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Discussion Starter · #281 ·
I


Same setting here but I've had the warning twice both when a car ahead slowed suddenly to turn off. The car doesn't anticipate the other car moving away before you get to that point, understandably. The warning is quite last minute but the emergency stop that follows (I deliberately didn't brake once knowing the car ahead would be gone) is very effective! Works well I believe but wouldn't deliberately test it by driving into a stationary car or traffic jam as no such system is 100% effective. It is a driver aid only.
But did you have SCC operating at the time? I’ve seen that effect exactly as you described but I believe it was SCC related and not FCA. Peter.
 

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But did you have SCC operating at the time? I’ve seen that effect exactly as you described but I believe it was SCC related and not FCA. Peter.
No, normal driving at least on the recent emergency stop case. I do use SCC a lot but had not switched it on at that point as I had myself just come onto the road from a junction. So lowish speed at the time (maybe 25mph accelerating gently into a 30 zone).

Took foot off the accelerator as the warning sounded (same noise as when applying the handbrake while rolling in neutral) and then the car stopped on a pinhead.

Not surprised it is the same action as SCC uses.
 

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I’ve tried deliberately not braking until the very last minute just to see if it works, but zilch.
I have not had the courage to do this. But it has crossed my mind...

Good to hear it has worked for ARBev, both warning and breaking!
Perhaps I’d be hearing the warning if I would use the SCC less. I might give that a go, just to hear the warning once. I would be satisfied with that, I don’t need to experience the breaking part.
 

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Has anyone witnessed a true FCA emergency self stop?

Peter
I’ve had it happen to me once. LKA tried to steer me back into a parked car at the last minute and the FCA kicked in. Aggressive braking is an understatement.

Equal parts worrying and impressive that the car almost caused an accident and avoid it in one manoeuvre.
 

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Discussion Starter · #285 ·
I’ve had it happen to me once. LKA tried to steer me back into a parked car at the last minute and the FCA kicked in. Aggressive braking is an understatement.

Equal parts worrying and impressive that the car almost caused an accident and avoid it in one manoeuvre.
LKA is the very essence of the devil. If I could physically remove it I would. I can steer my own car quite well thank you. How can a car possibly know better than me where to point it? How long will it be before it actually does cause an accident? Frankly, I can’t understand how it is even legal, let alone considered to be a 'safety feature'. Don’t car makers have to get these things independently tested before being allowed to incorporate them? Given its own way LKA would have put me in the ditch or up the kerb, many times by now.

I’m now wondering if my FCA is even working at all. I wonder if I got a big lightweight styrene sheet box and covered the front in aluminium foil, then drove right at it, at 10mph would that be a valid test?

Whilst we’re on such stuff, WTF is the driver attention setting thing (or whatever it’s called). What does it actually do and how? What value should I set it at?
Peter
 

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Just waiting for my eniro 4+ to arrive, due in 2 weeks and cant wait...

I still have slight range anxiety, how many miles do people generally get out of the car at motorway driving, ie 70 to 80 mph 😉

Also does the kia tell you if a charger is in use or available or does it just tell you the closest one but have no idea if it's available or not

Thank you
 

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@prawlin The driver attention measures if you're driving smoothly and if it thinks you are straying too much it gives a little warning with a mug of coffee icon on the display in front of the steering suggesting you take a break. I was playing with the feeling of the steering on an empty road shortly after I got the car (August 2020) and it thought I was dozing off! I have set it to least sensitive since.
 

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I would keep it to 70mph for economy, you don't save that much time at 80mph anyway. My collection trip was 186 miles arrived back with 62 showing that was all motorway and dual carriageway, temp 10 degrees and dry
 

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We have found that driving over 60 decreases efficiency, and the faster you go over that the bigger the decrease. This is not at all surprising since wind resistance (drag) is notionally the square of velocity.
 

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Just waiting for my eniro 4+ to arrive, due in 2 weeks and cant wait...

I still have slight range anxiety, how many miles do people generally get out of the car at motorway driving, ie 70 to 80 mph 😉

Also does the kia tell you if a charger is in use or available or does it just tell you the closest one but have no idea if it's available or not

Thank you
With cruise control set at 75mph (i.e. true 70-ish) you're looking at 3.6-3.8 miles/kWh in summer and 3-3.2 miles/kWh in winter, and everything in between. Let's say you plan to charge at 20% (allowing for Plan B), that's (summer) just shy of 200 miles from 100% (i.e. time for a pee) or about 145 miles from an 80% en route rapid charge (i.e. not quite time for another pee). Use ZapMap for chargers.
 

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LKA is the very essence of the devil. If I could physically remove it I would. I can steer my own car quite well thank you. How can a car possibly know better than me where to point it? How long will it be before it actually does cause an accident? Frankly, I can’t understand how it is even legal, let alone considered to be a 'safety feature'. Don’t car makers have to get these things independently tested before being allowed to incorporate them? Given its own way LKA would have put me in the ditch or up the kerb, many times by now.

I’m now wondering if my FCA is even working at all. I wonder if I got a big lightweight styrene sheet box and covered the front in aluminium foil, then drove right at it, at 10mph would that be a valid test?

