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Discussion Starter #1
I'm currently looking at getting my first EV, I have a budget of around £10000 and a daily commute / use of around 20-35 miles (95% of my driving will be on slower A roads so hoping that the range would actually be higher than normal..) I'm in the midlands and go on days out to Leicester, Sheffield etc (about 70 mile round trips) I do around 10000 miles per year. So I've been looking at the 24kWh's and have seen a 2015 (65) Acenta at a franchise dealer for £8500 (Inc the first two services). It has full service history looks in nice condition and has done 53k miles. I'd be looking to keep it for 3 years then look to maybe getting the 40kWh version. I've been sent the battery report that Nissan perform and it has full 5 stars except for the following:

Charging -> Frequent Use Of Quick Charging -> 4 Stars
Storage -> Long Term Parking with high state of health -> 4 Stars

I've asked and apparently they don't provide an actual state of health like Leafspy (They must know this themselves surely??) It still has 12 bars, I'm just concerned (of course) about the battery, the last thing I want is to lose a bar straight away! Would you suggest I get a OBDII dongle and run Leafspy on it, if so can anyone recommend one that will work from Amazon and will the standard version give me enough information or would I need the Pro version?

Any thoughts or advice would be much appreciated. Cheers!
 

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It's worth getting LeafSpy data if you can, but don't be misled by the 3 sig figs it gives you for SOH - my 24kwh Leaf has gone up from 93% to 102% in the 9 months I've had it, which is clearly a load of old rubbish.

That said, it should still be useful for interpreting the batt health report - that first bar maps to a bigger SOH range than the rest.

This ODB works for me, but it's showing as unavailable: Panlong Bluetooth OBD2 Car Diagnostic Scanner Reader ELM 327 Check Engine Light for Android - Work with Torque Pro/Lite: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike
 

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It's not possible for everyone, but if you can, I think I would definitely suggest trying to stretch to a 30kWh LEAF. You're going to get better range and faster rapid charging which will help out if you ever do want to take it further afield, not to mention making them 70 mile round trips easier. Especially if you are already talking about upgrading in 3 years time.

Buying a bigger battery now means you should be able to stick with the one car for longer, and make degradation of the battery much less of a concern.

As for LeafSpy, I definitely recommend investing in the OBD Dongle. Especially if you are sure you are going to go on to buy a LEAF if it handy to have throughout your ownership. The free version is enough to show you what you need to see, but the pro app will unlock some other features that can be quite convenient to have. The information provided by Nissan is just as vague as looking at the number of battery health bars on the dash. It gives you a good rough idea when you look on Autotrader to see if its worth your time to go down there to view in person or not, but not a good enough indication of if it is worth parting with your money for or not, in my opinion.

I'm unfortunately not the best person to recommend a dongle. I bought one myself and while I thought it was the right one, it didn't work and I ended up being given one that did work by a friend when he sold his LEAF instead.
 

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Hi, I was in a very similar position in December and ended up buying a 2016 leaf 24kwh with 33,000 miles on the clock and an SOH of about 94%.

I bought a Carista odb dongle from Amazon and it works well. I started with the free version of leafspy and that gave me the SOH of the battery.

I do a daily 30 mile trip which can use 40-55% of the battery, depending on conditions and how I drive. I think it's worth treating official range figures like you would the official mpg figures. There fine for comparing cars but disappoint in real world conditions. Unless you can charge mid trip, I think your 70 mile journey would be a struggle on a wet winter day.

Hope this helps
 

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A 70 mile return trip in winter is a tall order. If you can get a charge at your destination - even a partial one - you'll be safer. I agree with others who suggest looking for a 30kWh model. I have a 24kWh Tekna and have been surprised by how much winter use suffers from poor range. It is possible, but marginal.
 

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I agree as above. For your daily commute it's perfect. For the 70 mile round trip you will only make it in perfect summer conditions, and even then it depends on number of people in the car, terrain, driving style, etc.... My 54 mile round trip commute is touch & go in cold wet conditions.
Either accept that you will need to use your ICE car for anything longer than your commute or hold out for a 30kWh.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the advice and information. Looks like I need to get the OBDII adaptor :)

One other thing, the dealer sent a picture of the speedo showing 32 miles on the gom at 45% charge.. by my calculations that would give a range reading of 80 miles? The efficiency for the current range was 4.3 m/kWh so that's not too low... as the gom from what I've seen so far tends to be optimistic, I'd have expected it to be a bit higher on a 45% charge? Or could the cold temp affect this?
 

