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Does leaving the “ignition” on damage ev

4501 Views 44 Replies 15 Participants Last post by  Dan87
Title says it all but if I were to say leave the ev on for a length of time will it damage anything ? I use a 1500w inverter on for my power tools so need it on for a while . Thanks in advance
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Depending on the vehicle you could kill the 12v battery. This relies on the dc:dc converter running and keeping the battery topped up. You should check the size of tha 12v unit fitted and the size of the converter as many are small due to not having to start the car.
The new ones with VTL (vehicle to load) would be ideal for your use.
Cheers , I have a 150w solar with mppt controller feeding the 12v to give it some help . I was thinking of getting a larger capacity 12v battery too
You'd be miles better with a small dedicated generator.

The 12v batteries in EVs are generally smaller as they don't need the CCA of ICE vehicles. That also translates into a smaller overall capacity.

You'll drain the battery quicker than it can be recharged. Given that they generally only recharge when the ignition is on, but having the ignition on has its own draws it won't have a huge margin for other stuff.
Title says it all but if I were to say leave the ev on for a length of time will it damage anything ? I use a 1500w inverter on for my power tools so need it on for a while . Thanks in advance
1500 w on a 12V battery? That's a lot of amps. Can never be good.

Get yourself an EV with V2L such as the Ioniq5 or the EV6. You then get an outlet with 3 kW of power that draws directly from the traction battery.
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facelift e Niros and facelift ZS EVs have v2l too.

Which power tools are you using? Most tools these days have battery versions. If you have 3k to burn, can also look into Festool's Powerstation.
E-Niro has a utility mode in which the 12V power is provided entirely by a DC-DC converter from the traction battery, but you'd need to check on its power capacity before relying on it. And other EVs won't be the same.
Depending on the vehicle you could kill the 12v battery.
Do you have any evidence to back up this claim, or are you trying to start another EV myth?

The reason an ICE ignition couldn’t be left on for a long time (historically) is that it could damage the coils ignition if there was no load on them. But this may not be true with more modern systems.
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By -kill- the battery I mean discharge to a state you will need a jump start to get the ev going. Look at the Ampera, 1kw dc converter, idle @100 - 200 Watts, put a 1500 watt load on it for more than a few mins and the small battery will need a boost.

You do need to check the converter rating for the vehicle before putting a substantial load on the 12v. The v2l using the high power Inverter and traction battery is the way to go IMO
By -kill- the battery I mean discharge to a state you will need a jump start to get the ev going. Look at the Ampera, 1kw dc converter, idle @100 - 200 Watts, put a 1500 watt load on it for more than a few mins and the small battery will need a boost.

You do need to check the converter rating for the vehicle before putting a substantial load on the 12v. The v2l using the high power Inverter and traction battery is the way to go IMO
Erm, when the ‘ignition’ is on in an EV it’s normally charging the battery.
If the converter is less powerful than the load which is plugged in then the battery drains. Hopefully the ev will shut down before its too flat. You can not rev an ev to get more amps unlike an ice alternator.
The ice alternators tend to be more powerful as well, the 2litre Focus has a 1.8kW unit for example. Easier to run large loads off.
If the converter is less powerful than the load which is plugged in then the battery drains. Hopefully the ev will shut down before its too flat. You can not rev an ev to get more amps unlike an ice alternator.
The ice alternators tend to be more powerful as well, the 2litre Focus has a 1.8kW unit for example. Easier to run large loads off.
Please show data to support your theory.
Not sure what you problem is? If the load on the 12v system is greater than the capability of the DC converter then the battery will supply the extra power. Keep it up too long and the battery voltage will drop. What happens next depends on the car. Hopefully it will shut down before the battery is drained to much.
Not sure what you problem is? If the load on the 12v system is greater than the capability of the DC converter then the battery will supply the extra power. Keep it up too long and the battery voltage will drop. What happens next depends on the car. Hopefully it will shut down before the battery is drained to much.
So which cars does this happen with?
1500 w on a 12V battery? That's a lot of amps. Can never be good.

Get yourself an EV with V2L such as the Ioniq5 or the EV6. You then get an outlet with 3 kW of power that draws directly from the traction battery.
Bit excessive changing the whole car just for this reason :ROFLMAO: .

Like I suggested, why doesn't the OP just buy a small generator set.


It's exactly what they're designed for, portable power when there isn't a mains sockets somewhere.

I agree V2l is a nice feature if you're changing anyway, but hardly worth it in this instance.
So which cars does this happen with?
Speaking from experience. Hyundai. I’ve had it happen in my old Kona and heard people say similar about their Ioniq too but haven’t tried that myself yet.

I put the car in utility mode and used the inverter connected to the 12v battery. Below 800w the car will happily keep going for hours no problem at all. But for some reason I found that if you go above this the voltage will gradually drop until the inverter shuts off. Within a few minutes of there no longer being a load on the battery it will recharge it again and all is well. But if you switch the car straight off while trying to work out what’s going on - You’re not restarting the car without boosting it.

In theory the car should have no problem handling a fair bit more than 800w but that was a pretty consistent finding each time I tried. And the inverter was proven to be good having tried it in an ICE car which happily kept going.
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Speaking from experience. Hyundai. I’ve had it happen in my old Kona and heard people say similar about their Ioniq too but haven’t tried that myself yet.

I put the car in utility mode and used the inverter connected to the 12v battery. Below 800w the car will happily keep going for hours no problem at all. But for some reason I found that if you go above this the voltage will gradually drop until the inverter shuts off. Within a few minutes of there no longer being a load on the battery it will recharge it again and all is well. But if you switch the car straight off while trying to work out what’s going on - You’re not restarting the car without boosting it.

In theory the car should have no problem handling a fair bit more than 800w but that was a pretty consistent finding each time I tried. And the inverter was proven to be good having tried it in an ICE car which happily kept going.
I think you’ll find the Hyundai will kill the 12v battery all by itself, without any load from an inverter.
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I think you’ll find the Hyundai will kill the 12v battery all by itself, without any load from an inverter.
Also a very valid point. Though interestingly even after doing this I never randomly found my 12v battery to ever have just died on me. If that had happened then I could have blamed their poor quality small capacity batteries rather than the car itself for acting up when handling bigger loads.
Also a very valid point. Though interestingly even after doing this I never randomly found my 12v battery to ever have just died on me. If that had happened then I could have blamed their poor quality small capacity batteries rather than the car itself for acting up when handling bigger loads.
So how do you draw 800W when the 12v has a 180W rating on it?
So how do you draw 800W when the 12v has a 180W rating on it?
As I said. I was connected directly to the battery. Not the 12v socket in the cabin. It's only the socket that has a 180w limit.
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