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Just trying to work out the cost of a journey.

The MGs battery capacity is 44kW (140miles)
For simplicity, my daytime electric is 15p pkWh and nighttime 10p per kWh
In this weather, I'm averaging 3miles/kWh.

So would I be right in thinking that at the if charged at the day rate, the car is costing 5p per mile driven?
 

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@smithgt So you'll see pretty quickly why the Octopus Go tariff at 5p/kWh is really popular on this forum (despite the hassles of joining).
 
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The Octopus Go tariff is attractive but I can't help feeling that smart meters will eventually be (ab)used by HMRC to tax home EV charging. I'm holding onto my non smart meter indefinitely.
 

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The Octopus Go tariff is attractive but I can't help feeling that smart meters will eventually be (ab)used by HMRC to tax home EV charging. I'm holding onto my non smart meter indefinitely.
I'd imagine someone coming up with some sort of 7kw temporary charger would make a killing...
 

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The Octopus Go tariff is attractive but I can't help feeling that smart meters will eventually be (ab)used by HMRC to tax home EV charging. I'm holding onto my non smart meter indefinitely.
Not sure that smart meters provide information on what you used your electricity for. It might be the chargers with sim cards that would allow tax to be collected.
 

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The Octopus Go tariff is attractive but I can't help feeling that smart meters will eventually be (ab)used by HMRC to tax home EV charging. I'm holding onto my non smart meter indefinitely.
If that does happen (it's a big if) then you either won't be allowed to keep your non-smart meter or you'll find you have to pay more for not having a smart meter. While you're waiting you'll be paying 2 - 3x more than you need to charge your car at home. It's your choice.
 

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Broadly speaking, yes.

You may lose around 10% in charging losses on top.
It would be interesting to know if the KW put in by charge point or the one in the car is before or after losses.
Meaning, should we add 10% more electricity to the reading to work out a more accurate cost of filling up?
 

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It would be interesting to know if the KW put in by charge point or the one in the car is before or after losses.
Meaning, should we add 10% more electricity to the reading to work out a more accurate cost of filling up?
In our case, there's an actual electricity meter immediately before the charging unit so of course I get a direct reading of kWh purchased.

Hard to believe a 'smart' charger would be able to work out the amount by which battery had increased. Surely that must be different for particular models and the charger will be available for you to plug in any car.
 
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