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I’m interested to know how the minimum standard to charge an BEV at 1.4 kw was arrived at. Was it to do with the Americans 110 volt granny cable that I believe is only capable of delivering 1.4 kw..
The reason I ask is, I along with a few other people who have solar panels often see anything below 1.4 kw going to the grid rather going to the car through a smart charger, Ive a myenergi Zappi
 

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With a Zappi etc and powerwall i fail to see how anything goes to the grid unless you have huge PV. At low outputs you can use to top up the powerwall or heat the hot water as fits your personal requirements.

Even at 10A charging the losses are high and 6A (4mph) is not worth bothering with and is better spent charging the batt say. With your set up you should be on Octopus Go or Agile charging things at cheap rate.
 

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I’m interested to know how the minimum standard to charge an BEV at 1.4 kw was arrived at.
The standard is 6Amps not 1.4kW whilst in Europe this is 1.380kW (UK 240v 1.44kW) in the US and Japan this is 600watt (japan) and 720watt 120V US on a US 240V supply across 2 phases you get 1.44kW

According to Wikipedia the following is the standard. The 1khHz signal is the one on the CP line and is sent by the EVSE. The car charger can of course set it self to any value upto the maximum defined on the CP line.

The SAE defines the ampacity value to be derived by a formula based on the 1 ms full cycle (of the 1 kHz signal) with the maximum continuous ampere rating being 0.6 A per 10 µs up to 640µs (with the lowest 100 µs x .6 A = 6 A). Above 640µs, the formula requires subtraction of 640µs and multiplying the remainder by 2.5. For example (960 µs - 640 µs) x 2.5A = 80 A.[22]
If you could transform the 240V line from the solar to 120V you could in theory charge at 720 watts as a minimum. I have no idea if a Zappi would work at 120V but the chances are quite good as most kit these days contains a universal power supply (90 to 240v) and the contactor switching the power to the car is simply a switch. Car chargers are also likely to be universal due to selling in different markets. Kia after all do sell in the USA and would you have 2 different chargers on the production line or one universal one ;)
 

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2020 Kia e-Niro
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I’m interested to know how the minimum standard to charge an BEV at 1.4 kw was arrived at. Was it to do with the Americans 110 volt granny cable that I believe is only capable of delivering 1.4 kw..
The reason I ask is, I along with a few other people who have solar panels often see anything below 1.4 kw going to the grid rather going to the car through a smart charger, Ive a myenergi Zappi
I have my Zappi ECO+ set to 60% and it works fine. This is the statement from myEnergi as to how to use it: hope I'm not teaching you to suck eggs :D. Until i read this I was also wondering how I could get more solar power into the car.

"Zappi 2 MGL
So... to understand MGL you need to relate this to the charging standard for electric vehicles. This sets the minimum charge current for the EV's at 6A (which equates to 1.4kW)
In ECO mode, if the surplus generation drops below this level then zappi continues to charge the car but draws the extra power needed from the grid.
In ECO+ mode, with MGL set at the default of 100%, then zappi will suspend the charge if you don't have 1.4kW spare. This means that you will export some of your renewable generation to the grid, and the likelihood is that you will need to import some more power later to charge your EV battery to the required level.
MGL allows you to fine tune the behaviour in ECO+ mode
at 100% - this means that you want to charge your car battery only with local renewable generation. If the spare power drops below 1.4kW then stop charge
At anything less than 100% then the threshold so stop is reduced, so at

75% - charging stops if the surplus generation drops below ~1kW

50% - charging stops at 700W

25% - charging stops at ~ 350W

and at 1% the car will continue charging, capturing every spare kW of local renewable generation but pulling in some power from the grid - only suspending charge of you have a prolonged period of grid import.

Between MGL and the ECO+ Start/Stop timer you can fine tune the zappi so that you charge your car with as much local generation as possible whilst minimising the number of starts and stops

Hope this helps"
 

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So from what I read here the Niro does not have the same capability as the Kona and Ioniq to operate at reduced charge (ie below 1.4kW)? According to my search of this platform and looking at You Tube (EV Puzzle) apparently the Kona can charge at a lower setting from solar without drawing power from the grid. The settings are apparently specific to the car and not the charging unit. I asked Kia this question 3 weeks ago in relation to the Niro and still await an answer.
Can anyone share their experience of this please?
 

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I have my Zappi ECO+ set to 60% and it works fine. This is the statement from myEnergi as to how to use it: hope I'm not teaching you to suck eggs :D. Until i read this I was also wondering how I could get more solar power into the car.

"Zappi 2 MGL
So... to understand MGL you need to relate this to the charging standard for electric vehicles. This sets the minimum charge current for the EV's at 6A (which equates to 1.4kW)
In ECO mode, if the surplus generation drops below this level then zappi continues to charge the car but draws the extra power needed from the grid.
In ECO+ mode, with MGL set at the default of 100%, then zappi will suspend the charge if you don't have 1.4kW spare. This means that you will export some of your renewable generation to the grid, and the likelihood is that you will need to import some more power later to charge your EV battery to the required level.
MGL allows you to fine tune the behaviour in ECO+ mode
at 100% - this means that you want to charge your car battery only with local renewable generation. If the spare power drops below 1.4kW then stop charge
At anything less than 100% then the threshold so stop is reduced, so at

75% - charging stops if the surplus generation drops below ~1kW

50% - charging stops at 700W

25% - charging stops at ~ 350W

and at 1% the car will continue charging, capturing every spare kW of local renewable generation but pulling in some power from the grid - only suspending charge of you have a prolonged period of grid import.

