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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone know where the canbus connector (not ODB-II port) is located on the 2014 Zoe?

Background:
I am looking to replace R-Link on this older car - does not really do much for me - it is the Radio, and a bluetooth streamer for podcasts and music. Stopped using the navigation years ago as there was an annoying beep every time I passed a speed camera, and the other "electric car" aspects of R-Link are not interesting.

CarPlay gives Waze navigation, radio, podcasts, but also access to electric car apps that will really help - like finding a charge point, paying for charging, finding parking, paying for parking (all accessible via the CarPlay interface - so its simple). It would bring the car's tech up-to-date.

There are options for aftermarket Android based full console replacements which are compatible with the Renault Zoe 2012-2018. By compatible, I mean a full console replacement in keeping with the Zoe - not some kind of frankenstein weekend project...

I picked up this:
www.aliexpress.com

339.4US $ 50% OFF|Carplay PX6 DSP Android 10.0 Car Radio Multimedia Video Player For Renault Clio 4 ZOE 2013 2019 GPS Navigation Auto Audio Stereo|Car Multimedia Player| - AliExpress
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
www.aliexpress.com
www.aliexpress.com

Its listed as: "Carplay PX6 DSP Android 10.0 Car Radio Multimedia Video Player For Renault Clio 4 ZOE 2013-2019 GPS Navigation Auto Audio Stereo"

A picture is included below.

Problem:
I have been messaging back and forth with the supplier and apparently the unit will want to connect to the canbus on the Zoe for installation. So it comes with a "3-way" canbus cable, which should be placed in line with the canbus. Photo example of cable below. I have tried forums, owners manuals, service manuals (that I could find - not complete and not purchased) to find this kind of connector. (I believe the ODB-II port is not sufficient).

The comment form the factory is the canbus connector required "is not in the central control position and should be under the co-pilot's armrest box"

Questions:
1) Does anyone know where a canbus connector like this may be found on the Zoe?
2) Anyone done change/upgrade before?!?

Many thanks,
TG
 

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Renault Zoe Intens Q210 22kw 2013
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would you not need a splitter cable like this ? - is it so you can control the radio using the SWRC (steering wheel control volume buttons)
off amazon

Light Font Cable Auto part Bicycle part


I thought the canbus was on the OBD port?
 

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In the older Renaults it was on the yellow radio display cable. Suggest you try Connects2 website and look for the model Clio with the same radio (mk5 I think) and see if they can help.


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Renault Zoe Intens Q210 22kw 2013
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In the older Renaults it was on the yellow radio display cable. Suggest you try Connects2 website and look for the model Clio with the same radio (mk5 I think) and see if they can help.


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Mk5 clio do not have same radio as zoe 2014 - Clio mk5 will have easylink or easy connect and 2014 zoe have r-link1
 

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Do you know your can activate AA on all older Zoes... works fine.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Thanks for the replies.

I have had more information from the supplier and received the unit (without any cables for the moment). If it works it will be nice as the screen is much bigger. I will post here with more information as I am still not entirely clear on the cabling (The picture in the advertisement showing pin-outs is different from the unit received) - I have more clear documentation on the cabling which I include here.

Looks like this will support steering wheel, back camera, radio, DAB, Carplay, TV (!), extra TV screens, GPS. Its got a map card slot and a sd-card slot. So there is a lot there. Just got to figure out how it all gets connected.

I think its gonna be wait for the cables to get here then once I know what I have, see how it can be put together and what needs shoring up... Stay tuned :)

If it works, it will be a nice win to have the car's nav and entertainment completely updated and good for 2022 - not bad for a 2014 reg...


TG

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Please do keep us posted! I’m very keen to do the same in my Zoe. The r-link 1 is increasingly becoming a lame duck…
 

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Guess you will loose the other info on battery status etc?


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Guess you will loose the other info on battery status etc?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Maybe, maybe not. These head units have a function to read the CANBUS data and they run Android… so there’s a possibility for installing CanZE too…
 

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Renault Zoe Intens Q210 22kw 2013
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I shall be following I do like the renault zoe specifics on the rlink though (bar the graphic of the aircon the animated car thats useless) and my r-link got way better after i enabled android auto on it (2013 ZE20)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Guess you will loose the other info on battery status etc?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I expect to loose all R-Link functionality (as it won't be there anymore :p). All to be replaced in other ways by new, up to date software, a much bigger screen, and CarPlay - giving access to the apps I need. Proper Navigation (Waze - no map updates needed and integrated with real-time traffic), DAB+, podcasts, PlugShare (Charge Points - updated) , Ringo (parking payment [London]), as well as access to weather, and video (um err). R-Link, even when it was new did not do all of these things (and none well then), and as it's 8 years, old does none of these things anymore.

I can navigate to where I need to go easily (three taps?), find a charge point and/or pay for parking - all from a big screen on the console - and while I'm traveling, listen to what I want including any podcast, radio, DAB station or my music.

