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Discussion Starter #21
It is frowned upon by a lot of people on some forums , especially by people who think whenever you have these messages come up that the first thing you should do is take it (or get it towed) to a main dealer for further investigation - also it could be a thing that breaks warrant offered (if the find out you have done it/removed it 馃槈)

you can see where some forums are coming from , they dont want members to say "you told me to do this and now the car is worse and its properly broke my car now!" - or angry at the forum member for suggesting such a thing. Thats why you most probably dont find much information , plus a lot of end users may be frightened of trying something outside the box too. - i dont blame people. My wife has a Renault Clio mk4 , I have a Zoe - for the past year I have been programming and enabling stuff on her car. I am aware that things can go wrong .. I am also aware that if something has gone wrong I only have myself to blame and I know I would have to put it right. No-one holds a gun to my head and forces me to do stuff or attempt to repair it - if I feel brave I do it. If it cures faults or enables something that wasnt enabled before and saves me having to leave it back to the main dealer i will try it first. If it works then its win win and saved me money and if it goes wrong next time I might have a fair idea what the problem is and where to go straight to it and if someone else having a similar problem can give any advice I can to them if I can to help them out .

But I also understand a lot of people are not as brave/wreckless/foolish as me and its out of their depth or want to go to a main dealer to get it looked at instead of trying to tackle it themselves and possibly making matters worse.

So , yes where was I? , yes a lot of the reasons you dont find too much on the internet is because (officially) there is not a lot the end user can do (is supposed to do) on their cars these days (especially with these ECU's fitted in cars) and that a lot of the time you are required to take your car to the garage/main dealer and have it hooked up to a machine to diagnose anything these days.
I like doing stuff myself even though I am not expert. Haven't decided yet with the main fuze. Part of it was because I could not find it :p In Norway we have the driving seat on the left so it might be on the right side I suppose. Did not look to closely as I was heading out.

I "like" tampering and my guarantee is expired so I don't mind any comments etc.. as long as I don't risk completely ruining the car. Shouldn't think so as it is a fuze and mechanics turn it off as part of their job. Or am I missing some vital car risk her (beside the risk of serious personal injury!)
 

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Renault Zoe Intens 2013
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I like doing stuff myself even though I am not expert. Haven't decided yet with the main fuze. Part of it was because I could not find it :p In Norway we have the driving seat on the left so it might be on the right side I suppose. Did not look to closely as I was heading out.

I "like" tampering and my guarantee is expired so I don't mind any comments etc.. as long as I don't risk completely ruining the car. Shouldn't think so as it is a fuze and mechanics turn it off as part of their job. Or am I missing some vital car risk her (beside the risk of serious personal injury!)
yep never thought about the differences - mine is a right hand drive you see. lift both front mats you will see which one has the door underneath :)

I like having a bash myself too - been like it over the years on all my cars (all previous been ICE combustion engines - I am new to EV , just got my Zoe in July this year) I have saved a rake load of money fixing my cars in the past myself and not sending them straight into the dealers to get repaired - but not only that, the jubilation if I have fixed something myself is enormous as well as saving money - plus it interests me as well and something of a hobby.

Yes, risk of 380v DC lockout , I can only think if something is not right there could be sparks, huge sparks at that voltage (and high amperage i reckon) so hence the high voltage insulate gloves , and a visor just in case it sparks and makes you go blind with the flash or the sparks go into the eyes! - wouldnt like to be removing the fuse in damp or humid conditions or with wet hands so another vote for 500vDC or whatever it is rubber gloves they use.

I suppose you never know what could happen - risks with everything- could get run over crossing the road or a person could have a heart attack driving log the road and mount the pavement! , you never know whats around the corner do you these days.

Im no expert (thats maybe why I should not be giving any advice?) but the way I see it if you turn off everything (take the car out of ready mode) turn off everything electrical (lights, heater , wipers everything) and then disconnect the 12v battery and shut down the ecu's that are responsible to get the car to a 'ready' state then wait for about 20mins for everything to die down (power drain out) - I cannot really see why that big orange lockout switch (or fuse) would spark when you remove it because there shouldnt be an 380v dc power going through it at all ... but as I say i am not an expert and I could be totally wrong .

sure all you can do is soak up as much information as you can ... and then make the biggest decision of all whether to enact on all that information or not at the end of the day.
 

