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Discussion Starter #1

About to buy this EVSE due to its long 10m length, but always worry about lots of cheap poorly made stuff that seems to come up when you look online for them.

Does anyone have any experience with this shop or this device, or be able to recommend another?

Thanks!
 

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Sorry don't own this EVSE.

The good news is that the unit is IP56. The bad news is that the datasheet is short on details, such as relay contact checks, DC6mA earth leakage checks, diode checks etc.

Possibly worth considering much more flexible and properly and openly specced OHME cable which is the same price via Octopus and comes with the CEE / Commando inlet lead (which you can change to whatever length you require). Making a CEE to BS1363 adaptor is a cheap and trivial exercise.

regards
 

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Thanks! Do you have a link to it at all?
If you have an existing granny cable you could just get an extension from Tough leads.
 

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If you have an existing granny cable you could just get an extension from Tough leads.
I have one of these very happy with it.
 

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I have one of these very happy with it.
Thanks for that, yes I currently have a very nice set up with a thick orange cable with commando plugs on each end which connects to my Nissan Granny.

Not a bit of warmth on any of the plugs or lead.

I want to stop using my Nissan Granny as I can then keep it in the little zip up bag only for use when at families / emergency, and have my day to day charger more of a disposable one I don't mind leaving out in all weather.
 

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The one you posted is 10A continuous. I have one from Evconnectors.com, and I like the fact that I can set it to 6,8,10 or even (!!) 16A! Not that I use the 16A - clearly meant for when it has a Commando plug fitted. I like the 6A a lot for use when my solar panels are generating; being retired, the car's often on the drive during the day. But if you're commuting daily, this will be far less relevant. I also like using the 6A when charging on my extension lead on away trips/hols, as this make it all far less likely to overheat.
 
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The one you posted is 10A continuous. I have one from Evconnectors.com, and I like the fact that I can set it to 6,8,10 or even (!!) 16A! Not that I use the 16A - clearly meant for when it has a Commando plug fitted. I like the 6A a lot for use when my solar panels are generating; being retired, the car's often on the drive during the day. But if you're commuting daily, this will be far less relevant. I also like using the 6A when charging on my extension lead on away trips/hols, as this make it all far less likely to overheat.
Andy that’s great and looking at it seems a more robust better charger, also love that it has the 16a setting!

So if set to charge at 16a will I get the full 3.6kw if I connect it to a commando?
 

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Care is needed with using Level 2 charging - it is slightly less safe than Level 3, so Level 2 chargers should only really be used for occasions where a Level 3 is not available such as visiting your "Granny".
That I cannot point to someone being killed by this doesn't mean that there isn't the potential for serious injury, and units getting bricked by water are not uncommon.
Some units are not completely waterproof and need shielding from immersion in water - I suspect that the unit being referred to is IP55 and in this category. Even when IP55 rated there are sometimes questions as to how robust this is and whether there is potential for damage from rain.
[SPOIL SPORT MODE OFF]
Now I’m stuck as the ohme looks great too and would stop the need for charge timers.

Do you know if it would work without the app? I guess I worry it will stop working if no signal or they go bust.
It can be used as a dumb charger when it is without a signal and potentially if they go bust - there appears to be no living will for the software or provision of a crippleware version.
 

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[SPOIL SPORT MODE ON]
Care is needed with using Level 2 charging - it is slightly less safe than Level 3, so Level 2 chargers should only really be used for occasions where a Level 3 is not available such as visiting your "Granny".
That I cannot point to someone being killed by this doesn't mean that there isn't the potential for serious injury, and units getting bricked by water are not uncommon.
Some units are not completely waterproof and need shielding from immersion in water - I suspect that the unit being referred to is IP55 and in this category. Even when IP55 rated there are sometimes questions as to how robust this is and whether there is potential for damage from rain.
[SPOIL SPORT MODE OFF]

It can be used as a dumb charger when it is without a signal and potentially if they go bust - there appears to be no living will for the software or provision of a crippleware version.
Your not a spoil sport at all, I love your posts!!!

Basically I don’t have off road parking, but my back neighbour has a big drive right behind my fence so currently I use a big high amp extension cable to charge, say 3-4 days a week overnight.

So my plan to set something up (as cheap as possible) that will allow me to pull out a permanently connected cable and plug in easy.

I will have a commando socket installed on outside wall, run a tough outdoor cable from that along the fence to something such evse or type 2 home charger.

No way will a sparky permanently wire a cable into my consumer unit unless it’s all within standards such as an armoured cable with appropriate depth and protection for it.

However he could wire a commando socket then I’ll sink a big cable under my path to where I need it.

Its the other end that’s bothering me, at this point I think a evse such as those discussed is the cheapest easiest temporary option. Maybe if I add some shrink wrap to the box or some other type of weatherproofing.

Not ideal but my situation is somewhat unique to say the least!
 

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The issue with L2 chargers is Earthing which can only be based on the house earth, and not one necessarily suitable for the possibly different conditions where the car actually is. What form of Earth wiring does the house have (it is stated in the meter box)?

The issue with the IP55 rating can be got around by putting the brick into a suitable enclosure with appropriately routed entrance and exit cables - there have been some very good examples posted on here with the Ohme unit.
 

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The issue with L2 chargers is Earthing which can only be based on the house earth, and not one necessarily suitable for the possibly different conditions where the car actually is. What form of Earth wiring does the house have (it is stated in the meter box)?

