Speak EV - Electric Car Forums banner

181 - 200 of 240 Posts

·
Ampera aka IGOR
Joined
·
3,394 Posts
If I need to use my rear fog I always switch it off as soon as someone comes close enough behind me so they are not blinded. Then I switch it back on, if needed, when there is no traffic immediately behind.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
942 Posts
Rear fogs in any sort of rain are a real menace, especially for motorcyclists.
I have noted that so called rear "fog lights" are only required in very severe weather such as thick fog or torrential rain on motorways, normal roads in moderate weather we get for 363 days of the year certainly do not need them.
You are a very considerate man @h8ten - I bet you don't sit at lights with your foot on the brake either ;)
If I need to use my rear fog I always switch it off as soon as someone comes close enough behind me so they are not blinded. Then I switch it back on, if needed, when there is no traffic immediately behind.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
283 Posts
I've just 'upgraded' to these bulbs
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B072JBZZ39/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(though the 9012 fitment seems to be out of stock now).

I have to say a lighting upgrade was on my 'to do' list even before I bought the car! However following fitting there is a rather loud audible clunk when selecting full beam. I know the design utilities a mechanical flap so wonder if perhaps some of the bulb or (more likely) the wiring is fouling the mechanism. I tried to pull the wiring out as much as I could but the noise remains. The full beam does engage and disengage as expected.

I guess I'll have to refit in the morning with natural light - but if anyone has had a similar experience the info will be valuable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,437 Posts
A clunk is to be expected, as the dip mechanism lowers a mechanical shutter cutting off 1/2 the light from the one and only filament. It's always been there, but maybe you're removed the rear plastic cover thingy, and more sound is now escaping from inside the headlamp enclosure so you're only now noticing it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
283 Posts
I think your correct.

Hard to believe a plastic cover can have such an insulating effect on the sound as I never noticed the sound before. I'm now trying to determine if I need the canbus modules that came with the lights (I assmed I did) but it's those bulky things that cannot fit in the space with the factory cover on. The lights say on them they can accept a 12v input so the modules seem to be necessary only to keep canbus monitoring happy, but didn't want to risk installing without initially.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
283 Posts
So I removed the can-bus adaptors and the OEM covers now fit over the entire LED bulb assembly including the fan-less heat-sink. It means I get a warning after about 5 minutes driving with the headlights on, but can simply press the 'back' button and message disappears. I think it's a better option to have the warning than to attempt to make watertight a rubber gasket with holes for 2x cables (power to the can-bus & power back to the bulb).

This is assuming the can-bus doesn't 'mind' missing bulbs (i.e. be damaged over time) - I can't really see why it would 'mind' though - it's just a bit of code.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,065 Posts
The very badly described "CAN Bus" when discussing car lighting is simply the way the car communicates between numerous modules, some of which will be used to switch lights on and off that also monitor the current flow of each lamp and flag up one that is low.
The adaptor you mention will be a resistor that increases the current to fool the current monitoring. A lower current shouldn't cause any ongoing problem although a cheap HID or LED lamp certainly can

"Can Bus" friendly HID's and LED's though will be designed so that their circuits do not cause errors on the comms, generally from poor circuit design which can be very electrically noisy. This can corrupt the messaging and even upset the operation of car components. Not to be taken lightly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
283 Posts
Whilst I accept anything poorly designed may interfere with electronics, surely there isnt much that could be wrong in an LED bulb. Obviously there must be something to alter the voltage to work on 12v but nothing else required surely.
I can't understand why a resistor would need such a bulky box either - why not integrate it either in the bulb or harness -and before anyone blames the poor quality of these bulbs - most LED bulbs seem to use a separate box.

If anyone has any photos of a good solution to sealing the headlight unit with these cables it would be useful - but I don't think any solution will be as moisture proof as the OEM covers. I'd hate the enclosure to mist up which might result from lack of proper covers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,065 Posts
HID's and LED's use a switching power supply that may or may not be noisy electrically.
I personally would recommend that any adaptors are installed as they may also filter the wiring so that any noise does not reach the car wiring.

The resistor will generate a bit of heat (10 - 20 watts) so does need to be sized to allow for this.

I believe you can purchase replacement rubber headlight seals from Ebay etc as others have done. The HID's I have used always came with grommets on the wiring that sealed the hole required to be cut in the seal. Places like Ebay and even B&Q sell grommets.
 
  • Like
Reactions: HandyAndy

·
Registered
Joined
·
283 Posts
I did actually get a set of rubber seals from Amazon, but thought best to just use original seals and put up with the error. But from what your saying I think my next project will be to make the rubber seals I have anyway as moisture resistant as possible with the adapters and benefit from the noise filtering you say would likely be a benefit. I guess using the grommets that came with your HID's you didn't suffer from any condensation in the unit or you wouldn't be so pleased with them! So hopefully a rubber seal will be similarly effective.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
One of my original Phillips recently expired so had to get something new - looked at the 2018 legislation on LED/HID and decided not to go that route for now - let's not start another debate on that.