So my big win is streaming audio from my home server - ALL my music, my playlists, and my radio stations from UK, France and USA. I'll be tuning into Live Jazz in New Orleans with three taps on the screen, talk radio from France, Test Match Special (but let's not talk about the Cricket...ahem) . All when I am on the South Circular in traffic in the cold rain.

For me, its a no-brainer...

The only things lost, as far as I can see (not really used R-Link properly - been using the smartphone) is Air con display, battery display, and some graphics. But I never really used those things - like the summery screen after driving somewhere - do you still use that??

  • Air Con? - use the physical controls
  • Battery information? - Add a WiFi OBD-II and see it all on CamZE in CarPlay - better than R-Link status ever was - could also be done by an app already on the device (That I will have to wait to see if it works)
  • Driving/Driver summery screen? - I will probably loose that - but I'm an excellent driver (Rain Man?) 😜.

Update - Received unit, looks good. Its mounted in a console like the one to be removed. Also supplied with the "back" of the console - i.e. "all the plastic" not just the surround for the facia. This is important as you loose the small, offset R-Link unit (offset by physical buttons). The extra rear piece allows you to remove the entire thing and once completed - its in keeping with the current console - Big screen, air con vents, air con/heating controls - all look as before.

Also received cable pack as well, but that is my issue -- can I get it hooked up? Documentation is not good or accurate. Supplied cables are probably wrong and its a bit of a rat's nest..

Positives - received the unit, it will fit and looks good - (like factory fit good), supplier is responsive to questions
Negatives - Documentation and cabling

I'll let you know how things go - and send some pictures...

TheGrish
 

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Tesla Model 3 LR AWD, Renault ZOE R135 ZE50 GTLine (Sold: R90 ZE40 i Dynamic Nav)
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How will you control things like scheduled charging. Or simply enabling / disabling charging?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
How will you control things like scheduled charging. Or simply enabling / disabling charging?
Hummm - If those are things - they will be lost too. Never used them before and did not know they were there! Perhaps this is due to not having a dual-rate meter - so was not looking for them. So time-shifted charging at home does not provide a savings for me. I just plug it in and charge it :).

Are these things important? I ask this as I was going to offset the upgrade cost by selling the R-Link1 head unit. They go for about £140 (and upwards) on ebay - which would help offset the cost of this upgrade - about £350 all in. Maybe I should keep the original bits to pass along when I eventually sell the car?

TheGrish
 

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Hummm - If those are things - they will be lost too. Never used them before and did not know they were there! Perhaps this is due to not having a dual-rate meter - so was not looking for them. So time-shifted charging at home does not provide a savings for me. I just plug it in and charge it :).

Are these things important? I ask this as I was going to offset the upgrade cost by selling the R-Link1 head unit. They go for about £140 (and upwards) on ebay - which would help offset the cost of this upgrade - about £350 all in. Maybe I should keep the original bits to pass along when I eventually sell the car?

TheGrish
The head unit isn't only used for AV and navigation purposes. It's also the main control interface for many aspects of the operation of the car. Things you might want to think about include (I'm assuming you're on R-Link, and don't have a ZE50):

Charging programming - you at least need to make sure that always on charging can't be switched to programmed charging.
Pre-conditioning programming ('Comfort timer').
Setting the language, sound, clock, warnings, units, status info, removing SD card.
The SD car is used to download updated maps, which you won't need, but I think it is also used to download some system updates, which you may.

See page GB.75 and GB.85 onward of the R-Link manual.

I'd really like to see you get this going, but I'd keep the old head unit until everything is fully operational.
 

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I expect to loose all R-Link functionality (as it won't be there anymore :p). All to be replaced in other ways by new, up to date software, a much bigger screen, and CarPlay - giving access to the apps I need. Proper Navigation (Waze - no map updates needed and integrated with real-time traffic), DAB+, podcasts, PlugShare (Charge Points - updated) , Ringo (parking payment [London]), as well as access to weather, and video (um err). R-Link, even when it was new did not do all of these things (and none well then), and as it's 8 years, old does none of these things anymore.

I can navigate to where I need to go easily (three taps?), find a charge point and/or pay for parking - all from a big screen on the console - and while I'm traveling, listen to what I want including any podcast, radio, DAB station or my music.

So my big win is streaming audio from my home server - ALL my music, my playlists, and my radio stations from UK, France and USA. I'll be tuning into Live Jazz in New Orleans with three taps on the screen, talk radio from France, Test Match Special (but let's not talk about the Cricket...ahem) . All when I am on the South Circular in traffic in the cold rain.

For me, its a no-brainer...

The only things lost, as far as I can see (not really used R-Link properly - been using the smartphone) is Air con display, battery display, and some graphics. But I never really used those things - like the summery screen after driving somewhere - do you still use that??

