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My wife life her charging lead draped over the tow ball of my car and I drove off with it. I have yanked all the wires out but they have only pulled off the spade terminals. I have opened the charge unit but don’t know which wire goes on which terminal. I have 3 main wires and 3 smaller ones (warning LED board I think). Does anyone have a picture of the inside of one showing which wire goes where or a wiring diagram. Alternatively can anyone point me in the right direction to find this info out?
 

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Not sure if my info refers to a similar unit, but let's see:

You say spade terminals, so I assume it's the 13A plug end that's yanked out? I've repaired the plug on one of these so can show you what the small wires connect to. May help work out which one goes where. The black one is a common, the other 2 are resistors that vary with temperature. So you could power-on (assuming you have the 3 big L N E sorted!) and put a voltmeter on the 3 I-assume-small pins on the PCB. Measure the voltages across each of the 3 pins taken in pairs. I'd expect something like 5V on 2 pairs, and 0V on the other pair. So pins could be +5, +5, 0V, Or, may be +5V, 0V, 0V.

(might be 3.3V instead, don't care really).
If it's +5, +5, 0V then connect the 0V to the Black (common). The 2 thermistors are acting as pull-down ressitors, and those +5V pins will drop to maybe 1/2 the voltage they were at, or somesuch.

If it's +5V, 0V, 0V then connect the +5 to the Black (common). The resistors arre acting as pullup resistors, and the 0Vs should rise to a couple of volts or so. Doesn't matter which way to connect the other 2 thermistors, if either gets hot the unit will trip.
See here:
Delphi Granny Charger Repair IC-CPD Aptiv 240V 10A
 

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Not sure if my info refers to a similar unit, but let's see:

You say spade terminals, so I assume it's the 13A plug end that's yanked out? I've repaired the plug on one of these so can show you what the small wires connect to. May help work out which one goes where. The black one is a common, the other 2 are resistors that vary with temperature. So you could power-on (assuming you have the 3 big L N E sorted!) and put a voltmeter on the 3 I-assume-small pins on the PCB. Measure the voltages across each of the 3 pins taken in pairs. I'd expect something like 5V on 2 pairs, and 0V on the other pair. So pins could be +5, +5, 0V, Or, may be +5V, 0V, 0V.

(might be 3.3V instead, don't care really).
If it's +5, +5, 0V then connect the 0V to the Black (common). The 2 thermistors are acting as pull-down ressitors, and those +5V pins will drop to maybe 1/2 the voltage they were at, or somesuch.

If it's +5V, 0V, 0V then connect the +5 to the Black (common). The resistors arre acting as pullup resistors, and the 0Vs should rise to a couple of volts or so. Doesn't matter which way to connect the other 2 thermistors, if either gets hot the unit will trip.
See here:
Delphi Granny Charger Repair IC-CPD Aptiv 240V 10A
Hello, thank you very much for the info. I had a similar problem, and thanks to you I'm able now to connect the 3 small pins on the board. Can you help me sorting out the position of 3 big ones (L N G)? Maybe with a pic of board with them connected?
 

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Sadly I don't have any pics of the inside of the EVSE, but a search on Google Images for "Delphi EVSE" came up with links, such as this one. Hope this helps!

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Hello again,
sadly I found no pics of the inside of our delphi charger. I can try guessing the position of the spade terminals by the cable lenghts, but I am scared of connecting them wrong.
 

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The only way to work it out is to analyse the wiring. Basically it's a large switch, and there are 2 relays inside it I expect. Probably they use the same type relay. Usually 2-pole relays, normally-open type. The actual circuitry for the L N E wires to the car from the mains is very simple.

Research the connections in the Type 2 plug & make sure you know exactly which one is L, N, E.

I expect the E wire to go from the mains through one relay, straight to the E on the car. You should be able to trace the wiring through the PCB, it will be a very large track. Only one pole will be used.

I expect the other relay to have 2 poles in use, one pole for L, other for N.

Sometimes the mfr uses 2 relays in series, so you may find L & N going through one relay and then another. This is a technique to make it easier for relays to cut out any arcing that may be happening when trying to stop current slowing, but I think it's unlikely.

More clues about what's what:
You may also find the L & N wires going through a circular ferrite ring = Current Transformer (CT), this will be a Residual Current Monitor detection device.
You may also find the E wire going through a CT, this will eb PEN-fault detection device.

It's also possible the E might not go through a relay. Domestic appliances will be permanently connected to E for safety, but outdoor things like an EV granny charger should really have PEN-lodd protection built in, which needs to be able to isolate the E line as well as L & N for complete safety. There are situations whe the E can go dangerously high voltage through no fault of the car or the house or the homeowner!

