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Poor show, I say. What's the odds on the lifetime warranty including the charger? So pleased I have a DIY one to keep charging with, or I'd be limited to 10A with the one that lives in the boot.
GM wall charger dies after almost exactly 2 year's service.
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A device costing several hundred quid should last longer than two years whatever it happens to be....what do you plan to do Rick?
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I isolate mine when not in use. It does a self test sequence on switch on just like the one in the boot, except it doesn't any more - not a click or a twinkle. I checked power is getting to the main board and the two enormous fuses soldered in-line on the main board are not blown. Dead control unit I reckon. My Ampera team are trying to work out what an exchange board would cost. They hinted they might chip in a bit to help with the cost as I was one of their e-pioneers and it is only just expired warranty. I think it was counting the days! We shall see. I always have the option of converting the innards to the Mainpine controller I trust. Then I might add the solar tracking capability as well. It would make use of the coiled cable and holder, and I liked the built in light for plugging in after dark.
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It's good that they're open to a discount Rick. People fall into two camps regarding powering electrical things off and on don't they 
For many years now I've been in the 'leave it on' camp as long as only tiny amounts of power are consumed. This goes back to the early days of remote controls and 'standby' for hifi components and endless discussions in magazines about the pros and cons. Then the same discussions at work about computer and networking components. So I've always left my charger and EVSE plugged in and powered. I'm not sure there is any definitive research either way!
For many years now I've been in the 'leave it on' camp as long as only tiny amounts of power are consumed. This goes back to the early days of remote controls and 'standby' for hifi components and endless discussions in magazines about the pros and cons. Then the same discussions at work about computer and networking components. So I've always left my charger and EVSE plugged in and powered. I'm not sure there is any definitive research either way!
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Still in discussion with My Ampera regarding assistance. They have been much better than previously about keeping in touch with progress or even lack of it. I have costed the mainpine/contactor alternative innards and am now just waiting to exhaust Vauxhall's good will options before committing to circa £150 to do it all myself with reliable innards. I still don't have my own crimping tool so may be on the ear-hole for a loaner in September. I can't see this getting done before I go on my summer vacation for most of August.
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1,472 Posts
Well, I've been told that my whole charger unit will be replaced at Vauxhall's cost. Can't say fairer than that. If that blows after two more years a then I'll build new innards.
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2,904 Posts
Worth remembering/keeping up your sleeve that you are covered under EU regs for up to 6 years. Of course that would involve legal proceedings and a judge deciding that it would be fair to expect an item like that to last longer than 2 yrs...which I think they would, as long as it has had 'fair usage' ie not on 24/7.
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I wasn't aware of that, but maybe Vauxhall were ;-)
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I think after 2years service the sale of goods act would not be much use. The goods were arguably of merchantable quality and not faulty manufacture or mis-sold. There was an implicit expectation of longer service life, but I wouldn't go to court on grey areas like that. Giving Vauxhall good excuse to make it right has proven to be the right approach. I've always wanted to encourage them to value EV customers and not want to walk away from EVs in general. We have to be the most reasonable of their customers to keep them keen.
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1,472 Posts
Collected the replacement yesterday. The internals have been redesigned so original wall plate has different circuit board mounting posts. As the new base unit and curly cable does not have a lamp built into the plug, I decided to cobble the new board into the old housing by mounting with only two screws. It is static so won't matter. It works again, that's all that matters, and I have the illuminated plugging in back again. Result!
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Old and new designs ...
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Thanks for the pictures, that looks like a nasty piece of cheap kit.
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Seconded.
That foam seal doesn't look as though it makes it an IP66 case or even IP anything which is definitely required for anything with an uncoated PCB in it. Moisture will certainly get into that.
Must say it looks a bit breadboard and very much Chinese.
It shouldn't cost any more than around £100 as the parts cost far less.
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I have to say that there were no signs of moisture damage. Not totally sealed by any stretch of the imagination. Spiders making their home in there is proof of that.
I am fairly sure the control module developed an internal fault, and that is a resin block, so insufficient safety margin in the module circuit design is my bet. They do tend to last longer than mine did.
Now I have a new problem. I kept the original coiled cable and j1772 plug as it has a light in the tip. one something internal in that plug has worn to the point it is almost impossible to release the locking lug to unplug from the car by squeezing the trigger. I was thinking of filing down the latch so it barely locks, but then I wondered if the socket has a latch lug detection in it. Anyone know?
I have the new cable and plug unused to swap to if necessary, but I liked having the light in the end.
I am fairly sure the control module developed an internal fault, and that is a resin block, so insufficient safety margin in the module circuit design is my bet. They do tend to last longer than mine did.
Now I have a new problem. I kept the original coiled cable and j1772 plug as it has a light in the tip. one something internal in that plug has worn to the point it is almost impossible to release the locking lug to unplug from the car by squeezing the trigger. I was thinking of filing down the latch so it barely locks, but then I wondered if the socket has a latch lug detection in it. Anyone know?
I have the new cable and plug unused to swap to if necessary, but I liked having the light in the end.
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Odd circuit design of the original as the full load current has to pass by the control circuitry......hardly a safe way to do things. In one side and out the other.
At least the replacement keeps power wiring to one end.
The conventional method is to me far safer where a small contactor does the switching with control electronics in a separate module well away from mains voltages.
At least the replacement keeps power wiring to one end.
The conventional method is to me far safer where a small contactor does the switching with control electronics in a separate module well away from mains voltages.
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1,472 Posts
Couldn't agree more. It will end up being replaced with Mainpine controller and all din rail units on next failure.
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