Speak EV - Electric Car Forums banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
300 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone know if there is a power supply available within the courtesy light binnacle (in the front centre roof) that can be utilised to power a front dash cam rather than feeding a cable around the window trim to the fuse box.

In the absence of a 12v accessory port in the boot area, again has anyone any idea whether there is power available within the boot area to power a rear dash cam? I want the front and rear cameras to be independent (not interconnected).

Can anyone shed any light on this before I start prising trims off to investigate?

I would be interested to learn the experience of others who have fitted a front and rear dashcam in a Niro.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
300 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I am not aware that I have!

Where is the other one?

I only see 1 post here
 

·
Registered
Kia E-niro 4+
Joined
·
121 Posts
Where is the other one?
I wondered the same - might be worth removing one so threads of conversation take place in one location. Will make it easier for others to find information in the future...

I'll certainly be keeping my eye on an further responses - A dashcam is something I'd be keen to dabble with!

144344
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
300 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
might be worth removing one so threads of conversation take place in one location.
Thanks for the heads-up. 👍

I think what happened was the post content was still showing in my reply box so naturally I assumed that the thread had not been posted, so it got reposted in error.🥴

I can't find a way of removing the post, so I have endorsed the other post accordingly requesting that a moderator removes.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Whitling2k

·
Registered
Joined
·
137 Posts
Does anyone know if there is a power supply available within the courtesy light binnacle (in the front centre roof) that can be utilised to power a front dash cam rather than feeding a cable around the window trim to the fuse box.

In the absence of a 12v accessory port in the boot area, again has anyone any idea whether there is power available within the boot area to power a rear dash cam? I want the front and rear cameras to be independent (not interconnected).

Can anyone shed any light on this before I start prising trims off to investigate?

I would be interested to learn the experience of others who have fitted a front and rear dashcam in a Niro.
I had my Nextbase 522 system fitted by Halfords. Feed to rear camera comes from front camera. This is obviously power but I presume also a video stream as well. I did not feel I had the expertise in safely removing the trim panels without damaging them now everything is held in place by plastic clips. 1970 cars had proper screws!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
300 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Feed to rear camera comes from front camera.
I don't want this setup, I want independent front and rear cameras.

I installed such a system on my previous car, spent a whole weekend installing it.

Feeding the cable along the trims was tricky, the headlining was particularly laborious and taxing, risking damage to trim and headlining in the process.

All done though, after a lot of neck aching, back braking contortions with a modecum of cussing.

A couple of weeks post-installation I noticed that the dab radio became troublesome. Stored stations simply disappeared, the dab station kept jumping off-station to other non-stored stations arbitrarily, if the station did stay in tune the volume would be irratic, often going off for several minutes at a time.

Dab became unusable. Unaware of the cause, to save my sanity I transferred to using FM radio. All seemed ok for another couple of weeks until the FM radio started playing-up also.

Some searching on Google and back-reviews of the product suggested that the dash cam could be the problem, so I disconnected power the dash-cam, hey presto everything was back to working properly.

By then, I was now lumbered with a dash-cam install that was useless. A major hassle removing it all, so I decided not to bother, leaving it installed but out of use. A complete waste of a few hundred £££'s and hours of my time both with the install and all the weeks of hassle afterwards.

Hence my desire of unconnected front & rear cameras.

If I don't get any response on this thread from others who have some experience with an install, I will investigate the possibility of connecting the power to the front camera from the interior light wiring in the overhead binnacle, surely there must be a usable power source here?

The rear camera is more of an issue as there is no power outlet in the boot area to feed the camera. There is nothing at the rear of the car that is likely to be powered-up when the ignition is on afaik, so there may not be any power source in this vicinity.

I don't want to waste hours of my time and risk damaging trim if someone already knows that there is no suitable power to be had.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,158 Posts
I'm surprised manufacturers have not started putting USB sockets near where people want to install the cameras. Maybe it's a chance for the dealer to make a few quid.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
300 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'm surprised manufacturers have not started putting USB sockets near where people want to install the cameras. Maybe it's a chance for the dealer to make a few quid.
Skoda already do......