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My efficiency in a south of England winter in a quite hilly district is around 3.1 I have not had it long enough to experience summertime efficiency though.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the advice and information. Looks like I need to get the OBDII adaptor :)

One other thing, the dealer sent a picture of the speedo showing 32 miles on the gom at 45% charge.. by my calculations that would give a range reading of 80 miles? The efficiency for the current range was 4.3 m/kWh so that's not too low... as the gom from what I've seen so far tends to be optimistic, I'd have expected it to be a bit higher on a 45% charge? Or could the cold temp affect this?
127975
 

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Hi sputnik

The gom is referred to as the guessometer for a reason. I've driven the same 30 mile trip for over 1000 miles and it still over estimates the range. It cannot be trusted.

Also, the efficiency meter in the photo can be reset, and then the car can be driven carefully, downhill, with a tail wind, etc to give a misleading reading. It cannot be trusted either.

...and.... The battery health indicator on the dashboard with 12 bars does not split battery health equally between the bars. The first bar covers 15% and the rest, about 7-8% each. So battery health can drop down to 86% and battery health indicator still shows all bars. Hope this makes sense.

Also, the cold will affect the range, but doesn't appear to affect the gom.

But it is a great car and leafspy allows us to access more info than the manufacturer wants us to have.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hi sputnik

The gom is referred to as the guessometer for a reason. I've driven the same 30 mile trip for over 1000 miles and it still over estimates the range. It cannot be trusted.

Also, the efficiency meter in the photo can be reset, and then the car can be driven carefully, downhill, with a tail wind, etc to give a misleading reading. It cannot be trusted either.

...and.... The battery health indicator on the dashboard with 12 bars does not split battery health equally between the bars. The first bar covers 15% and the rest, about 7-8% each. So battery health can drop down to 86% and battery health indicator still shows all bars. Hope this makes sense.

Also, the cold will affect the range, but doesn't appear to affect the gom.

But it is a great car and leafspy allows us to access more info than the manufacturer wants us to have.
Hi,

Yeah that is helpful, I was aware that the first bar represented a bigger (15%) portion and this is my worry which is what I've tried explaining to the dealer, I really don't want to buy a car that could literally drop to 11 bars as I'm driving off the forecourt.. they've said I could plug a dongl;e in but would be held responsible for any damage that might be caused (gulp..)

And again, that's my point about the guess-o-meter.. if it often over estimates range, doesn't that make the current range of 32 miles on a 45% charge look... well, worrying? Or am I being hyper critical about things...

I've been following the EV train for a few years now, really wanting to jump on, this is the first time I've really had the chance, now that seemingly good cars have come into my price range, I'd love to run it for 2-3 years (I'm sure within that time it would drop to 11 bars, I can live with that) and then start to make my way up the EV tree, and hopefully by then, the more longer range EV's will have also fallen into my price range (Zoe 40's, ZS EV, Leaf 40's), well that's the idea at least :)
 

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One other thing, the dealer sent a picture of the speedo showing 32 miles on the gom at 45% charge.. by my calculations that would give a range reading of 80 miles?
For my 13Reg 24kWh Leaf which has lost one battery bar, my GOM can indicate 80 miles when I have charged to 100%, but in recent weather dividing the miles driven by the %SOC used gives a figure of just over 0.6 miles/%SOC, or a 100-0% range of around 60 miles [but don't ever plan going down below 10%, which would give a range of about 54 miles]. It will get better with warmer weather.

For your 70 mile round trips you will need to be able to charge either at your destination (a couple of hours on a 13A socket will suffice), or somewhere along your route. Take a look at Zap-Map for the charging points along each route. Make sure you have both the 'granny lead' [the one with the 13A plug] and a Type 2 to Type 1 lead [for use at destination chargers] included in the deal
 

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Discussion Starter #15
For my 13Reg 24kWh Leaf which has lost one battery bar, my GOM can indicate 80 miles when I have charged to 100%, but in recent weather dividing the miles driven by the %SOC used gives a figure of just over 0.6 miles/%SOC, or a 100-0% range of around 60 miles [but don't ever plan going down below 10%, which would give a range of about 54 miles]. It will get better with warmer weather.

