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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

In this colder weather, use of the heater is needed but absolutely sinks the remaining miles.

In an ICE car, the engine warms up, the car sucks air through the engine and blows it out as hot. There's the heater matrix and keeping the coolant cold etc, but that is roughly it. The heat would otherwise be wasted if not used to heat the car's cabin.

When running on battery, there aren't any hot bits for the air to come past so the car has to rely solely on an electric heater, which requires a lot of power.

Turning on the heat drops my range by 4-5 miles. Imagine how much energy it takes to move a tonne of metal with a couple of people in it for 5 miles.

So, what's the best way to do it? Does the flow into the heater change or does it keep the same heater as when on battery? In the cold go onto Save Battery and let the petrol engine warm up and use that heat to warm the car?

As it stands, I use the heater only to clear the windscreen and use the heated seats and a pair of gloves to keep myself warm. But I am starting to get complaints from my passengers.

Any ideas? I'd love to hear what others think.
 

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Um, Well dunno about yours, sorry. My BM hybrid - some bits might be similar. Summer indicated range about 23M. Aircon on, drops indicated range by 2M but real range by about 1, never tried the heater in summer. Winter indicated range about 17M. Heating on makes no difference to indicated range whatsoever, but real range is only only 14M.

As you have a hybrid where losing a few miles won't leave you stranded, I'd forget about eking out the last mile or so, freezing your passengers and wearing gloves. Bonkers. Do a pre-condition to warm the car before you leave, and stop worrying about it.
 

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Same for me, but no heated seats! If its not too cold I will switch the heater off when running on pure electric and then back on for the higher speed part of my commute when the ICE is running. Sad I know..........
 

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I would pre-con while charging ... so that when you disconnect from the charger, you don't start from 0 .. afterward, depending on situation, I could turn it off completely or let it run ..
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Um, Well dunno about yours, sorry. My BM hybrid - some bits might be similar. Summer indicated range about 23M. Aircon on, drops indicated range by 2M but real range by about 1, never tried the heater in summer. Winter indicated range about 17M. Heating on makes no difference to indicated range whatsoever, but real range is only only 14M.

As you have a hybrid where losing a few miles won't leave you stranded, I'd forget about eking out the last mile or so, freezing your passengers and wearing gloves. Bonkers. Do a pre-condition to warm the car before you leave, and stop worrying about it.
Sounds easy, but if I can eke it out, I can make the return journey to work without charging. I don't want petrol to be part of my daily routine so I try to be as efficient as possible. I also don't have my own driveway so have to park next door neighbour's driveway and run a cable out my window to charge.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Same for me, but no heated seats! If its not too cold I will switch the heater off when running on pure electric and then back on for the higher speed part of my commute when the ICE is running. Sad I know..........
I don't think that is sad at all. Glad that you are thinking like me.

As I said, I suspect the heat from ICE is free, whereas on battery it is extremely resource intensive. I am motivated to use as much battery and as little petrol as possible. So while driving round in a mobile sauna in this weather sounds quite pleasant, I would rather have an extra four miles on battery.

I say suspect about as I wonder if when running on ICE, the car might use the same battery method to provide the heat, and not draw air through the ICE, thereby preventing the battery charging.
 

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.... I don't want petrol to be part of my daily routine so I try to be as efficient as possible. ...
So why have a hybrid instead of a reasonably long-range BEV at the same price, charge up using public charge. Sorry this makes no sense (to me). But what do I know.
 

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I sure am glad we drive BEV, have never had to be concerned about climate/heater use, leave it set at 21C and just drive!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So why have a hybrid instead of a reasonably long-range BEV at the same price, charge up using public charge. Sorry this makes no sense (to me). But what do I know.
I guess it was all about the deal I got for a lease on the 225xe. It wasn’t my intention to move to battery, but to get a good lease deal.

And in any case, the range of the car is much exaggerated everywhere you look in publicity materials. I was surprised that the battery runs out so soon, and that external temperature and heater / aircon use have such a massive impact.
 

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I would have had an EV but the driving I have to do does not suit one. I drive for 100 to 200 mile to a town for work and 70% of them do not have central charging stations or if they do there may be one or two that tend to be broken or in use. Spending 3 to 4 hours driving each way then having to stop for 30/40 mins to charge (assuming the chargers work) each way is not for me.
I do expect though that my next car will be fully electric.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
When driving on ICE with battery charge and I turn the heater on, the electric distance remaining takes a knock of four miles immediately and then loses some as I drive.

however, looking at the battery %meter, it remains static during the same conditions.
 

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I haven't researched this fully so am open to correction but my understanding of the 225Xe (I drive one too) is that the car uses an auxiliary heater to heat the ICE coolant electrically, for all intents and purposes an immersion heater . This is why you can gain range by pre conditioning while plugged in. If you are not charging at home then you should run the car in save battery mode for the first couple of miles to get the engine up to temp and then switch over to max e-drive.
It's admirable that you are trying to eke the last few miles from battery range but it is nonsensical to do it at the expense of warmth (and for me, being able to see out of the car!).
The reality is that a large % of electrical generation comes from fossil fuels. Right now, on a good wind day, the UK grid is showing 49% renewable, 26% Nuclear, so that leaves 25% from coal, gas and biomass(which burns gas).
BEV merely displaces the emissions from the car to the power station.
Your car has a reasonably efficient petrol engine which generates heat has a waste product. You need to go somewhere and you need to stay warm (and be able to see out the window!).
Running on battery you are using a good chunk of your available energy carrying that potential heat generating engine around with you as dead weight anyway. So put it to use in the most efficient manner for yourself.

And don't take any crap from the the BEV zealots about your choice of a PHEV. There is no difference between carrying around around 300kg of unused battery capacity in the back than an unused ICE in the front on a 12 mile commute.
 

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Had a quick play to see if I could confirm the theory that the electric heater warmed up the coolant. Left this morning in my 225xe at 1 degree with max edrive enabled. Got cabin heat very quickly as normal, but the coolant temperature gauge didn't move off the bottom stop. If it is heating the coolant (And I think that is a nice technical solution) then perhaps its restricted to just a small portion of it, not the entire coolant circuit.
 

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Had a quick play to see if I could confirm the theory that the electric heater warmed up the coolant. Left this morning in my 225xe at 1 degree with max edrive enabled. Got cabin heat very quickly as normal, but the coolant temperature gauge didn't move off the bottom stop. If it is heating the coolant (And I think that is a nice technical solution) then perhaps its restricted to just a small portion of it, not the entire coolant circuit.
Nice trial Hooky.

I don't know, I was judging from the diagram in a parts manual on realoem. Maybe there's an isolator valve for running on electric, there may be a three way valve in the second diagram below which would mean that it is only heating the coolant in the heater matrix and not the engine.
I must have a play with it to see if there are different warm up times if you pre condition or not.
125501
 

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I did check how it look like
40mph, cruise control, flat long road,
20°C outside, temp set up on 20°C, AC off, about 11-13kwh/100km
20°C outside, temp set up on 20°C, AC on, about 15-17kwh/100km
3°C outside, temp set up on 18°C, AC on, about 27-29kwh/100km
So, over twice as higher consumption during a winter compared to summer.
 
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