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I have a 66 plate and had a quick look to find no covers and water in the drivers side top mount. It only takes a few minutes to pop up the plastic trim and have a look.
That water comes from the brilliantly located drain hole in the driver side wiper spindle assembly that cleverly sends rainwater to cause a failure from rust over time. Incidentally, that same drain hole regularly gets blocked from tree debris causing water to overflow from the channel onto a module under the bonnet that can then fail. Double whammy.

The cure is to poke that drain hole clear from time to time and fit a cover over the strut top area to shed water away and down the interior wing to the ground. I used an upturned empty yoghurt pot that was a tight fit over the entire area and solved the strut problem cheaply and effectively. And as the drain hole is a bit difficult to locate I threaded a length of bell wire through and twisted it to stay there for next time the hole needed clearing out.
 

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I've just fitted the Golf Mk1 strut covers from here, Suspension Strut Top Mount Cover 17141235901C > Caddy , Golf Cabrio , Golf Mk1 | eBay - at £3.50 per side they were cheaper than the 3D printed ones at £15 each. An easy snug fit over the top of the strut.
I also discovered that the water wasn't draining away so attacked the area with an airline until it cleared and could then see where the drain hole is. The water flows freely out of the bottom of the wing now so hopefully that's avoided some problems in the future.
 

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Pull out the wheel arch liner and clear all the debris between the inner and outer wings at the rear corners. There are drain holes which can become blocked by all the debris washed down from the top, especially if you park under trees. I found a large stiff cable tie and a pressure washer (or a big hypodermic syringe full of water) soon cleared them without damaging the paint.
 

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30KW Tekna (2017)
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Pull out the wheel arch liner and clear all the debris between the inner and outer wings at the rear corners. There are drain holes which can become blocked by all the debris washed down from the top, especially if you park under trees. I found a large stiff cable tie and a pressure washer (or a big hypodermic syringe full of water) soon cleared them without damaging the paint.
any mor3 tips on how to do this for someone not that car savvy?
 

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Ok so after seeing my leafs drivers side mount still full of water I’m drying it today and fitting a yogurt pot cover.

There is a little rust on the nut, do I need to treat with anything to stop the rust as will it now keep rusting even though dry like ”metal cancer” or will a glob of grease and the cover stop further rust?
 

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There is a little rust on the nut, do I need to treat with anything to stop the rust as will it now keep rusting even though dry like ”metal cancer” or will a glob of grease and the cover stop further rust?
A good cleaning with a wire brush or small rotary wire brush in a drill to take away all loose rust - followed by a good covering of grease will be fine. The trick is to find a yoghurt pot that is a close push fit over the entire outer circular area. The caps that can be bought from 3D printers or VW caps don't do that. They just cover the inner area and then any rain dropping through that immaculately placed drain hole will still lodge in the entire outer assembly. I also jammed a suitably wedge-shaped piece of poly foam between the top of the yoghurt pot and the underside of the scuttle so that the pot couldn't shake loose during travel. On inspection a month later it hadn't moved and the area was still dry and grease protected.

As others have said, attention should also be given to the ultimate drain hole below the wing to make sure that the water is leaving the car as designed.
 

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A good cleaning with a wire brush or small rotary wire brush in a drill to take away all loose rust - followed by a good covering of grease will be fine. The trick is to find a yoghurt pot that is a close push fit over the entire outer circular area. The caps that can be bought from 3D printers or VW caps don't do that. They just cover the inner area and then any rain dropping through that immaculately placed drain hole will still lodge in the entire outer assembly. I also jammed a suitably wedge-shaped piece of poly foam between the top of the yoghurt pot and the underside of the scuttle so that the pot couldn't shake loose during travel. On inspection a month later it hadn't moved and the area was still dry and grease protected.

As others have said, attention should also be given to the ultimate drain hole below the wing to make sure that the water is leaving the car as designed.
Thanks for that! Today’s project then.....
 

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Thanks for this. Took a look at mine. They'd been given a shot of copper grease, but one was a puddle. Soaked up the moisture, gave them a good coating of chain wax and ordered a set of covers.
 

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That water comes from the brilliantly located drain hole in the driver side wiper spindle assembly that cleverly sends rainwater to cause a failure from rust over time. Incidentally, that same drain hole regularly gets blocked from tree debris causing water to overflow from the channel onto a module under the bonnet that can then fail. Double whammy.

The cure is to poke that drain hole clear from time to time and fit a cover over the strut top area to shed water away and down the interior wing to the ground. I used an upturned empty yoghurt pot that was a tight fit over the entire area and solved the strut problem cheaply and effectively. And as the drain hole is a bit difficult to locate I threaded a length of bell wire through and twisted it to stay there for next time the hole needed clearing out.
I have just looked at my wife's 64 plate Leaf and found the ubiquitous bird-bath full of water. Luckily for me I make beer at home and a bonus (apart from decent beer at very low prices) is that the plastic caps on the top of the cars of wort (see below) is almost exactly the correct size to cover the whole area. All that is needed is to trim out some tiny ribs from inside the caps and cut eight equally disposed slits in the 'skirt' of the caps to facilitate its clipping over the upstanding rim of the body pressing. I'll check them for position after a few runs and if they're still in place then I shall be a happy bunny!


