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I knew I was tempting fate telling folks my Zoe was reliable...

Got this error. Car still drives and only thing (so far) I have found not working is cruise. Any suggestions? I can drive to dealer this afternoon but a trek I would like to avoid if simple fix.

IMG_20200203_113307.jpg
 

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Zoe ZE40 R90
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12v battery is first thing to try. Open bonnet, switch off car and wait until everything powers down (15 mins to be safe) then stick a battery charger on the 12v and give it an overnight trickle charge. If it solves the problem, have the battery tested/replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for replies.

Good news. Left it an hour and error has gone. Only 18 months old so hopefully 12V battery not flakey yet?

Was plugged in when it occurred and I had tried a remote precondition so perhaps related to that?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for replies.

Good news. Left it an hour and error has gone. Only 18 months old so hopefully 12V battery not flakey yet?

Was plugged in when it occurred and I had tried a remote precondition so perhaps related to that?
 

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2020 Corsa E
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If it's that young then I'd think it's possibly not charging the 12v properly and it's an actual problem.

Have you got CanZe and an OBD dongle?
 

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Discussion Starter #8

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The draw of current from the 12V battery could have been high for the past few days (maybe with incomplete charging sessions followed by quick run arounds)?

The 12V battery is being charged up only through a DC-DC bridge (from 400V to 14V) and this bridge is not active all the time; I noticed in my previous R240 that it's usually/mostly active during the last few % of a charging session, and in the 15 minutes between car lock and car shut-off (mostly speculation, I have no proof), when the demand on the 12V battery would be minimal. It happened to me on a long journey in winter darkness where I charged and left the stations at around 90%, thus not giving the DC-DC bridge time to charge up the 12V battery (heater fans, headlights and loud music).

If the error is persistent, as in several days, then it's possible that the DC-DC bridge has failed and that's when you pray you still have warranty on the drive train :D In CanZE you can check if the DC-DC bridge is at 13.3V or above; if yes, then no problems. Below, say, 11V, you may need either a new battery or there's a fault.
 

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Speak, Eevee!
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I've had the DC-DC fail but this caused the amber light to be permanent. Just throwing that out there. Most cases it's just a weak 12V battery for whatever reason
 

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Ioniq
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Ours showed this error when we had a battery problem;


It came and went intermittently with no pattern I could see. The range seemed to be dropping beforehand, but I put it down to a change in circumstances which meant more of our miles were urban. Then I noticed the low module voltage in CanZE just before they found the same thing at a service.

Look at the battery voltage heatmap in CanZE, the problem we had was immediately obvious.
 

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I had this error a few weeks ago but only after I had been cleaning the car and had left the doors open for a few hours. It's now five years old and as far as I know has never had the 12v battery replaced.

I assume the fault is a simple voltage check. A quick voltmeter check on the battery confirmed the DC-DC was working fine when the car was fully on but it still took a normal 12v car charger connected for a couple of hours to remove the fault indication. It might have cleared just by leaving the car powered for a few hours but it was getting cold and I didn't want to leave it alone and on.

Been fine ever since. Fingers crossed.
 

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Renault Zoe 50
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I had this error a few weeks ago but only after I had been cleaning the car and had left the doors open for a few hours. It's now five years old and as far as I know has never had the 12v battery replaced.

I assume the fault is a simple voltage check. A quick voltmeter check on the battery confirmed the DC-DC was working fine when the car was fully on but it still took a normal 12v car charger connected for a couple of hours to remove the fault indication. It might have cleared just by leaving the car powered for a few hours but it was getting cold and I didn't want to leave it alone and on.

Been fine ever since. Fingers crossed.
Be careful. You might find that the battery is at the end of its useful life and it may fail if you go away for a couple of weeks and don’t use the car. Especially if the weather is cold.
 

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MG EZS 2020
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Thanks for replies.

Good news. Left it an hour and error has gone. Only 18 months old so hopefully 12V battery not flakey yet?

Was plugged in when it occurred and I had tried a remote precondition so perhaps related to that?
Battery only charges during run time (not during charging). If you do a lot of short journeys then it may not get a full charge. This doesn't help the battery and shortens it life. When my daughter had her's she only regularly drove about a 15 mile commute. Her battery had to be changed (under warranty) at 2 years. Try to fit in a long journey to top it up.
 
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Co-author of CanZE. Q210 nov 2013
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Battery only charges during run time (not during charging). If you do a lot of short journeys then it may not get a full charge.
I am fairly sure this is not correct. From memory it keeps the 12 volt system on 13.1 volt while charging (a fraction under "started state" 13.4 volt). But I will have an extra peek tonight and post here.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
If you do a lot of short journeys then it may not get a full charge
I do an almost 1 hour journey each way to an office at least once a week. Hopefully that helps.
 
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I am fairly sure this is not correct. From memory it keeps the 12 volt system on 13.1 volt while charging (a fraction under "started state" 13.4 volt). But I will have an extra peek tonight and post here.
I wasn't too sure on this, but had heard that other cars don't 'charge' whilst charging. The 12 volt is definitely Zoe's weak point.
 
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Co-author of CanZE. Q210 nov 2013
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I'm afraid I even have to disagree on that. I checked the voltages and it is about the best you can do in a 12V system, and the capacity of the DCDC converter in my old Q210 is a whopping kW 80 amps). I would tend to agree though with the following two statements:-
  • people often do not follow maintenance advice (totally guilty as charged!!!);
  • the detection mechanisms of problems in the 12 volt bus is probably a bit iffy.
Edit: I just checked. Car is charging (several computers including the dash are awake). Bus voltage is kept stable at 13.1 volt.
 
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