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MG EZS 2020
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In Norway we have the driving seat on the left so it might be on the right side I suppose.
My UK model had the safety fuse under my feet on the right hand side of the car. Renault didn't move the fuse box to make way for a bigger glove box, so I would assume that yours is also on the right, on your passenger side. Be careful with the cover, I have had the 'stop danger etc.' twice with first Zoe, it's threads are in this forum, and when the 'engineer' put it back he broke the tabs underneath and it wobbled under my feet until I sold it.

I had mine fixed under warranty, the car was less the a year old, and I asked how much the repair would have cost me not under warranty - - - - - 拢2500 :eek::eek::eek::eek::sick:
 
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Discussion Starter #24
yep never thought about the differences - mine is a right hand drive you see. lift both front mats you will see which one has the door underneath :)

I like having a bash myself too - been like it over the years on all my cars (all previous been ICE combustion engines - I am new to EV , just got my Zoe in July this year) I have saved a rake load of money fixing my cars in the past myself and not sending them straight into the dealers to get repaired - but not only that, the jubilation if I have fixed something myself is enormous as well as saving money - plus it interests me as well and something of a hobby.

Yes, risk of 380v DC lockout , I can only think if something is not right there could be sparks, huge sparks at that voltage (and high amperage i reckon) so hence the high voltage insulate gloves , and a visor just in case it sparks and makes you go blind with the flash or the sparks go into the eyes! - wouldnt like to be removing the fuse in damp or humid conditions or with wet hands so another vote for 500vDC or whatever it is rubber gloves they use.

I suppose you never know what could happen - risks with everything- could get run over crossing the road or a person could have a heart attack driving log the road and mount the pavement! , you never know whats around the corner do you these days.

Im no expert (thats maybe why I should not be giving any advice?) but the way I see it if you turn off everything (take the car out of ready mode) turn off everything electrical (lights, heater , wipers everything) and then disconnect the 12v battery and shut down the ecu's that are responsible to get the car to a 'ready' state then wait for about 20mins for everything to die down (power drain out) - I cannot really see why that big orange lockout switch (or fuse) would spark when you remove it because there shouldnt be an 380v dc power going through it at all ... but as I say i am not an expert and I could be totally wrong .

sure all you can do is soak up as much information as you can ... and then make the biggest decision of all whether to enact on all that information or not at the end of the day.
Should be interesting! I'll report back how the problem is fixed (if fixable). Hopefully by DIY. Having a look now at the main fuze. My dad is an electrician so I am not going in completely naive at least! Would love to fix this without the need of spending thousands the dealership.

If I manage to fix it I'll give it a proper service and sell it. Been a bit to much with this car.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
My UK model had the safety fuse under my feet on the right hand side of the car. Renault didn't move the fuse box to make way for a bigger glove box, so I would assume that yours is also on the right, on your passenger side. Be careful with the cover, I have had the 'stop danger etc.' twice with first Zoe, it's threads are in this forum, and when the 'engineer' put it back he broke the tabs underneath and it wobbled under my feet until I sold it.

I had mine fixed under warranty, the car was less the a year old, and I asked how much the repair would have cost me not under warranty - - - - - 拢2500 :eek::eek::eek::eek::sick:
Happy you got it on warranty. Rates in Norway are about GBP 140 per hour minimum + spare parts. We get 5 years warranty - mine ran out 2 months ago :-/
 

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We get 5 years warranty - mine ran out 2 months ago
Isn't always the way. :mad: :mad:

This has been a perennial fault with the early Zoe. They should really meet some of the cost to repair. Do you know if this has happened before to this car (to another owner) it's such a common fault. It's happened twice to me. (part of why I have the MG now :whistle: )

Hope the complete shut down does the trick.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Isn't always the way. :mad: :mad:

This has been a perennial fault with the early Zoe. They should really meet some of the cost to repair. Do you know if this has happened before to this car (to another owner) it's such a common fault. It's happened twice to me. (part of why I have the MG now :whistle: )

Hope the complete shut down does the trick.
No information from previous owner and since he followed all service intervals it seems unlikely that he had this exact fault.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
In case anyone wondered, this is the very siiliar to the sound my car makes. Sad to read the comment that it was fixed with a new engine.


