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The GX3h has no electric heater which will mean running the ICE during the 10 mile commute in winter to keep warm and demist. Is it realistic to ask Mitsubishi if they could fit one, or perhaps there is another solution
 

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My company has been asked about this on the Outlander before. Happy to sort something if you have no luck with Mitsubishi. :)
 

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The GX3h has no electric heater which will mean running the ICE during the 10 mile commute in winter to keep warm and demist. Is it realistic to ask Mitsubishi if they could fit one, or perhaps there is another solution
The engine won't be doing much more than idling, and should shut down once the engine coolant is warm enough (it'll then cycle on and off as needed). You should still be getting close to 100mpg at this time so I wouldn't worry too much about it!
 

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Hi group, I'm new here. I had the nightmare GX3h !
The GX3 engine is NOT at tickover when demisting or heating, it has to do some work to warm up, it is running a charge into the battery using pump petrol, denying you the chance to charge from the mains. It consumes about a gallon of petrol an hour !! It does not cut out until you switch off the demister AND it has got the cabin up to its pre-set temperature. It does NOT heat up the water and cut out. In traffic in the rain, even when warm, you can easily be running 20mpg for the demister alone PLUS the battery charge.
Oh, you can't cheat by using the aircon to demist, you'll never guess why ?? yep, engine driven........
In cool or wet conditions you must be prepared for 20mpg and a battery range of maybe 40 miles. By my reckoning you're talking about over 30p per mile in EV mode instead of the 4p. A lot cheaper when not in EV mode. The ICE is a very poor water heater, the hot water is the byproduct of the engine, the product of a four stroke engine's inefficiency.
 

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The obvious answer is to retrofit an electric heater and/or air conditioner - These are readily available for converted vehicles.
 

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Done 15 miles including some motorway, this AM with the heater on, starting fully charged. Result 52.8 mpg and about two thirds charge left. The rain is heavy and the roads are very wet. I'd say this is ok mpg for a 4WD in the wet but if I had the electric heater it would it have been EV only? How are GX4h drivers getting on with the heater?
 

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Done 15 miles including some motorway, this AM with the heater on, starting fully charged. Result 52.8 mpg and about two thirds charge left. The rain is heavy and the roads are very wet. I'd say this is ok mpg for a 4WD in the wet but if I had the electric heater it would it have been EV only? How are GX4h drivers getting on with the heater?
Intriguing, so that implies a range of 45 miles on electric ? Although some of that is presumably courtesy of the engine charging the batteries ?
 

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Interesting. It's actually warm and sunny in the west of Scotland, as always :cool::p. But we did have a couple of cold days last week. One morning, with the outside temp about 3°C, I left for work with 8 miles on the EV range - enough to get me into town for my free charge :D But with the heater and demist on, the ICE ran for about half the time (i.e. about 15 minutes out of 30), and I arrived at work with 6 miles range left (I have GX4h). Bit disappointed with that tbh but looking forward to experimenting to reduce ICE vs EV ratio...:eek:
 

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The Berlingo ELectrique had a Webasto Water heater, as used in a lot of cars. They are available as Petrol or diesel, and on 40 miles a day in the depths of winter 7 ltrs (thats all the tank held) would heat the van for around ten days. Be careful which model you look at, the Thermotop c is good but later ones found on Jags and VWs are Can controlled. Used ones can be got for aroung £50 to £200, but make sure you get the correct fuel pump. They have different delivery amounts per operation stroke of the pump. If anyone is interested I have a petrol one and a remote ebbersbacher fuel tank. It just goes into the heater or bypass hose.Only requires a 12v supply and hey presto toasty car.
They were also used in Diesel Freelanders and Diesel Rover 75.
You have to have a free smace for the exhaust, which souns a bit like a small doodelbug, they are really effecient as you can put your hand over the exhaust and its only just warm. Cooler than most car exhausts.
 

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Interesting. It's actually warm and sunny in the west of Scotland, as always :cool::p. But we did have a couple of cold days last week. One morning, with the outside temp about 3°C, I left for work with 8 miles on the EV range - enough to get me into town for my free charge :D But with the heater and demist on, the ICE ran for about half the time (i.e. about 15 minutes out of 30), and I arrived at work with 6 miles range left (I have GX4h). Bit disappointed with that tbh but looking forward to experimenting to reduce ICE vs EV ratio...:eek:
That's a bit frustrating !
So there is no heating option that doesn't use the ICE .... Kind of kills the EV efficiency in the colder months then ? Arriving having used only a small part of the battery, and using petrol kind of defeats the point doesn't it ?
Don't get me wrong, the range drain on the Ampera when it uses the electric resistance heating is incredible, but it would drive me nuts if it ran the ICE instead !
 