The issue with the IP55 rating can be got around by putting the brick into a suitable enclosure with appropriately routed entrance and exit cables - there have been some very good examples posted on here with the Ohme unit.
The face my fuse board is literally just that a bakelight box with wired fuses Im not sure it’s modern earthing, whatever they used in 1972 I guess! Lol We still have 1 or 2 round pin sockets!
 

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Andy that’s great and looking at it seems a more robust better charger, also love that it has the 16a setting!

So if set to charge at 16a will I get the full 3.6kw if I connect it to a commando?
Yes. But don't go swapping the 13A plug carelessly! You'll cut the temp sensor wires as well. I have in fact tried 16A on mine, despite only having a 13A socket, as I know for a fact that my Ampera maxes-out at 14A no matter what it's offered. A couple of minutes of htis didn't blow the 13A fuse! So in this respect it's looking exactly like a 16A wall-unit does. I only tried this just to see if it works, and it certainly does on mine. It's 4 years old now, who knows, thay may have tweaked the software on their 13A version to limit this. But as they offer 16A elsewhere, I reckon even their 13A ones will do 16 still!

It looks like evconnectors.com have a custom changeover plug, so the 13A plug has a short lead with special adapter on, letting you plug in their Commando plug for 16A use. That's going to be the one to get I suggest. When I switch mine on, the highest current setting is 10A - it remembers the last one, but won't restart at >10. Then you simply press & hold the start & stop buttons simultaneously to get the power selection option, press the on button twice to up it to 13 then 16A on the front strip display, and that's it. You can reduce/increase the current during a charge if you want.

Mine's had a lot of use over this period, as I use it more than the wall EVSE. I'll set it to 6 or 8 or 10A depending on what my solar panels are doing, and wall unit isn't solar-aware (yet).

I had a failure on it last winter which came on gradually; it would overheat after 1/2 an hour on 13A, so I reduced to 10A. That worked for a month or so, then started overheating on 10 & I reduced to 8A, ok for a bit than that stated overheating and only 6A was reliable overnight. At that point I stripped it, checked everything and found that the main relay was overheating, points must have got spark-eroded or whatever. So I swapped that out for a replacement unit from Farnell (there's a thread on here somewhere), and it's now fine again. So do be prepared for it to need repairing in 3-4 years of hard use. These things have to be enclosed to keep rain out, and that makes it very hard to keep the insides cool, so some premature wear is maybe likely as a result. We've seen other granny EVSEs have this same problem, and they do seem to be using much the same kind of 30A relays in.
 
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It's normally on the meter rather than the fuseboard, all sorts have been used over the years.

@Tooks did a very neat installation of an Ohme unit:

Just an update on this box.

It’s been performing great, but I have come across a small issue lately, owing to all the rain we’ve been having.

I found a couple of times the RCD to my 32A CEEFORM switched box had tripped.

I’ve changed where I park my car, which has necessitated using a 8m 32A Commando extension. It’s a quality cable, but the connectors themselves only have an IP44 rating.

A brief investigation showed that the connector that the Ohme EVSE plugs into had a lot of water in it. More worryingly, the Ohme Commando connector also had water in it, it looks like in both cases the water had got past the cable glands into the heads.

The Ohme box itself was still water tight, perhaps my heath robinson lid had done the job.

So I decided I needed to make a more waterproof solution to protect the plugs and unit from the worst of the rain.

I found a 360mm x 240mm IP65 rated cabinet that I could wall mount, and with some 20mm U holes drilled in the bottom I could run the cables out of it, and afford the setup some weather protection.

I did it a couple of days ago, we’ve had plenty of rain and the unit and plugs are dry and no more tripping.

Something worth doing if your Ohme box lives outside perhaps.

View attachment 128479
View attachment 128480
In theory you should get the "brick" as near to the property as possible and purchase one with a longer lead between the brick and the vehicle - but I don't think that Ohme offer this option.

Otherwise you'll need a vertical interlocked waterproof Commando socket fitting and make yourself an extension lead with commando plugs at each end (waterproof at the interlocked socket end) and something similar to @Tooks enclosure at the other end, presumably on your side of the fence near to the car with the lead thrown over the fence when charging.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Brilliant! That’s fantastic @HandyAndy , thanks for the info that it’s serviceable!

@dk6780 I will do as you suggest and make my own cable with decent commando fixings, the off the shelf stuff seems naff.

@Tooks I actually called Ohme and they are fantastic, really helpful and friendly. I asked about being able to vary the current and he said you cannot in the app but it’s something that may be coming, but you can call to have the current changed by them. They don’t want this to be a regular thing but would do it to reduce it for example if going on holiday taking it down to 6amp for safety.

He also said they work as dumb cables if no sim reception, but there is an issue sometimes that it sticks the preset timer on, so if you go on holiday to a know remote area said to pause the automated timer to make sure you can use it at any time.

Just off the phone to a sparkey who is coming to quote tomorrow to have by fuse board replaced by something 21st century
 

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The face my fuse board is literally just that a bakelight box with wired fuses Im not sure it’s modern earthing, whatever they used in 1972 I guess! Lol We still have 1 or 2 round pin sockets!
Our old house was a 1976 with a bakelite CU and wired fuses. It was TN-C-S (PME).
I did fit an RCD in the supply to the CU when we moved in, but never changed the CU.

But we had all 13A sockets - nothing round.
 
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