With the price of the Phillips being so high I thought I would take a punt on these:

2x HIR2 9012 PX22D 55W 12V Super White Xenon Upgrade Headlight Bulbs Set | eBay

The beam pattern is slightly different but these are definitely no worse than the originals and possibly a bit better and the colour more closely matches the side lights. Kerb lighting seems to be better. Long distance high beam just as rubbish. Not sure how long they will last but for £5 a bulb it's worth a shot. Hope this may help others or provide a source of emergency spares.

(the originals may have had reduced light due to age as may have been the ones that came with the car ???)

Nick
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
283 Posts
One of my original Phillips recently expired so had to get something new - looked at the 2018 legislation on LED/HID and decided not to go that route for now - let's not start another debate on that.

With the price of the Phillips being so high I thought I would take a punt on these:

2x HIR2 9012 PX22D 55W 12V Super White Xenon Upgrade Headlight Bulbs Set | eBay

The beam pattern is slightly different but these are definitely no worse than the originals and possibly a bit better and the colour more closely matches the side lights. Kerb lighting seems to be better. Long distance high beam just as rubbish. Not sure how long they will last but for £5 a bulb it's worth a shot. Hope this may help others or provide a source of emergency spares.

(the originals may have had reduced light due to age as may have been the ones that came with the car ???)

Nick
Any chance of a picture? I love the colour of my LED's but to be honest they aren't really producing any more visible light than the OEM bulbs. If the colour of your filament bulbs is white enough I might send the LED's back (though I try to avoid sending things back). Certainly a lot cheaper than Osram Cool Blue bulbs at £50 a set!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,065 Posts
Such a shame that this car has been saddled with such a poor headlight assembly. These shouldn't have even made it to the parts bin they must have come from. What were they thinking?

I drove my partners 2010 mini over the weekend and a proper set of headlights was something to behold. I could see in the distance on main, something even my HID's can't do.
 

·
Ampera aka IGOR
Joined
·
3,394 Posts
I have just bought a pair of these from Powerbulbs. I bit of a mistake as I was buying bulbs for another car that came in pairs and these are priced singly. It was only when the box arrived that I noticed, just about to call to say I was missing a bulb and then a big oops. Anyway, I have them now so when I get a chance I will fit them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
637 Posts
They were thinking about range, for a normal car you have dipped 55w + main 55w x 2 = 220w so 4 hrs of night driving is 10% of your HV battery range, whereas for the ampera it's only 5%
The other issue is the projector reflectors they seem to spread the light all over the palce.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,437 Posts
Range issue makes sense. My 2 LEDs draw 48W, so 4 hrs night driving would be 2.5% of range. But I'm on petrol before 1 hour, so it's peanuts saved really. I'd rather have better lighting than a couple of hundred metres range!

Not sure I agree 100% about the projector reflectors - I'd say they scatter light all over the place, but only inside a restricted cone-shape in front of you. Rather like the main beam on my Mk3 Golf - that had a similar projector lens, which shone a lighthouse-style beam 5 miles down an autobahn, but was bl**dy dangerous & useless in our country lanes. That car had to go. And it did.

What they fail to do is shine at angles off to the left & right which is what you need for verges & sharp corners & lanes.

So the LEDs I fitted are an improvement, in that the larger filament-size means even more scattering, so the verges start to get something at last, and the mechanical shutter means I still have super-sharp cut-off on dip. Better than Osrams, but not really good enough.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,065 Posts
They were thinking about range, for a normal car you have dipped 55w + main 55w x 2 = 220w so 4 hrs of night driving is 10% of your HV battery range, whereas for the ampera it's only 5%
The other issue is the projector reflectors they seem to spread the light all over the place.
Fag paper maths below: -

1 hour at 220W = 0.22kWh lost from the traction pack.

As the Ampera battery is good for around 50 miles max or one to two hours of EV driving, I doubt that decent headlights would impact on range at all.

If HIDs were used, the power is only around 33W per lamp anyway.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Just been talking to some MOT testers and it MAY be possible that headlamp conversions of the type spoken about here could now be an MOT failure because they are not original and do not conform to type approval standards. Basically, under the new MOT rules they have to be genuine bulbs, or if fitted with Xenon or LED lamps then headlamp wash system is required.
Will be interesting to get reports from members on their MOT success in the coming months.
 

·
The best there is at what I do
Joined
·
10,652 Posts
Just been talking to some MOT testers and it MAY be possible that headlamp conversions of the type spoken about here could now be an MOT failure because they are not original and do not conform to type approval standards. Basically, under the new MOT rules they have to be genuine bulbs, or if fitted with Xenon or LED lamps then headlamp wash system is required.
Will be interesting to get reports from members on their MOT success in the coming months.
I expect a lot of people will just put the originals back in along with the correct number plates and the cats.;)
 
181 - 200 of 240 Posts
Top