Here's a link to how a wall-mounted EVSE can be made, in essence it's identical to a granny charger. This one has all the latest safety features in, PEN-loss detection & RCM (DC 6mA leakage current) optional device.
https://viridianev.co.uk/s/EVSE-Protocol-Controller-20-EPC-20-Manual-Iss-12.pdf
 

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The only way to work it out is to analyse the wiring. Basically it's a large switch, and there are 2 relays inside it I expect. Probably they use the same type relay. Usually 2-pole relays, normally-open type. The actual circuitry for the L N E wires to the car from the mains is very simple.

Research the connections in the Type 2 plug & make sure you know exactly which one is L, N, E.

I expect the E wire to go from the mains through one relay, straight to the E on the car. You should be able to trace the wiring through the PCB, it will be a very large track. Only one pole will be used.

I expect the other relay to have 2 poles in use, one pole for L, other for N.

Sometimes the mfr uses 2 relays in series, so you may find L & N going through one relay and then another. This is a technique to make it easier for relays to cut out any arcing that may be happening when trying to stop current slowing, but I think it's unlikely.

More clues about what's what:
You may also find the L & N wires going through a circular ferrite ring = Current Transformer (CT), this will be a Residual Current Monitor detection device.
You may also find the E wire going through a CT, this will eb PEN-fault detection device.

It's also possible the E might not go through a relay. Domestic appliances will be permanently connected to E for safety, but outdoor things like an EV granny charger should really have PEN-lodd protection built in, which needs to be able to isolate the E line as well as L & N for complete safety. There are situations whe the E can go dangerously high voltage through no fault of the car or the house or the homeowner!

Here's a link to how a wall-mounted EVSE can be made, in essence it's identical to a granny charger. This one has all the latest safety features in, PEN-loss detection & RCM (DC 6mA leakage current) optional device.
https://viridianev.co.uk/s/EVSE-Protocol-Controller-20-EPC-20-Manual-Iss-12.pdf
Hello again,
here are some pics of the inside of my charger. I connected the 3 big pins, as said, just looking at their cable lenghts. I manage to connect the 3 small pins looking at their voltages once I can turn the charger on.
Does this help more?

Thank you very much for the time you dedicating me.
 

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I'm not clear what you're trying to connect up. Looks to me from the first picture that you have L N E all connected.
The big square Panasonic box is a relay. Has 2 35A poles for L & N, and a 3rd low-power pole that can be used to detect relay failure if contacts get welded. Here's a link to the datasheet for that. https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/2280722.pdf

I assuming you want to know how the purple, white & orange wires connect? You will need a resistance meter. You need to measure the resistance between each of the 3 wires. There are 2 temperature sensitive resistors, and one end of them is connected together. Suppose these are 10,000 ohms each. You will get a reading of 20,000 ohms across one pair of wires, this means you have the 2 unconnected ends. Connect these 2 wires to terminals T1 & T2. The other wire will read 10,000 ohms to each of T1 & T1 wires. This is the common terminal. Connect this to the remaining terminal labelled gnd.
 

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I'm not clear what you're trying to connect up. Looks to me from the first picture that you have L N E all connected.
The big square Panasonic box is a relay. Has 2 35A poles for L & N, and a 3rd low-power pole that can be used to detect relay failure if contacts get welded. Here's a link to the datasheet for that. https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/2280722.pdf
Yes, I connected them myself but they were unplugged when I opened the charger because it was accidently stretched. So I am not sure if they are now connected properly, and that's why I was wondering if exist some test I can do to be sure I connected them back correctly.

I assuming you want to know how the purple, white & orange wires connect? You will need a resistance meter. You need to measure the resistance between each of the 3 wires. There are 2 temperature sensitive resistors, and one end of them is connected together. Suppose these are 10,000 ohms each. You will get a reading of 20,000 ohms across one pair of wires, this means you have the 2 unconnected ends. Connect these 2 wires to terminals T1 & T2. The other wire will read 10,000 ohms to each of T1 & T1 wires. This is the common terminal. Connect this to the remaining terminal labelled gnd.
that's so precious information, thank you!
 

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So for L N E you MUST check the route the current takes through the input wires, onto the PCB, through the relay, and out to the Type-2 plug. I would expect the E wire to also be the Earth (GND) for the electronics, so that pin labelled GND for the thin wires may well be connected directly to the big E wire. Check carefully with a meter!
 

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So for L N E you MUST check the route the current takes through the input wires, onto the PCB, through the relay, and out to the Type-2 plug. I would expect the E wire to also be the Earth (GND) for the electronics, so that pin labelled GND for the thin wires may well be connected directly to the big E wire. Check carefully with a meter!
Thank you very much, will try that tomorrow :)
 

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Hi again, I've just discovered some pic of a Mercedes Aptiv I repaired! I think it's the same as yours. Here are the pics!
Looks like I swapped out the relay, and replaced the plug with a new one.
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