Strange though that there are no warning lights concerning the engine itself...
 

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Co-author of CanZE. Q210 nov 2013
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Hah. No need to remove the HV disconnect for THAT. I have been told if the VSP is powered up without being connected to it's CANbus (the E-CANbus), it will make continuous noise, though I do not know if it's the "normal" slow driving noise". But it's a fair bet: loose connector, or broken wire, or defective device. See the link @Mo1 posted to it's exact location.

You could pull it's connector, protect it and be done with it. The only other thing you will loose the keyless locking whoop whoop. But there are many threads here with erm, interesting viewpoints on VSP usage / sabotage. Since I DO have an opinion about it I will refrain further comments as to not feed that again. But I probably already have. Sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Got it "working". Meaning that it starts and everything works except two things: speed is limited and error message Electric Failure DANGER still present.

Tested another 12v as well with same issue so problem not with battery. Maybe a fuze.

A bit encouraging at least! Any ideas where to go from here? Or is a diagnostic at the dealership unavoidable at this point?
(y)

was it on passenger side on yours?

how are the metal prongs on yours? are they nice and clean or pitted or scorched where it may have sparked at sometime EandT ?

- mine was when I pulled mine out on my car :(
It was on the passenger side (right). Very easy to remove. Used some gloves and tools to take some precautions but no sparks or sounds when removing or reinserting.

It seemed in good shape. Didn't look specifically for damages but did not see any wear and tear. Looked brand new.

Now what's next is the question. A lot more optimistic so a proper diagnostic at the dealership might be the only way forward. Will keep searching online to see if there are any suggested solutions, but I'm suspecting there could be an issue with a wire or a fuze somewhere.

Gonna check with a diagnostic tool myself today, but it's a rather cheap one so not sure if it will give me any information all.
 

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error message Electric Failure DANGER still present.
That has to be cleared by an engineer. My daughter has had her's service by a non-Renault garage (where the renter sent her!) Had an error message on return from the garage (not sure which one, but it said not to drive the car, but the car was okay to drive anyway.) and it had to go to a Renault garage to get it cleared.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
That has to be cleared by an engineer. My daughter has had her's service by a non-Renault garage (where the renter sent her!) Had an error message on return from the garage (not sure which one, but it said not to drive the car, but the car was okay to drive anyway.) and it had to go to a Renault garage to get it cleared.
Agreed. Thank you for the information!
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Hm. Latest development is flickering interior lights and external lights.
 

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Hm. Latest development is flickering interior lights and external lights.
wow - your going through it indeed . is the flickering lights a new thing now is it along with the electric failure and noise under the bonnet yes?
 

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Renault ZOE R135 ZE50 GTLine July 2020 (Sold: R90 ZE40 i Dynamic Nav June 2017)
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Two more possibilities to consider:

1) The 'pulse unit' which is somehow responsible for maintaining the health of the 12V battery. I think it is located in the area you are getting a sound from. They have been known to fail. We had to have ours changed on a R90 ZE40 under warranty.

2) The DC/DC converter (in the PEC module on the R models and PEB on the Q models). Both are a block in the engine stack. This generates DC to charge the 12V battery and I could imaging a fault leading to flickering of lights. Bit of a long shot though.
 

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I suspect you have a dodgy connection on one of the interlocks on the HV cables. Mine flickered a few times with the warning but went away, then a month or so later just packed up whilst driving. The dealership took all the HV cables out to check, found nothing, put it all back together and it has worked fine for over a year now.

Do you have an ODB2 dongle to read the codes? CANZE is your friend here.
Any interlock or loss of comms codes could be an indicator of dodgy wiring . As you have pulled the isolator I'd guess you'd be OK to then disconnect the HV cables to have a look. Safety first of course.
 
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