Between MGL and the ECO+ Start/Stop timer you can fine tune the zappi so that you charge your car with as much local generation as possible whilst minimising the number of starts and stops
Very helpful but what i think should happen and what i would like it to do is,

When there is surplus but not sufficient for charging (which i consider to be only worthwhile at 10A ) i want it to charge the Hot Water through the diverter. Then when the surplus is great enough to charge the car and revert back when there is not. Sure you need a time lag to cater for occasional cloud.

Now i have asked MyEnergi on more than one occasion how to do this but to be told it cannot be done, but i have unofficially seen it stated that it can. Another complication is will the car stay alive to accept this on/off charging mode.

Is anybody actually doing it like this ?
 

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jim5452
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This can be done,I have 2 CT clamps, and charge the NIRO at 1.3Kw or higher when the sun is shining, if a cloud drops the output to 300w this is sent to the immersion to heat the water through a unit which is like the IBoost device.
The way this is done is by using a CT sensor on the mains feed in and and another CT on the live to the immersion the current on both are classed as EXPORT, they are then both connected in a junction box and feed to the ZAPPI through a single cable to ct1 inside the ZAPPI housing
 

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jim5452
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>>>>Brilliant -thanks. Does the car have a problem with stop/start charging?<<<<<
As far as I know the charging starts without any bother after the delay I have set, I just plug it in and leave it, sometimes it takes 2 or 3 days but it is pure sunshine and free, I admit not everybody can leave their car for that length of time without needing to use it
 

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This can be done,I have 2 CT clamps, and charge the NIRO at 1.3Kw or higher when the sun is shining, if a cloud drops the output to 300w this is sent to the immersion to heat the water through a unit which is like the IBoost device.
The way this is done is by using a CT sensor on the mains feed in and and another CT on the live to the immersion the current on both are classed as EXPORT, they are then both connected in a junction box and feed to the ZAPPI through a single cable to ct1 inside the ZAPPI housing
Just for clarification do you also have another CT clamp on the main for your "I boost device" otherwise how does the I Boost know to switch on?
 

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jim5452
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Yes that came with the Diverter and detect export on the mains input along with one of the CT's to the ZAPPI the other as I said goes to the immersion live.

These 3 CT measure flow in one direction, I do have other that measure flow in any direction but these are not connected to ZAPPI


The particular diverter I have is an old one 2012 model and switches at 150w as I have heard some only switch at much higher wattage
 

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So from what I read here the Niro does not have the same capability as the Kona and Ioniq to operate at reduced charge (ie below 1.4kW)? According to my search of this platform and looking at You Tube (EV Puzzle) apparently the Kona can charge at a lower setting from solar without drawing power from the grid. The settings are apparently specific to the car and not the charging unit. I asked Kia this question 3 weeks ago in relation to the Niro and still await an answer.
Can anyone share their experience of this please?
My Niro will charge at 700w if I set my Zappi to 50%. I’ve not tried it any lower.

Sun is due out today so I’ll set it at 10% later to see what happens. .
EDIT: At the lower rate of 50% you’ll always get a spike that winds down from the initial standard 7.2kw. Sometimes that winds down is seconds i the times I’ve seen <> 5 minutes So I set my car to a lower Kw and that slows it down.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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jim5452
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>>>>My Niro will charge at 700w if I set my Zappi to 50%. I’ve not tried it any lower.<<<<<
First of all I do not have a E-niro and my ZAPPI is V1, but having said that is it not true that setting the Zappi to 50% will not reduce the "CHARGE RATE" but only allow a higher proportion of "GRID ENERGY"
 

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First of all I do not have a E-niro and my ZAPPI is V1, but having said that is it not true that setting the Zappi to 50% will not reduce the "CHARGE RATE" but only allow a higher proportion of "GRID ENERGY"
As a lead on from the distinction that you make, just wondering if there is anybody who owns a Niro if there is anything in battery management settings in the car itself than can enable charging from solar alone when the panel output is less than 1.4kW? Apparently the Kona and Ioniq have this capability but still awaiting a response from Kia.
 

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So from what I read here the Niro does not have the same capability as the Kona and Ioniq to operate at reduced charge (ie below 1.4kW)? According to my search of this platform and looking at You Tube (EV Puzzle) apparently the Kona can charge at a lower setting from solar without drawing power from the grid. The settings are apparently specific to the car and not the charging unit. I asked Kia this question 3 weeks ago in relation to the Niro and still await an answer.
Can anyone share their experience of this please?
Not sure that the Car has any knowledge of or cares where the electrons come from. So long as the voltage and advertised maximum allowable current meet the Car's requirements, all will be well.
 

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Not sure that the Car has any knowledge of or cares where the electrons come from. So long as the voltage and advertised maximum allowable current meet the Car's requirements, all will be well.
Yep that sounds about right. It’s the allowable current that would appear to be the variable. In my PHEV it’s 1.4kW and I understood that was the standard for all until the Kona info indicated that for certain Hyundai models this could be managed
 

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Yep that sounds about right. It’s the allowable current that would appear to be the variable. In my PHEV it’s 1.4kW and I understood that was the standard for all until the Kona info indicated that for certain Hyundai models this could be managed
Just try setting your EVSE current control until the car stops charging. What happens when you do this?
 

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Thanks Freddy and James, I haven’t got an eNiro as yet. Just considering one to replace a PHEV and I am hoping for an extended test drive. If I manage a test drive and the sun shines I will check with the Kia dealer that I can give this a try.
 
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