuck either :cautious: I'll try to open up the module soon
 

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Looks like you have a failed module then.

I was able to temporarily fix mine but it failed again. I think you need to replace it, or take it to the dealer.

Be interested to see if you can replace it - would certainly have been cheaper than the £600 I paid VW to replace it!!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Happy to report that the locking module is indeed perfectly fine, it just needed a tighter hold onto the socket. I ended up not needing to open the module.

I've been using it for a few days already without any issues.
 
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