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Hello all,

Minor update on both cars -

I've been chatting with Mike regarding the blue car's PEB, he is going to come and collect it and see what he can do, i.e. read the data and program some blank chips. Once he thinks he's successfully programmed some new chips then we'll try it in the car, potentially while monitoring the communication to that chip so that we can see what it does and correct the programming if necessary.

If its not possible to resolve the programming issue then I will sell the car, either with battery or sell the battery separately. I'm not spending 2k on a new PEB then programming it and all the other bits this car needs, its not worth the cost, time and effort with kids, a day job and other projects - i'm waiting for a Peugeot Ion with a popped charger to arrive, tho the good news is i'm nearly done with the battery work on my brother in law's electric moped....

Black car came up with 'Check Electric System' in the last few days, car was still driving fine but AC, cruise control and speed limiter stopped working. Tried clearing fault codes but they came straight back, the fault codes were
DF086 AIR CONDITIONING COMPRESSOR, CAN FAULT
DF107 VACUUM PUMP PRIVATE MULTIPLEX NETWORK

Fault codes seem to say that the car couldn't communicate with the AC. AC compressor is in a tricky location low down in front of the PEB/motor, on the left as you look under the bonnet. There is a black metal cover protecting the wires (orange HV and black comms connectors) and they are not easy to get to. I couldn't get either of these off but traced the orange HV connector onto the BCB, its at the front in the middle, next to a black (comms from charge port) and grey connector (havent worked out what this is yet).

I pulled relevant fuses (numbers 3 and 6) and took off and put back any HV and comms connector under the bonnet that seemed relevant (and that I could actually access) and the errors have now cleared, so just seems like a poor connection. If it returns i'll investigate further but fortunately doesn't seem like anything major.

Also tried to get ZE online services working on the black Zoe but the car is not communicating with Renault. I suspect the sim in the TCU is now inactive as the car was dead for months, i've pulled fuses etc and no joy, suspect that can't be fixed. Oh well.

7Kw home charge port should be fitted tomorrow (2nd attempt as my earth resistance reading was 0.02 ohms too high when they came 1st time, which was a big issue but is fine now I have a bit of paper from UK power networks saying it can't be improved...), I also haven't yet tried a rapid charge on the black Zoe so thats on the list next time i'm passing one. My nearest one is with a company that wants to charge £8 a month, I don't use them that much so its not worth it - so need to go to one further away to try that. Also need to get into Club 100 at some point, ah so much to do :)

Cheers.
 

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Co-author of CanZE. Q210 nov 2013
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The compressor indeed wires to the HV bus because it can draw substantial power. I don't know the exact rating but I have seen 3 kW in my dash on a hot day stopped at a red light.

The reason it's going to the BCB is that next to the charger it is the HV "spider box". At the back of it there are the beefy bus bars running along the orange connectors. Two wires inside run to two fuses located behind the small removable plate on the front. From there, they run straight to the AC HV connector. Those fuses are the easiest access to the HV bus and it's actually used when doing a high voltage current leak test to ground.

You know where to find pics ;)
 

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If its not possible to resolve the programming issue then I will sell the car, either with battery or sell the battery separately. I'm not spending 2k on a new PEB then programming it and all the other bits this car needs, its not worth the cost, time and effort with kids, a day job and other projects - i'm waiting for a Peugeot Ion with a popped charger to arrive, tho the good news is i'm nearly done with the battery work on my brother in law's electric moped....
...
Do you know, if a new PEB would program itself automatically, when it is connected the first time or is a manual programming operation necessary?
 

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Do you know, if a new PEB would program itself automatically, when it is connected the first time or is a manual programming operation necessary?
Peter the EV mechanic that I talk to (and who is probably well fed up of me by now!) certainly made it sound like a manual step.

Thanks
 

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Hello all,
I have also dismounted my PEB now. While doing that, I was wondering
why one plug in the Inverter has no cable connected to it. Do someone know what it is for?
122379
 

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Co-author of CanZE. Q210 nov 2013
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I have speculated earlier that that port is used in the Nordic models for the 400 volt resistor based windshield heater. Earlier mentioned beefy bus bars run directly underneath that connector row.
 

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I had a bus bar replaced when DC-DC was replaced, I think he said there was some kind of coating on it that had cracked (but I might be Chinese Whispering it or thinking of some other part)

Kind of miss having a windscreen heater. Just have to be a little more patient when it's misted up :)
 
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