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Discussion Starter #1
I've put together a simple install guide for a dual dashcam on the 1.5 Gen Nissan Leaf. There may already be a similar thread here, but I figured it can only help. Much of this can be used to hardwire a cam into most cars. The cam used is a Road Angel Halo, which has parking mode. The cost was circa 200 Euro including the hardwire kit, which is sold separately (usually). I ordered the hardwire kit after the initial installation, so it is not covered in the pre-install video, but it is a simple addition.

Have a look at the pre-installation video to see the general plan.

You will need your dashcam and hardwire kit. Not all cams need a specific hardwire kit to function in park mode, in which case you would only connect to the battery, or "always on" fuse.

Note that the hardwire kit not seen in the video needs to be connected like so:

RED WIRE to the Accessories fuse. This tells the cam to go into driving mode. This the top left 20A fuse in leaf.

WHITE WIRE to Battery, or Igniton fuse (always on fuse). This is for parking mode to work when car is turned off. Bottom middle 10A fuse in Leaf.

BLACK WIRE is the Ground wire and can be connected to any metal point which connects to the chassis. Usually a screw can be found near the fuse board, which can be used. There is a screw to the top left of the board on the Leaf that is OK for Ground. See image below.

The Installation

Take the front cam and stick it into position.

Connect the power line (and rear cam extension line in this case) and run lines into the roof liner, securing and concealing with the mirror cowl.

Run the power lines into the roof liner, left, or right in the direction of the fusebox you are connecting to (left in this case). No tools are needed. When you reach the "A" pillar, use a narrow, blunt object to guide the powers lines into the plastic trim. Do not use anything sharp. You want to feed the line(s) to the door seal.

Run the power line into the door seal and down to the entry point of the fusebox. You may need to remove the door seal partly and feed into the door frame if you want a completely clean install.

door seal removal method

Note: A 12V socket (not supplied) will only be used if not using a hardwire kit. I first used this method and then I did the hardwire install seen in this guide.

Connect the hardwire kit to the blade fuses and tap into the correct fuses (as above). The original fuse is always closest to the blade. The fusebox photo again. Put the fusebox cover back on when done.

Run the extension line for the rear camera along the roof lining from the "A" pillar to the rear of the car. No tools are needed.

To the centre pillar

and to the rear pillar and out

Pierce a small hole through the boot seal on the top corner where the extension line has been run to. I used a key. This gets sealed after you run the wire through the hole, so don't worry about leaks.

and run the wire through

Remove the plastic boot panel as seen in the photo. This pulls out without tools and with a little force about 3-4 inches right of the bottom centre. This is where one of the main clips is located.

Disconnect the rubber "boot" which holds the wiring loom. I used a coat hanger to run the extension line through. TIP - Run the coat hanger through, then secure the extension line to the coat hanger with electrical tape and slowly pull it through.

Stick the rear cam into position. Be sure it is the right orientation.

Run the extension from the rubber "boot", behind the steel frame and to the rear cam. Connect them.

Now you start to tidy up. Plug the boot seals back into their holes. TIP - use a scissors to snip the lips on each end. This lets you slip the extension wire into the cut and easily insert the boot ends.

Clip the plastic boot panel into position.


Now you can start using your dashcam.

I am not an auto electrician. This is for educational purposes only and the author takes no responsibility for the content. You accept any risks should you choose to use any of the content contained. Do not electrocute yourself!

The best there is at what I do
10,651 Posts
Make sure you install the piggy-back fuse holders the right way round, the blade terminal furthest away from where the red wire comes out should be in the live terminal in the fusebox, the terminal directly above are all bridged together, the terminal at the end where the red wire is connected are isolated from each other.

It will work either way round but if it's the wrong way round the red wire will be connected to live via two fuses in series.

9 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Don't pierce the boot seal!
Instead pull off the C pillar trim and feed the wire through where the rest of the loom goes.
Going into the C pillar is a good option. I decided to pierce the boot seal because I knew the wire going through the elastic hole would re-seal the hole. Also the pressure applied to the seal when the boot is closed would seal it right up.
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