Not the kit I use but the can is the same. 🍺
 

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Luckily for me, I make beer at home and a bonus (apart from decent beer at very low prices) is that the plastic caps on the top of the cans of wort (see below) is almost exactly the correct size to cover the whole area.
Why didn't I think of that? A much better source of aftermarket cover than my own yoghurt pots. Unless yoghurt can be used as a base ingredient to make beer that is.
 

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I suspect so.

Every early Leaf owner should obtain a yoghurt pot to fit upside down over the driver side suspension strut top. That will shed water from the drain hole in the driver side wiper mount to where it will do no damage. A good blob of grease in the strut top before fitting the pot would be a good idea too.

That drain hole was brilliantly designed by Nissan to fill that strut top with water every time it rains. And that then causes corrosion and lovely money in the til for repairs such as this. If inspection shows that the strut top is dry that simply means that the wiper spindle drain hole is blocked with sycamore seeds and misc crud and needs a good clean out.

Seriously Leaf 24 and 30 owners - do this zero cost mod right away. I'm not sure if this also affects the Leaf 40 but it's worth checking.
Yes same in the new 40 & 60 models
 

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There is a similar thread on the 40Kwh, where I posted this, so thought I would post here as well, it may help somebody.


I had an idea for a cheap, practical solution for a strut cover that I have used, so thought I would post and share.

Firstly you need 4 packs of Bostik Blue Tack (economy packs are a quid each at poundland)
Secondly a new plastic sandwich of freezer bag.

Open 2 packs of Blue Tack and remove the grease proof paper from one side only and slide into the plastic bag.

Now fold over the opening of the plastic bag and any other slack and Sellotape down well to made air tight.

Remove the struct cover and make sure that the strut recess that holds water is perfectly dry ( I used a cloth to dry it out and put the hairdryer on it to make sure)

Now slide the pack into the hole and position so that the middle of the pack is in the middle of the strut recess with the greaseproof paper side upper most. Now get your hand inside and using your fingers, form the pack well onto the strut recess and surrounding area.

Repeat for the other strut recess.

Once done, it won't move or rattle about and the water will drip onto the plastic bag and run away keeping the recess nice and dry. If access is needed it, easily pulls off, cheap effective solution.
 

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2017 Flame Red Leaf 30 Acenta
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Check both sides. Both mine on my 2017 were full of water. No rust on driver's side due to to some grease spread on there, tiny amount of rust on passenger side due to no grease.

Cleaned them up once the dry weather had dried them out. Then added enormous gobs of grease to both, pretty much filling the top of the mount and covering the nut. I had bought some covers from eBay as recommended by montehampster.

I don't care if they are porous as they only cost £12 for two and they are mostly there to keep crap out and grease in. I certainly don't buy the argument that they are porous to allow for condensation. As I fit them I blobbed a massive mountain of grease in the middle of the underside so that as I clicked them down into position there would be even more grease covering the top of the strut mount. They seem to click into place very firmly.

I'll check later on to see if they are porous. If need be I'll cut and shape some go faster gorilla tape to the top, make em shiny and water proof.

As those that have seen my other threads know I'm not the type to stress about stuff 😏 😂
 

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A wrap of Denso tape is the standard protection against rust for any metallic joints and exposed fasteners. As well as any poorly drained strut tops, a wrap around the steering rod end adjusters and ARB droplink fasteners mean that years later, everything is like new and adjusts/dismantles without any bother.
 

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Does anyone know if the Leaf shares these bearings with the juke?

Will it just be new bearings, or will it be the full topmount assembly?

The garage got back to me with a cost of £208 supplied and fitted, the parts are £128 inc VAT and I think are from the factory as the Nissan parts depot said there's a 2-3 day wait on them.
Since I do most of my own work I am repeatedly stunned by what most car owners have to pay for simple repairs.
So many repairs are simple but time-consuming and time is what the charges are for.
Many technicians know how to do short cuts so that they can make more money by flat rate instead of by the hour.
Instead of $150 to drain & fill the reduction gear, 2 US quarts of Nissan ATF are $25 at the dealer, less than anywhere online. Plus I have a half quart left.
 

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2017 Flame Red Leaf 30 Acenta
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Since I do most of my own work I am repeatedly stunned by what most car owners have to pay for simple repairs.
So many repairs are simple but time-consuming and time is what the charges are for.
Many technicians know how to do short cuts so that they can make more money by flat rate instead of by the hour.
Instead of $150 to drain & fill the reduction gear, 2 US quarts of Nissan ATF are $25 at the dealer, less than anywhere online. Plus I have a half quart left.
Post a how to!

Though I haven't read the warranty small print yet, I suspect there is some sort of catch that means you have to be serviced by the Nissan network to maintain it.
 
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