144350
 
  • Like
Reactions: Rei

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
I did mine the hard way, with a fuse jumper and cable under the trim. Wasn't too difficult. The thing that was the most awkward was finding a good ground location. In the end, I found that a hinged spanner could just turn the nut in the driver side fuse box, 1 flat at a time. I thought about a rear camera too, but suspect it would need a cable to be fed in. The nearest point I can think of is the USB socket in the centre console. I guess it's off when not running, but haven't checked. Otherwise it would be another wire right from the front.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,158 Posts
Since a lot of cars have cameras already it would be nice if you could tap into them for recording.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
I've checked, and the middle USB turns off when I stop the car. I can't see there being any usable power at the rear when driving forward in daylight . The reversing camera, tail lights, etc. will be off, unless you want to drive around with your lights on all the time (as in Sweden 🙂)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
319 Posts
By then, I was now lumbered with a dash-cam install that was useless. A major hassle removing it all, so I decided not to bother, leaving it installed but out of use. A complete waste of a few hundred £££'s and hours of my timeboth with the install and all the weeks of hassle afterwards.
Just saying, the rear cameras are DESIGNED to avoid such interference, the fronts are usually not. Fitting a front cam to rear will therefore probably be more likely to cause DAB interference as there is a lot more electronics in a full cam unit than just a camera sender unit. The fit is difficult to the rear and it will avoid interference if ran in right places -> but you do need to remove trim for it. Cheaper cameras are not shielded, and will cause interference. Ie, your "solution" to interference in this electronic engineers eyes is more likely to cause it.

I've heard of many cases of cams interfering with DAB.
I can however confirm my professionally fitted Nexbase (from dealer, but a profesional 380GWX front and rear stealth setup) does not, and it was actually fitted for less than the online supply cost of the cam that I could find from halfords or anywhere (ie, the dealer actually done a very good deal on this for me), as part of sale of car, as I indicated I didn't want a consumer cam, I wanted a profesional one as used by cabbies etc. I see no wires, have no interference. Can highly reccomend the nextbase units, and you do need to use their cabling kits as they are shielded to avoid dab interference.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
300 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I've checked, and the middle USB turns off when I stop the car. I can't see there being any usable power at the rear when driving forward in daylight . The reversing camera, tail lights, etc. will be off, unless you want to drive around with your lights on all the time (as in Sweden 🙂)
🤔 I don't think there are usb leafs long enough to reach from the rear usb to the rear window.... Probably needs to be around 6metres long.
the rear cameras are DESIGNED to avoid such interference
As stated in my original post, this wasn't the case with the one I had. I guess it's the luck of the draw.
 

·
Registered
Kia e-Niro 4+ Yacht Blue. Jan 2021
Joined
·
156 Posts
I have a nextbase 322GW that I have hardwired in, plus the rear camera that plugs into the front unit via cabling running along the headlining.
I fitted this myself, and was very easy (there's another thread somewhere with pictures).
I don't have any issue with DAB interference.

The nextbase hardwire kit does include a ferrite core (aka choke) which is there to suppress interference from the cabling.
This can make a big difference.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
@jimbobjoe how much of the headlining and trim did you have to remove to avoid the airbags?
How easy is it to remove the trim and does it just pop out?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
I had a bit of time this afternoon so decided to see how hard it could be to route the dash cam to the rear - it was easier than I thought.

I popped off the A-pillar and the weather proofing rubber strip and routed the cables behind the airbag. The front cable is easy to route to the 12v socket or hardwire. The rear cable continued in the gap under rubber all the way to the back of the car. I decided to get the cable under the clips - that was a bit fiddly but means the rubber strip won't bulge.

From the top of the rear door, I was able to tuck the cable behind the trim and then through the rear wiper water jet piping and then finally to the window.

Popping off the A-pillar was easy enough although I didn't fully remove it. The trim on the boot lid and roof lining were both easy to pop out and removing the rubber weather strip was also easy.

All in I think it took about an hour to do.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top