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Discussion Starter #1
Zoe greeted me with these two errors this morning. I've driven to work OK and the car is now charging fine. The cruise control is not working.

I've checked with CanZE and can't see any DTCs. the 12V battery is reading 13.1V, which is fine. What can I check next to find out where the problem is?

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I'm guessing it was pretty cold where you are this morning?
You'll probably find the message has gone after the traction battery charge, happened to many of us mostly on cold mornings.
When it happened on my first Zoe I disconnected the 12V negative charged it for a few hrs and never saw the massage again (y)
 
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If the cruise control continues not to work then I think it's best contacting a dealer or renault assistance.
 

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the 12V battery is reading 13.1V
Really depends where your checking that. Is the car locked and shut down and your testing the physical battery with a meter?

Or have you used a lighter socket meter, if so I'd say this is low if the car is switched on and active.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Really depends where your checking that. Is the car locked and shut down and your testing the physical battery with a meter?

Or have you used a lighter socket meter, if so I'd say this is low if the car is switched on and active.
It was read with CanZE while the car was charging but otherwise switched off.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm guessing it was pretty cold where you are this morning?
You'll probably find the message has gone after the traction battery charge, happened to many of us mostly on cold mornings.
When it happened on my first Zoe I disconnected the 12V negative charged it for a few hrs and never saw the massage again (y)
It was fairly cold, yes.
 

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If the cruise control continues not to work then I think it's best contacting a dealer or renault assistance.
Cruise control bombs out with a few error messages it also sorts itself when the error message disappears.
 

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I think both cruise control and speed limiter are deactivated automatically when there's a fault with the 12v battery. I used regularly the speed limiter in towns and noticed that on "check electric system" error, it would not engage at all either. Not sure what the reason is...
 

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It was read with CanZE while the car was charging but otherwise switched off.
So the car would be active and that would be the voltage to the battery while the DC-DC was in use. Normally I see 13.1>13.8v when the DC-DC is in use. Try using a meter on the battery when the car is locked (turned off for at least 10mins after you've popped the bonnet). If its sitting mid 12v or over then your battery is probably good. If its very low 12v or less the battery is toast.
 

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Co-author of CanZE. Q210 nov 2013
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Sandy is right. The 13.1 is supplied by the dc dc converter when the car is charging, and is therefor no indication of the 12 volt battery health. The best way forward is go to the dealer or even the proverbial "under the arches" and have them put the battery (disconnected from the car, "off" is NOT enough) on their "toaster". If it fails, don't think twice. Replace. Renault asks too much money for it, but if you shop around, about 80 sounds about right.

Evescu is also right. A red nose (triple failed charge) also disable the CC/SL. However, a successful charge, even if it lasts 30 seconds, clears it all.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I've just measured the battery voltage with the car "off" and it is 12.16V. From data on the internet, that suggests it is 50% charged. I'm not sure whether that's good or bad.
 

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had an R240, got an R90, might get a ZE50
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Thank you @yoh-there for sharing your knowledge that 3 consecutive failed charges gives a red nose. When I was "red nosed" I thought the car had really screwed itself up and it generated some panic as I was 200 miles from home. If I'd known it was just the confirmation of what I already knew ie that the car didn't charge, I'd have been less panicky.
I'll be ready next time.
 

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Odd as very similar error to what happened to me and posted a few days ago. Mine is a ZE40 and only 18 months old, so I seriously doubt is 12V battery. Error cleared and cruise worked later in day.

I had tried to do a remote precondition the morning it occurred, which failed and I still wonder if that somehow contributed to the fault. Not happened since.
 

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Co-author of CanZE. Q210 nov 2013
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I agree. My advice would be, regard it as transient for the time being. S*** happens. If the problem returns, have the 12V battery tested, it's a 2 minute job.

@BogieMan Sure thing. Also, a red nose disables the CC/SL, but the car is still drivable. Which doesn't help with an almost empty battery of course. The biggest mistake you can make is drive to the next charger, ram the plug in and panic more because it still won't charge. Lock nose and car, walk away for 6+ minutes, then retry. If there is no real error, that usually clears everything up. No counting last week when my significant other managed to red nose it on the home charger somehow, I haven't seen it in oh, probably over 2 years. Probably a few extra fixes in that last firmware that fixed the balancing an low SOH.
 

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Ioniq
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It's a pain in the arse that the slightest little thing stops the CC working. We had a BCI last month (our first, no idea why, it had charged fine but I pressed the preheat button on the key, unplugged it a couple of minutes later and bam!) and because we didn't want to loiter around for however long it takes we had no CC for the longest dual carriageway bit of the journey. Just because it doesn't like a charger why does it think I must control the speed the old fashioned way from then on? Bah.
 

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Co-author of CanZE. Q210 nov 2013
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Big Caveat: This is the explanation I got when I asked Renault CS the same question after red nose on indeed the longest trip I ever made with ZOE. I am not endorsing or defending that answer (at all). It's 5 years old info so my wording is off for sure........

The car disables speed control because it detected a fault in the electrical system. Because it cannot determine the very exact nature of the problem, CC/SL is disabled as a precaution. It would be unsafe if the problem was related to that system.
 

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I have had my zoe nearly 5 years had this problem at least once every winter and I have still got the original battery . My Car may not be used for days and this and the cold weather causes the problem.
If I keep my car plugged in and charged between 60 to 80 percent I have no problem .
 

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Ioniq
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The car disables speed control because it detected a fault in the electrical system. Because it cannot determine the very exact nature of the problem, CC/SL is disabled as a precaution. It would be unsafe if the problem was related to that system.
I can understand why they're right and it's probably best to do something like this, but that doesn't mean I have to like it.
 
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