Whilst we’re on such stuff, WTF is the driver attention setting thing (or whatever it’s called). What does it actually do and how? What value should I set it at?
Peter
LKA off, AUTO HOLD on = part of start-up drill! (+ regen 0 for me).
 

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We have found that driving over 60 decreases efficiency, and the faster you go over that the bigger the decrease. This is not at all surprising since wind resistance (drag) is notionally the square of velocity.
And the power required to overcome drag goes up by the cube. In summer, just to keep rolling takes about 14.5kW at true 60mph, about 19kW at true 70mph and 25kW at 80mph. These figures go up by around 20% in winter, with the denser air and colder, stiffer tyres, and that has a knock-on effect of less regen and higher electrical currents (I²R losses), compounded by higher resistance in a colder battery - a quadruple whammy for EVs, resulting in around 30% higher energy consumption in winter on average. Cabin heat (after initial blast) is negligible in the grand scheme of things.
 

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I would keep it to 70mph for economy, you don't save that much time at 80mph anyway. My collection trip was 186 miles arrived back with 62 showing that was all motorway and dual carriageway, temp 10 degrees and dry
We have found that driving over 60 decreases efficiency, and the faster you go over that the bigger the decrease. This is not at all surprising since wind resistance (drag) is notionally the square of velocity.
The most sensible thing to do is work out if your planned route requires a charging stop based on conditions and distance. Borderline cases might benefit from reducing speed. For example:
  1. No stop needed (< 220 mi). Most time-efficient to drive at the speed limit since you can make it on a single charge regardless.
  2. Stop might be needed (220-260 mi). Most time-efficient to drive at the speed limit if you want to stop anyway (e.g. for food/toilet) and charge whilst stopped. If not stopping, most time-efficient to drive at 60 instead of 70 to avoid a charge.
  3. Stop always needed (> 260 mi). Most time-efficient to drive at the speed limit since you'll need to charge regardless. Driving at 70 then charging for 20 mins will be more time efficient than driving at 60 and charging for 15 mins, for example.
The range brackets obviously depend on a lot of factors.
 

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Has anyone witnessed a true FCA emergency self stop?

Peter
A pedestrian crossed behind parked cars from right to left when I was doing about 15mph, he cleared most of the road in jogging pace but the car hammered on the brakes just as he passed the front left of the car so it doesnt just throw out radar straight ahead. I certainly felt that! Good to know it does the job though.

SCC can be pretty sensitive to cars ahead turning left as well even when the road ahead is clear, I've had a couple of hard reductions in speed due to it on 40mph roads and it did make me reconsider using it if the car behind isn't leaving adequate distance
 

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Discussion Starter · #295 · (Edited)
Thanks for the FCA replies. Based on that report I’m wondering if it doesn’t actually use the radar but maybe the front parking sensors. I know their range is very limited, but from all the accounts here it seems to not kick in until the very last fraction of a second. Or maybe it uses both but with the radar for higher speed/distance sensing but at low speeds or distance using the front ultrasonic parking sensors? I’ve suggested this before but nobody seemed to agree.
As it’s not happened to me yet, I still feel I need to test it somehow anyway 🤔

RE the SCC, yes I’ve had that effect when the car in front turns left. I’ve also had it where I’m also turning left following the car in front, but then part way around the SCC suddenly applied quite strong unexpected acceleration power. I suppose we should not really be using SCC in such complex situations but I just thought I would mention it anyway. Mostly SCC gets stuff right but just now and again it gets it horribly wrong. The driver has to be fully ready to intervene quickly, at any time.
Peter
 

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Thanks for the FCA replies. Based on that report I’m wondering if it doesn’t actually use the radar but maybe the front parking sensors.
That would make a lot of sense in terms of my pedestrian encounter as he was at a diagonal and very close. I've had the front collision warning go off at a greater distance when driving around a bend and the lane splits into two, with a car waiting to turn right but no action from the brakes. Maybe speed comes into play, don't think we'd have a great outcome with brakes coming on at 30mph with 4 feet to go.

Yes, so who's going to test these theories? 😉
 

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I had one instance where I was driving along a country road, stuck behind a couple of cyclists, but well back, and when the road ahead was clear to overtake them as I accelerated and steered right to overtake them, the FCA (I assume) thought I was aiming straight for them and slammed on the brakes. Luckily there was nothing behind me, but it was like the car had suddenly dropped anchor. Very unnerving. Could have ended up quite badly if there had been anything behind me.
 

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I would keep it to 70mph for economy, you don't save that much time at 80mph anyway. My collection trip was 186 miles arrived back with 62 showing that was all motorway and dual carriageway, temp 10 degrees and dry
Thanks and how many miles did you have at start of journey as that feels a lot, if I have read it right you did 186 miles and still had 62 to go so over 240 mile range which feels very impressive at 70 mph
 

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The GOM was showing 268 when I started and 62 when I arrived home after driving 186, so I think you can reckon on 250 real world range at 70mph in medium temperature dry conditions. YMMV :LOL:
 
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