For your 70 mile round trips you will need to be able to charge either at your destination (a couple of hours on a 13A socket will suffice), or somewhere along your route. Take a look at Zap-Map for the charging points along each route. Make sure you have both the 'granny lead' [the one with the 13A plug] and a Type 2 to Type 1 lead [for use at destination chargers] included in the deal
All great advice again. For the longer journeys (Day's out etc) going from Nottingham to Sheffield and back for instance, I'd just call at the services and charge for 20 mins on the way back, unless I can charge wherever it is we've gone.

I've also been told to check there's an SD card and would the dealer update the maps (If they're able to?) on a 2015 car?
 

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All great advice again. For the longer journeys (Day's out etc) going from Nottingham to Sheffield and back for instance, I'd just call at the services and charge for 20 mins on the way back, unless I can charge wherever it is we've gone.

I've also been told to check there's an SD card and would the dealer update the maps (If they're able to?) on a 2015 car?
The chargers at the service stations along the motorway network aren't the most reliable things in the world. Try your best to charge at the destination instead, or at the very least have a plan B for charging if you find it isn't working. It's one of the reasons why I suggested trying to stretch to a 30kWh in my earlier post.

Check for a SD card because otherwise the infotainment system won't work properly. Even the date, time, stored radio stations and volume preferences are saved on the SD card as well as the maps. Don't bother asking for the update though. There's nothing especially recent, and the navigation is pretty poor compared to your phone with Google maps.

As for things to look out for, make sure you're getting at least one charging cable with it, and that it doesn't appear to be damaged, and rated for fast enough charging to keep up with the car's onboard charger (3.3kW=16 Amp cable, 6.6kW charger=32 Amp cable - This should generally be printed on the wire itself)

Other thing I suggest watching (listening) out for when test driving is rattles while driving along especially if you're the sort of person who would get annoyed by that. Somewhat common sources of rattle on these models are the steering wheel, driver's seat, and the foot operated lever for the parking brake when fully released.
 

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A 70 mile return trip in winter is a tall order.
I did 67 mile return trip in Jan at about 3-4 degrees C in my 24kw 2014 Leaf. Admittedly it was all A roads and a lot of it in stop start on Beco. At that point I had 96% SoH according to LeafSpy and still had 14% charge left.
127998
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I did 67 mile return trip in Jan at about 3-4 degrees C in my 24kw 2014 Leaf. Admittedly it was all A roads and a lot of it in stop start on Beco. At that point I had 96% SoH according to LeafSpy and still had 14% charge left. View attachment 127998
Wow.. 96% SOH, that's incredible for a 2014.. How many miles does it have & how long have you had it?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The chargers at the service stations along the motorway network aren't the most reliable things in the world. Try your best to charge at the destination instead, or at the very least have a plan B for charging if you find it isn't working. It's one of the reasons why I suggested trying to stretch to a 30kWh in my earlier post.

Check for a SD card because otherwise the infotainment system won't work properly. Even the date, time, stored radio stations and volume preferences are saved on the SD card as well as the maps. Don't bother asking for the update though. There's nothing especially recent, and the navigation is pretty poor compared to your phone with Google maps.

As for things to look out for, make sure you're getting at least one charging cable with it, and that it doesn't appear to be damaged, and rated for fast enough charging to keep up with the car's onboard charger (3.3kW=16 Amp cable, 6.6kW charger=32 Amp cable - This should generally be printed on the wire itself)

Other thing I suggest watching (listening) out for when test driving is rattles while driving along especially if you're the sort of person who would get annoyed by that. Somewhat common sources of rattle on these models are the steering wheel, driver's seat, and the foot operated lever for the parking brake when fully released.
About the mapping / entertainment system, I know they changed it in the 2016 model and it included a DAB radio, did the interface system change also?
 

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Wow.. 96% SOH, that's incredible for a 2014.. How many miles does it have & how long have you had it?
About 2 months and now on 37,400 - the previous owner only ever granny charged it overnight then did a 60 commute then rinse repeat for 4 years. Must admit was quite surprised myself that't what LeafSPy reported. Its now 92% but I have not been exactly consistent with my charging behaviour!
 
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