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Discussion Starter #1
Dear All,

I thought I would share my experiences Kona life so far. I have had the car about 6 weeks and on the whole, really like it. The car is a 20-plate pre-reg and had about 50 miles on it when I took delivery (64kW Premium SE). It's my third EV (after a 22kW Zoe and 24Kw Leaf). The only problem I have had (until today) was having to reset the Bluelink on the car since it stopped talking to the server.

Today, I went to start it as normal and it would not start against a backdrop of lots of relay clicking and bongs, before being unresponsive. The SoC of the HV battery was about 58% last night. Back to today, I suspected a 12V battery and when the AA (Huyundai Assist's Recovery Partner) attended, the 12V battery was about 6V. The AA technician advised the battery was drawing about 4A without the 'ignition' on which was very high (the car had sat since 12 noon yesterday - about 19 hours). The AA technician checked their tablet and concluded a software update maybe outstanding. The car started after a short 12V charge and I drove to my nearest dealer for repair - where it currently is.

Having read some of the threads about issues I was dreading having to go to the dealer and it was fair to say the service technician who booked it it, really didn't inspire confidence. He didn't really seem to care and was disinterested in hearing the AA's actions to date - I'm not sure he understood the significance.

As an aside, I do have an OBDII reader and at the last full charge, the BMS SoC was 96.5% and Display SoC 100% so (100/96.5)*64 = 66.3kW which was a little less than I anticipated.

I know EV's are sensitive to the 12V battery but I really didn't expect it to be an issue so soon. I had assumed the car, received at end June 2020, would have had the BMS update since the menu made no reference to aux battery charging.

The car is still in and I'm awaiting an update so more to follow.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Was the boot fully closed? There has been some problem with this previously, and if the boot does not fully close it appears the car does not shut down completely.
Good point. I certainly don’t recall thinking the boot was open and on the Bluelink Apo, it said everything was closed and locked.
 

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Kona 2020 Premium SE 64kW
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I had exactly the same problem about a week after getting my brand new car (Described here) I strongly suspect the boot lid was the cause although I can't be sure, I certainly make sure these days that it's closed. I also keep a small Lipo battery booster in the boot just in case.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Dear all,

Thank you for your replies they are very useful. I will check the tailgate closing stops when I get the car back, but therein lies the problem.

I called my local dealer this afternoon to be told they will not even look at the car until the end of the week at the very earliest. I contacted Hyundai customer services to see what influence they could exert but so far, no reply. I even suggested taking it to a different dealer. I was offered a Thrifty petrol courtesy car but the insurance excess was such that I didn’t want to take it.

First experiences of a problem and having it fixed are not going too well really.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Has the car had the battery update done? After the update the 12v gets charged more often, and hopefully has solved the flat 12 problem.
Thanks, but I don’t know. I don’t remember seeing any reference to Aux Battery in the menu so assumed it had. Also, only had it 6 weeks so again assumed the dealer had done it. Mind you, since much of the protective plastic was still on the inside of the car, I don’t think they did much.
 

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. I will check the tailgate closing stops when I get the car back, but therein lies the problem.
My car I picked up last Friday does not have anything obvious around the 4 point areas ( vs a YouTube video I saw ), and at the moment 2 slams out of 5 are not hard enough to close it fully.
 

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I'd definitely recommend winding the stops fully in on the rear hatch and when you shut it, push it with your hands all the way closed - don't just let it slam. Make sure it's closed firmly after you've shut it.

I've had my 12V battery go flat about 5 times now and on at least two of those times, the rear hatch was mysteriously half-open when I later checked, even though I'm absolutely sure I'd closed it properly. I've also had weird behaviour where the rear hatch is stuck in between two worlds... pressing the boot release does nothing as one part of the car thinks it's closed, but it won't let you drive away without bonging lots because another part of the car thinks the boot's open! There is definitely a software or electronics problem around the rear hatch switch, and when something thinks that's open, it will simply drain your 12V battery flat as it won't let the car shut down properly.

A parallel issue is that until the latest BMS update, it simply didn't top up the 12V battery often enough (once per day for 10 minutes). It's now far more often (at least 4 times per day). Since having this update we've not had the 12V battery go flat and we almost paranoidly check the rear hatch each time we shut it.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the replies. Regarding the tailgate issue, am I correct therefore in thinking that even if Bluelink reports the tailgate is closed, it might not be and a ECU is still functioning somewhere draining the 12V battery?

133746
 

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Thanks for the replies. Regarding the tailgate issue, am I correct therefore in thinking that even if Bluelink reports the tailgate is closed, it might not be and a ECU is still functioning somewhere draining the 12V battery?

View attachment 133746
I have assumed if the Bluelink app is reporting closed - that's fine. I have checked this on my car and it reports correctly.
 

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I don't have Bluelink on my 2019 car but all I know is two things have differing views of whether the boot is closed or not. Schrodinger's Boot, I think!
 
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