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That's a bit frustrating !
So there is no heating option that doesn't use the ICE .... Kind of kills the EV efficiency in the colder months then ? Arriving having used only a small part of the battery, and using petrol kind of defeats the point doesn't it ?
Don't get me wrong, the range drain on the Ampera when it uses the electric resistance heating is incredible, but it would drive me nuts if it ran the ICE instead !
Word has it that running the pre-heat makes a big difference in the ICE running time when cold, but I have yet to confirm this :p
 

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Preheating the Ampera helps and as long as you're not in tshirt/shorts then by the time you are getting cold it may he ICE time anyway.

The issue is more that you have to run the blower/ac/heater to stop the windscreen misting up.
 
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Heating uses a lot of power, The Webasto is a 5kw device, I have electric MES dea heaters (but not up to 400v) these are 4kw, with a car using around 300w per mile one hour if heating (its not running at full 4kw all the while) will take 8 to 12 miles off your range. Its best if the car can preheat on mains power while plugged in charging. To make life more bearable in my Smart conversion, in the depths of winter I resorted to using a 750w Ceramic heater running on mains for 20 mins before I set off. At least the fabric of the car is warmed up, and using the main electric heater is more effective.
On the C1s that I support, they have the original water heater matrix and 4kw MES dea water heaters that do fail, and are not servicable. Worse still, these are no longer available and so I make a complete replacement unit that goes into the place of the interior heater matrix, and is a 2kw PTC device (So no glowing element) this is faster to heat up, does as effective a job as the water heater but consumes half the power. Its also possible to have a better heat control as it can be turned on and off, a water system is not so readily controlable. PTC (Positive Temperature Coeffecient Thermistor) have the advantage of being self regulating so dont get over hot. As the temp rises the devices resistance increases, temp goes down current flows, temp goes up current reduces, so if you have lots of airflow the heat is produced, if you cut down airflow they cant overheat. Neat use of these devices. And down to how you design the heater unit.
Many new ICE vehicles use a PTC heater as well as the car water system to heat the interior, so allowing virtually instant interior heat without the need for the ICE to heat up. In colder climates this makes a useful hit on the fuel consumption, as drivers dont have to idle for some time before driving off, so reducing emmisions and increasing fuel effeciency.
 

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My old Disco-3 had what Land Rover called a 'fuel burning heater', which I understood to be a heating device that is designed specifically to burn fuel to produce heat, whereas using the ICE, heat is a by product. This would kick in automatically on colder mornings to preheat the car (and, I believe, on later models could be controlled by timer or remote app). It seems odd to me that Mitsubishi didn't include something like this, at least in cars shipped to colder climates. I can only presume it was a balance between carrying the additional weight 24/7 compared to the savings available.

I've noticed that when ICE runs to produce heat, it also provides some charge to the batteries, presumably on the thinking that if it's running it might as well generate some electricity. But as the car is usually fully charged when the heating is needed the value of this is surely very limited.
 

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on the gx4h, the electric heater hit the range hard and it's not even very cold yet. At least there's heated seats at the front and can pre-heat the car when it's still plugged. There's plenty of solutions but there was an imperative to keep the Outlander out of premium SUV price range. Mitsu doesn't have the brand image to sell cars in the £45 to £50k range and no amount of technical cleverness can change that in a hurry.
 

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Hi group, I'm new here. I had the nightmare GX3h !
The GX3 engine is NOT at tickover when demisting or heating, it has to do some work to warm up, it is running a charge into the battery using pump petrol, denying you the chance to charge from the mains. It consumes about a gallon of petrol an hour !! It does not cut out until you switch off the demister AND it has got the cabin up to its pre-set temperature. It does NOT heat up the water and cut out. In traffic in the rain, even when warm, you can easily be running 20mpg for the demister alone PLUS the battery charge.
Oh, you can't cheat by using the aircon to demist, you'll never guess why ?? yep, engine driven........
In cool or wet conditions you must be prepared for 20mpg and a battery range of maybe 40 miles. By my reckoning you're talking about over 30p per mile in EV mode instead of the 4p. A lot cheaper when not in EV mode. The ICE is a very poor water heater, the hot water is the byproduct of the engine, the product of a four stroke engine's inefficiency.
That is not good news and is quite a big negative for the Outlander PHEV.
 
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