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I’d take some interior trim, Rlink etc.

Breaking Zoe’s do come up on eBay but they never seem to have many parts available.

Saw a motor for £2k on eBay so breaking it could be very profitable.

Or try those EV conversion garages and sell it as a donor car.


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Right I think this is the plan.

Try and crack the PEB open. If I can, give it to Mike to work on. If he can successfully reprogram it and we haven’t damaged it by then, then the car works and I can get everything on it sorted, MOT it and sell it.
If I can’t open it without damage or Mike can’t reprogram it, put the car roughly back together and take the main battery out.

Then sell the car without battery on eBay, someone can attempt repair themselves or strip for parts. Partco cars seem to sell OK without batteries.

Then I’ll either sell the traction battery on its own or do something fun like use it to get a car out of its lease or make a massive powerwall...

I don’t ideally want to strip it down myself, it’s time consuming and it’s lots of separate sales of each part. Sure you get more money but I’ll have half a Zoe hanging around for ages after, and spend half my life boxing it all up!!

Cheers
 

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So, I got it open. I tried a bolt ground to a pentagon but it was too soft, it rounded when I turned it. I found a large hex bit in a socket set and ground that down to 5 sides then hammered it in and it undid them. Main issue was getting it out of the bolt/plug thing once they were out!! Clearly bits from a socket set are a lot stronger metal than bolts, makes sense.

Anyhow, its stacked circuit boards connected with ribbon cables, i'm guessing pretty difficult for Mike to fire up one circuit board on his bench. I'm not sure it would be possible to power on the whole PEB outside of the car. The car wouldn't be reading the VIN over the can network if we do that anyway, which is what we really want to see.

I'm waiting for Peter the EV bloke to tell me which is the magic chip, then Mike can tell us what he thinks is the best plan of action. I get the feeling that to see something useful the PEB needs to be in the car...

Cheers.

122150


122151
 

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Co-author of CanZE. Q210 nov 2013
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Great job! For Q model owners who need some orientation: Standing in front of the car looking down the under the bonnet, the PEB is located on top of the motor but underneath the big visible aluminium box containing the filter and charger. https://www.autofacil.es/elementosWeb/gestionCajas/AUF/Image/zoe5.jpg

The picture on the previous page shows the PEB in it's correct orientation; orange power cable spider left, connectors pointing up.

In the picture on @G.a.r.y s posted just above the bottom half is oriented in the same "correct" way. It's the bottom half of the PEB and contains basically the control logic and the interface to the electronics and excitation coil of the motor. The top half of the picture shows the upper half "folded open" so the left-right orentation is correct, but it's upside down. Under the visible PCB is a metal block that is the heat distribution for the power electronics there. That again is mounted against the aluminum case, which is water cooled.

It's an incredibly compact build with three sandwiched PCBs. Remember it can push close to 80 kW.
 

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That's a lot of complex surface mount electronics... not too surprising that it goes wrong from time to time! Think how often something like a laptop stays problem free for say 10+ years. Would also hope the waterproofing is extremely robust.
 

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Right @mikeselectricstuff, have a gander at these. Anything of interest there?

These are from the bottom half of the peb, first circuit board and top face of 2nd board.

Hopefully the chip numbers are readable, its hard getting them close up and clear, especially since a bird seems to have moved into my garage and was doing laps over my head !!!
 

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The 8-pin ST M95256 near the big Infineon chip is an EEPROM - most likely the data is there.
Oddly the Infineon chip itself has internal nonvolatile memory that could have been used if they'd wanted to make it a lot harder
 

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Co-author of CanZE. Q210 nov 2013
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Great pics. Thank you!

Edit: interesting build BTW. Seems like the "heavier" components are glued down to protect against vibration damage, but I would have expected a thick layer of conformal coating for that, adding protection against moist. Don't get me wrong, given how solidly this is build I am sure it was a very conscious decision. I'd love to know the reasoning.
 

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The 8-pin ST M95256 near the big Infineon chip is an EEPROM - most likely the data is there.
Oddly the Infineon chip itself has internal nonvolatile memory that could have been used if they'd wanted to make it a lot harder
@mikeselectricstuff Is it worth sending you the circuit board to see if you can read the chip itself or power up the board? I know you said its much better to see the car reading the chip but maybe worth a try as its easier to do?

Cheers.
 

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Hi I have 16 codes LBC anyone know where to get the list from LBC including 10 circuit ground.

DF codes
IMG_20190824_165242.jpg IMG_20190824_164049.jpg
Sorry to high jack the thread.
I have 10 linked to a earth short.
We think it could be a sensor for airbags or trapped cable.
Gary have you taken the bumper off, we think there is a bolt under the head lamp.
I will start a new thread if people want.
Thanks Simon
 

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Hi I have 16 codes LBC anyone know where to get the list from LBC including 10 circuit ground.

DF codes
View attachment 122207 View attachment 122208
Sorry to high jack the thread.
I have 10 linked to a earth short.
We think it could be a sensor for airbags or trapped cable.
Gary have you taken the bumper off, we think there is a bolt under the head lamp.
I will start a new thread if people want.
Thanks Simon
They are not active fault codes. Memory means they have previously been active.

Look for ones that say ‘Active’ at the top.

And yes it’s best to start a new thread.

Cheers
 
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