  • Air Con? - use the physical controls
  • Battery information? - Add a WiFi OBD-II and see it all on CamZE in CarPlay - better than R-Link status ever was - could also be done by an app already on the device (That I will have to wait to see if it works)
  • Driving/Driver summery screen? - I will probably loose that - but I'm an excellent driver (Rain Man?) 😜.

Update - Received unit, looks good. Its mounted in a console like the one to be removed. Also supplied with the "back" of the console - i.e. "all the plastic" not just the surround for the facia. This is important as you loose the small, offset R-Link unit (offset by physical buttons). The extra rear piece allows you to remove the entire thing and once completed - its in keeping with the current console - Big screen, air con vents, air con/heating controls - all look as before.

Also received cable pack as well, but that is my issue -- can I get it hooked up? Documentation is not good or accurate. Supplied cables are probably wrong and its a bit of a rat's nest..

Positives - received the unit, it will fit and looks good - (like factory fit good), supplier is responsive to questions
Negatives - Documentation and cabling

I'll let you know how things go - and send some pictures...

TheGrish
Hope you achieve it - if this is of any help here you will find the socket pinouts wiring for the sockets behind the r-link touch screen , and you most probably realise that the actual 'radio' is tucked way up in the dash somewhere and is not directly behind the touchscreen like in some cars they are.



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Might want to keep the original HU, if anything like when I did my e91 3 series, the HU does a bunch of the canbus aggregation and coms, and you couldn't just take it out, it was eventually mounted in the rear boot space of the car, a till on the canbus.

SSo make sure the car 'works' without the original HU in place, you may be surprised when it throws a whole bunch of codes and won't start.

Good luck though! Just thought I'd mention as went through it with the old BMW.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hope you achieve it - if this is of any help here you will find the socket pinouts wiring for the sockets behind the r-link touch screen , and you most probably realise that the actual 'radio' is tucked way up in the dash somewhere and is not directly behind the touchscreen like in some cars they are.
Hi Andy; This diagram is hugely helpful! Many thanks for passing it along! It answers a lot of questions and shows me it may actually be more straight-forward than I originally thought. Knowing that the Tomtom/R-Link is not also the radio helps too :). I was looking for the antenna cable but could not find it...

I've had the R-Link unit out from the car and include some pics below for those who have not seen the connections. There are 5 connectors to the back of the unit, 3 are USB connections (only 2 are used, I think the 3rd is the DAB radio option? I do not have Renault DAB), one is for the GPS antenna and the last is the 24-pin connector.

Glad to see that the 24-pin connector really has everything that is needed (power, speaker connections, microphone, camera and CAM information)

So these connections are solved:
1) I will take the FM antenna from the separate original radio as input to the new device for radio (AM/FM).
2) I will not use the GPS antenna (original) as there is a supplied GPS antenna and I would need to modify (cut-off) the plastic around the OEM antenna to get it to fit the new device (I'll give it a try, but am prepared to just run the new little "square-type" GPS antenna up to the dash and stick it there. Easier to put the R-Link back in future if required.)
3) I am adding a DAB+ receiver which is directly connected to the new unit and will connect to previously installed (by me) DAB antenna. (FYI DAB was not fit to this car as originally purchased and was added by me a few years ago)
4) The 24-pin connector goes into a new "loom-cable cluster" that the supplier provides - they are different for different car types. Knowing that this 24-pin has all the other bits that need to be connected (save for one - see below) solves a lot of the mystery so far.

Questions remaining:
1) Steering wheel buttons - where does the wiring for this turn up? Is this the 12-pin connector on the right side behind the ON/Off volume, up down and home buttons? Not sure. Still trying to figure out if I will loose steering wheel controls (the new unit supports them, just need to know how to hook 'em up...)
2) I will still need to get the new "loom cable cluster" hooked into the CANBUS. My original question :).

Is it the connector circled in this photo?

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design Bag Gas


Loom cluster cable is working its way to my door now. I am hoping that seeing what that actually looks like will help (fingers crossed).

Thanks,
TheGrish

For those of you following along who have not had your R-Link removed, here are some photos:
Back of R-Link unit:
Audio equipment Musical instrument accessory Automotive tire Machine Electronic instrument


With cables:
Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior


Cables that connect to R-Link Unit - removed so you can see what they pins look like:
Hood Automotive design Motor vehicle Automotive tire Gadget
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Might want to keep the original HU, if anything like when I did my e91 3 series, the HU does a bunch of the canbus aggregation and coms, and you couldn't just take it out, it was eventually mounted in the rear boot space of the car, a till on the canbus.

SSo make sure the car 'works' without the original HU in place, you may be surprised when it throws a whole bunch of codes and won't start.

Good luck though! Just thought I'd mention as went through it with the old BMW.
Very sound advice. Will do. Is there a canbus connector in/near the boot ;-) on a Zoe? There's no room in the glovebox even when its empty!
 
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